Glue on its own - ask for it at your LBS!
I patch the tube in the street if it's dry, not too cold, not an insalubrious area

(and time permitting), otherwise replace the tube and patch later as Skyfoil does.
Some people are wary of patching the tube, so:
Patching tubes - first add a piece of
decent sandpaper (glasspaper preferred - the waterproof green stuff from DIY stores) to your patch repair kit. The sandpaper or 'scratching tool' supplied with most kits is inadequate. Make sure you
thoroughly roughen the tube in an area
larger than the patch.
Seam punctures can easily be repaired too, just ensure that this roughening process removes all sign of the seam from where you are patching.
Having roughened the area
check where the puncture is again, apply a smear of glue so that the puncture is central to the glued area (actually it is vulcanising solution - simply put it chemically changes the rubber of the tube locally to allow the patch to stick). Allow this to become touch-dry (don't keep touching it, just allow the surface to dry - on a cold night you can blow gently on it to help).
Now you know where the puncture is, right (it is central to the glued area)? Carefully peal the cover off a patch and place it so its centre is the centre of the glued area. Do not touch the glued side of the patch. Press the patch in place against a hard surface (e.g. the cleaned bottom bracket of your upturned bike - or if you are hard, between finger and thumb

) using your finger-nail or similar to apply pressure moving from the centre of the patch to the edge. Don't move the patch whilst doing this (the idea is to push any air-bubbles out from under the patch, that is all).
After a few minutes, the vulcanising action will have completed (i.e. the glue will have taken

). I then add a further smear of 'glue' around the edge of the patch to prevent any loosness here resulting in a lifted patch. Blow this dry again, then scrape some of that white block in the repair kit with your fingernail to produce a talc-like dust and spread it over the patch (this is important to stop the patch sticking to the inside of the tyre, and tearing off when you pump it up).
Double check you've removed the cause of the p'ture then ease the tube back into the tyre and replace the tyre bead (preferably without using a lever). Pump up hard (this presses the patch into place of course).
This takes a long time to type, but I find that (in the right conditions) it is quicker than changing the tube, for the rear wheel - 'cos you don't need to remove the wheel to do it (tools required = 1 tyre lever for removal + glasspaper + patch + vulcanising solution + dust-block).