Noisy cassette

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lulubel

lulubel

Über Member
Location
Malaga, Spain
One other thing it may be the angle but your last photo above looks a little odd. Are you sure the rear mech's B screw is catching the stop on the dropout?

I thought it looked a bit odd in that photo too. I had the B screw properly adjusted when I fitted the mech, but it's possible it worked its way loose, I suppose, which would presumable put the top jockey wheel too close to the cassette, particularly on the bigger sprockets, and could be the cause of all the problems.

I'll take a look when I get a chance. It would be nice if it was as simple as that.
 

bianchi1

Guru
Location
malverns
I thought the cable thing was counter intuitive, but was told it by chris boardman's old mechanic (apparently) and it made a huge difference to my shifting.

So does the cable fit snugly into the derailleur, as it does in the screw fitting on mine. Any play in this area will mess up the shifting. I once had the thread go on the tensioning screw and it became loose. I ended up changing gear at random without using the shifters...took me ages to work out what was wrong..got to love bikes!!
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
I thought it looked a bit odd in that photo too. I had the B screw properly adjusted when I fitted the mech, but it's possible it worked its way loose, I suppose, which would presumable put the top jockey wheel too close to the cassette, particularly on the bigger sprockets, and could be the cause of all the problems.

I'll take a look when I get a chance. It would be nice if it was as simple as that.

It is not an uncommon mistake to bolt the rear mech onto the frame forgetting pulling the mech backwards at the same time letting the B screw clears the stop, giving rise to the screw being squished, sometimes bent, between the dropout and the mech...
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
As well as the b-screw, personally I'd have the hubs bolted directly above the mech (further forward) - i.e. you need axel adjuster screws in the drop out. All my 'horizontal' drop out bikes have the hubs bolted much further forward.

The B screw does look like it's screwed out, this decreases the tension and moves the mech jockeys closer to the cassette.
 
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