New crankset: grease or not to grease?

[PpPete]

No need of torque wrench for a square taper crank, that's for sure.

 

[PpPete]

No need of torque wrench for a square taper crank, that's for sure.

But then again, I'm in the always grease the taper camp. So someone will be along to disagree shortly

 

[Jimmy Doug]

No need of torque wrench for a square taper crank, that's for sure.

So, would tighten-it-as-much-as-I-can-without-excessive-force be sufficient?

 

[PpPete]

So, would tighten-it-as-much-as-I-can-without-excessive-force be sufficient?

Steel spindle, steel bolt that size, yep, you can give it some serious welly. With a typical long 8mm allen key you won't get anywhere breaking anything. Even with the old-style hex bolts (14mm A/F IIRC) and 12" or 14" long wrench you can lean pretty much all you weight on it.

 

[Blue Hills]

I read somewhere that typical workshop allen keys were designed to be such a length that they inherently limited how much torque you could apply (ie: you'd feel the think starting to flex when you got to the outer limit) for a given size - any truth at all in this?
I do up my square spindle with the allen key and have no fears of busting anything. Always grease the bolt of course.

 

[Jimmy Doug]

I use a spanner on the bolt of the crank extractor - that gives me more leverage than just an allen key. Is this going over the top?

 

[Drago]

I use a proper crank bolt tool, ie, a special allen key with a comfy handle.

 

[Jimmy Doug]

I use a proper crank bolt tool, ie, a special allen key with a comfy handle.

...but no torque indicator?

 

[smokeysmoo]

I always used to use a pedal spanner that has allen heads on the opposite end, I still do sometimes, but I also have a set of T wrenches now, so I tend to use those

PS: I don't have the Pedros ones linked too, I'm not made of £