New chain advice

[EasyPeez]

Hi,

So just under 2,500 miles done on my road bike and it seems I need my first new chain. Does this sound about right in terms of mileage?
I was thinking of getting this as it seems decent value and my current chain, other than maybe not lasting as long as I hoped, has given me no problems an gear changing has been fluid and precise with it -
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-tiagra-4600-10sp-cassette-chain-bundle/rp-prod126506
The chain would be a direct replacement with what I have now, and the cassette would keep for further down the line.
But a friend reckons I should get a better quality chain and recommends this -
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.KMC-X10-SL-...aign=Adwords&gclid=COaSitrjycYCFbPKtAodzZIF0w

As I've never bought a new bike chain before I'd appreciate advice - at nearly 3x more in price is the KMC worth it? Surely it won't last 3x longer (i.e 7,500 miles) than the Shimano would it? Are there any other good reasons to spend more money on a chain than longevity?

Thanks, Andy

 

[Jenkins]

A more reasonable priced quality KMC chain would be the X10-73 for around £15 and the Tiagra cassette is available separately for around £12.

Nothing wrong with the Shimano chain in the bundle you linked to though, most people just prefer the KMCs.

 

[mjr]

2500 seems low to me, but I don't have any x10 bikes and I think the chain is thinner so maybe it's OK.

I prefer KMC to Shimano but that's not scientific and reviews of both seem mixed.

 

[EasyPeez]

[QUOTE 3793022, member: 9609"]2500 is good for a chain - out of curiosity, what is the reason you feel it needs replaced ? if it has passed the 1% wear threshold you will probably also need a new cassette.[/QUOTE]
Because the chain tool has been dropping through on .75% for the last couple of weeks. Tbh I should have changed it already I think but have been putting it off because it's been changing perfectly, but I did 90miles this weekend and had a few missed changes and a mini-chain slip so it's def time for a swap now. Hope I haven't pushed it beyond 1%, will have to have a measure tonight

I prefer KMC to Shimano

What do you find better about KMC? Do you think it likely that I'd get significantly more miles out of a KMC, based on your experience?

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

 

[mjr]

What do you find better about KMC? Do you think it likely that I'd get significantly more miles out of a KMC, based on your experience?

Longer periods between chain changes and less sudden crossing of the 0.5% wear threshold I use. I would expect to get more miles from it, but it might be that the Shimano chain you use is better than their 6/7/8-speed offering I've used.

I also really like KMC's reusable quick master links (I mean really like - I buy extra and use them if I ever use other brand chains) and hate the Shimano special pins, but I understand that not all KMC more-speed chains come with reusable quick links.

 

[EasyPeez]

Longer periods between chain changes and less sudden crossing of the 0.5% wear threshold I use. I would expect to get more miles from it,

Sounds good. I was surprised a bit by how quickly the Shimano went from measuring fine to beyond .75% to be honest.

I also really like KMC's reusable quick master links (I mean really like - I buy extra and use them if I ever use other brand chains) and hate the Shimano special pins, but I understand that not all KMC more-speed chains come with reusable quick links.

With quick-links - is it so you can take the chain on and off quickly to give it a thorough clean or something? I don't get their advantage when buying a new chain because don't you either need a chain tool anyway to get the new chain to the right length or a bike shop/mechanic to take it to to fit for you?

[QUOTE 3793672, member: 9609"]I tend to think (I am sure others will disagree) but if you want to keep replacing chains onto the same cassette then you don't want to go past 0.5% and since possibly 3/4 or more of the wear you will get out of a chain occurs before 0.5% then this is a good point to bin the old chain.[/QUOTE]
That sounds like sage advice. Unfortunately it probably also means that I'm going to need a new cassette AND a new chain measuring tool as I'm pretty sure mine only shows .75 and 1%

 

[mjr]

With quick-links - is it so you can take the chain on and off quickly to give it a thorough clean or something? I don't get their advantage when buying a new chain because don't you either need a chain tool anyway to get the new chain to the right length or a bike shop/mechanic to take it to to fit for you?

My bikes are common as muck so I can often buy chains that are the right length anyway (the 3x7 takes 116 links, for example) and it does make life easier when working on anything around the drivetrain to be able to get the chain out of the way easily. Also, using a chain tool to break/rejoin a chain isn't something that feels nice to do often.

I did once have trouble removing a chain so bad that I ended up hacksawing it off... so I feel it's reassuring to know it should just be a case of unclipping when the time comes.

 

[EasyPeez]

Ok, thanks for the advice @mjray, @Jenkins & @User9609. I've gone for the KMC X10-93 chain and Tiagra cassette - still comes in at under £30 for the pair. Will be interesting to keep tabs on this and see how the KMC does for mileage compared to the Shimano. Have also gone for a 12-28 cassette - I rarely use the bottom 2 gears on my 12-30 so thought I'd try something a bit different to see how they compare.

Based on your collective advice it sounds like I'm better off swapping chain and cassette together this time, so if I'm not at 1% wear already I might as well squeeze another few weeks out of my current set-up until I hit 1%, change both together and then change chains at 0.5% in future. Have ordered a better chain measuring tool to allow me to monitor it better.
Thanks again, Andy

 

[mjr]

if I'm not at 1% wear already I might as well squeeze another few weeks out of my current set-up until I hit 1%

Danger Will Robinson! If the chain wears to the point where it breaks, the flailing end can trash a lot of parts. If it's not giving you any clue that it's badly worn, don't rush it, but I wouldn't run it too long once I've noticed it's worn.

Have ordered a better chain measuring tool to allow me to monitor it better.

Use a ruler. 12 links = 12 inches. Just make sure the chain is tensed.

Can I interest you in a bridge I have for sale?

 

[EasyPeez]

Danger Will Robinson! If the chain wears to the point where it breaks, the flailing end can trash a lot of parts. If it's not giving you any clue that it's badly worn, don't rush it, but I wouldn't run it too long once I've noticed it's worn.

Use a ruler. 12 links = 12 inches. Just make sure the chain is tensed.

Can I interest you in a bridge I have for sale?

Yes, I'm very conscious that I don't want the chain to break when I'm miles from home so am just going to run it for a couple more weeks (have measured and not quite at 1% yet) while I wait for my new chain and cassette to arrive and me have time to fit them.

I don't actually own a ruler! So it was barely any more expensive to get a better measuring tool as buy a quality ruler. Cheers though, I didn't realise each link was exactly 1"

 

[Ticktockmy]

As most cycle chains are manufactured to the same standards for each amount of gearing indeed KMC produce chain for the other chain suppliers. You should not really find much difference in wear if all things are equal. However as newbies to cycling, we at first have to get used to using our gears correctly by maintaining a constant cadence 70-90 RPM depending on what suits you, then use the gears correctly to suit the hill or road conditions. You will find that your low replacement mileage2500mi should increase to 6000mi that's if you keep your drive chain set clean, at those mileages you can safely.change your cassette at the same time.

 

[EasyPeez]

As most cycle chains are manufactured to the same standards for each amount of gearing indeed KMC produce chain for the other chain suppliers. You should not really find much difference in wear if all things are equal. However as newbies to cycling, we at first have to get used to using our gears correctly by maintaining a constant cadence 70-90 RPM depending on what suits you, then use the gears correctly to suit the hill or road conditions. You will find that your low replacement mileage2500mi should increase to 6000mi that's if you keep your drive chain set clean, at those mileages you can safely.change your cassette at the same time.

2500 miles to 6000 miles, really?! I clean and re-lube my bike religiously each week so not sure what more I can do on that score. I think I am probably guilty of staying on the big cog for too long and would probably be better changing down to the smaller ring and going up a couple of gears on the cassette rather than using big chainring and lower gears on the cassette as I tend to do currently on hills. Maybe that would have an impact. Cheers.

 

[mjr]

I think it's a balancing act, with bigger cogs being less wearing, but twisted chainlines being more wearing. The choice between 2+5 and 3+3 on the bike with 3x7 gears makes me happy that I usually ride hub gears

 

[EasyPeez]

[QUOTE 3796025, member: 9609"]It does surprise me that your chain has started to slip with as little as 1% wear[/QUOTE]
It has only been the one slip so far to be fair, where the crank travelled maybe 1/4 of a rotation before re-engaging, and it happened from a standing start on a slight gradient. So maybe me suggesting it has started to slip is a bit disingenuous.

[QUOTE 3796025, member: 9609"]I knew I was going to replace my last cassette so I left the chain on for as long as possible[/QUOTE]
I was thinking of doing this, but am put off by the possibility of having a broken chain when miles from home. Also, wouldn't your experiment have been to the detriment of your chainring's lifespan? I would have thought a worn chain would speed up wear on the chainring, but maybe I'm misunderstanding how it works?

 

[Milkfloat]

I replace chains and cassettes probably far too often. I see them as cheap consumables like tyres and tubes. £40 twice a year is not too bad to stomach for me - cheaper than gels and cake stops.