New bottom bracket

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Stantheman

Senior Member
i have a new shimano un55 ready to install, I have the tools and have even taken the old one out and replaced as practice. My question, do I need to grease any thing or are there any other precautions I should take to ensues it is fitted correctly?

Cheers chaps.
 

ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Location
Rides Ti2
Grease the threads and also the cranks when fitting*.

*some people grease the cranks, some don't.
 

KneesUp

Guru
As @ianrauk says - grease the BB threads - it makes it easier to get in, and more importantly, possible to get it out again.

I expect people who don't grease the spindles before putting the cranks on go a seasonal shade of crimson trying to get the cranks off again :smile:
 
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Stantheman

Stantheman

Senior Member
Thank you both, day off tomorrow so I will get it done in the morning and have a ride in the afternoon
 

KneesUp

Guru
Thank you both, day off tomorrow so I will get it done in the morning and have a ride in the afternoon
I've just had mine out and went to the LBS to get some copper-slip or whatever it's called. 'Don't bother with all that business' was the gist of the reply - just use lithium grease - cheaper and just as effective apparently.

It's quite a satisfying job to do. Enjoy your ride :smile:
 
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Stantheman

Stantheman

Senior Member
Weather forecast has changed now, dry in the morning and wet later so the BB will have to wait. A new tube of weldtite grease with Teflon is waiting to be used.
 

Leaway2

Lycrist
Just a note of caution, my BB on unscrewed itself so I put a couple of drops of Locktite on mine!
I didn't like the UN55 non drive side, and the way the it does not sit in the cup. I swapped it out for a Tange after a about a thousand.
 

KneesUp

Guru
Just a note of caution, my BB on unscrewed itself so I put a couple of drops of Locktite on mine!
I didn't like the UN55 non drive side, and the way the it does not sit in the cup. I swapped it out for a Tange after a about a thousand.
The one I took out the other day (largely to check it was possible to get it our) seemed to have been fitted with some bathroom sealant between the cup and the sealed bit - perhaps it had the same issue? It's a Shimano one but I didn't check what model.
 
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Stantheman

Stantheman

Senior Member
The new one I fitted today had some white stuff which I assume is some sort of thread lock already applied on the non drive side. It was very easy to fit and I no longer gave a wobbly crank. I did apply grease before fitting as advised. Try it out on the commute to work tomorrow.
 

mrandmrspoves

Middle aged bald git.
Location
Narfuk
Definitely grease the thread. Different views and advice on spindles though.
I would never grease a square taper spindle as I think it increases the risk of it working loose and that can knacker the whoke chainset. Less of a problem with Octalink and ISIS systems as they don't rely on the tightness of the taper fit. Last time I had difficulty removing a crank it was because one of the cotter pins had seized!
 
Location
Loch side.
Definitely grease the thread. Different views and advice on spindles though.
I would never grease a square taper spindle as I think it increases the risk of it working loose and that can knacker the whoke chainset. Less of a problem with Octalink and ISIS systems as they don't rely on the tightness of the taper fit. Last time I had difficulty removing a crank it was because one of the cotter pins had seized!
Strangely enough, greasing the taper ensures a more secure fit and less chance of it working loose. The mechanism by which this happens is counter-intuitive. I like to explain it like this. Imagine a scrubbing brush with bristles of say 20mm. Place the brush on a carpeted surface, apply a little bit of pressure (just enough to bend the bristles) and now move it sideways say 10mm. You'll notice that the bristles bend to the side but don't slide on the carpet due to the friction between the bristles and carpet. Now pull up on the brush and at some point you'll notice the bristles catch up with the brush body and move over.
The same happens inside the crank's square taper. As the crank bolt forces the aluminium crank up over the taper, there is resistance between the crank and spindle to slide. No matter how tight you make the crank bolt, you can see that as soon as you somehow enlarge the square hole a little bit, the crank will move over without additional force from the bolt being applied. This actually happens when you pedal. The trailing face on the square taper relaxes and the crank moves up onto the taper, not down. This leaves the bolt loose and it can unscrew. The bolt cap prevents it from falling out but if you work on enough square taper cranks you would have come across a bolt that's completely loose inside.
If you grease the taper, the crank moves easier onto the taper and does less settling under pedaling forces. That's why it is better to grease than not to grease the taper. However, there is always a little bit of grease residue on the taper in anyway, since it is lightly greased at the factory to protect it from rust, so greasing more is only necessary if you suspect that the taper was supplied absolutely clean.
The last time I even saw a cottered crank was in my childhood. Thank goodness that madness has disappeared. Octalink has other problems and is definitely not a better design than square taper. It was borne out of necessity, but not as an improvement.
 
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