Outer Hebrides summer 2014
- Thread starter jurjan
- Start date
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GlasgowFinn
Guru
- Location
- The People's Republic of Cumbernauld
We "did" the Outer Hebrides last year.
I can thoroughly recommend this book.
We did not have a great deal of time at our disposal so our weekend looked like this:
Friday:Train to Oban; Ferry to Barra; Cycle to Vatersay
Saturday: Cycle then ferry to the Uists; Cycle through the Uists; Ferry to Harris; Cycle to Tarbert
Sunday: Cycle the length of Lewis to the Butt; cycle back to accommodation
Monday: Cycle to Stornoway; start journey home
We were blessed with absolutely gorgeous weather but a bit of a headwind. The standing stones at Calanais are a must see but the rest is just a nice pedal. We did it too quickly though.
I can thoroughly recommend this book.
We did not have a great deal of time at our disposal so our weekend looked like this:
Friday:Train to Oban; Ferry to Barra; Cycle to Vatersay
Saturday: Cycle then ferry to the Uists; Cycle through the Uists; Ferry to Harris; Cycle to Tarbert
Sunday: Cycle the length of Lewis to the Butt; cycle back to accommodation
Monday: Cycle to Stornoway; start journey home
We were blessed with absolutely gorgeous weather but a bit of a headwind. The standing stones at Calanais are a must see but the rest is just a nice pedal. We did it too quickly though.
SatNavSaysStraightOn
Changed hemispheres!
- Location
- ɐᴉlɐɹʇsn∀ 'ɐɹɹǝquɐƆ
To the north of Ullapool at Handa Reserve on Handa Island, there is a puffin colony. But it is a long ride each way from Ullapool... However you will get to see puffins there - bikes are not allowed on the island - it is walkers only and you have to leave at night, but leaving your bikes at the harbour or a local B&B or campsite will not be an issue. Wild camping - you will be lucky to find somewhere dry enough to pitch at tent, some terrain is not suitable to camping and that area is one of them (and I have done masses of wild camping). http://scottishwildlifetrust.org.uk/reserve/handa-island/ and the scenery between Ullapool and Scourie is fantastic (in good weather). It would probably add 3 days to your trip if you cycled there and back...
Getting out of Ullapool is hard work, there is only the one road (we cycled it last September) and it is a long haul up to the only road you can bale to. We did find however that we had no issues with it being the main Ullapool-Inverness road. There is also a cycle bus that covers the route I have described which I believe runs once a day every day from John O'Groats and passes through Ullapool which could be of assistance if time is tight, but I don't know much about it because we only found out about it after we had cycled out of Ullapool and ditched the idea of heading down the Torridons (mostly due to a storm and 3 days of torrential rain leaving up without a stitch of dry clothing).
I will also second or third the Callanish (or Calanais) Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis. And if you like flora then the Machair is worth a visit over around Bhaltos (or Valtos) on the far west side of Lewis (my husband tells me it is pretty good on Benbecula as well, but I have not managed to get there yet) - the machair is full of orchids which are wonderful IMO. And there is plenty of wild camping on the beach and beach edge there which we have used many times over the years. The orange blob in the 2nd photo being my old tent whilst wild camping around Bhaltos a few years ago (click on the pictures for a bigger view).
There is also a broch north of the Callanish (or Calanais) standing stones which is worth visiting, Carloway Broch which is on the road from Callenish to the Bute of Lewis.
However, the best place to get decent views of puffins are the Orkney islands and they too are well worth a visit with loads of history and wildlife. Westray was where I had my closest encounter with them - one actually landed that close to me that my 70-300mm camera lens could not focus on it because it was too close!
Getting out of Ullapool is hard work, there is only the one road (we cycled it last September) and it is a long haul up to the only road you can bale to. We did find however that we had no issues with it being the main Ullapool-Inverness road. There is also a cycle bus that covers the route I have described which I believe runs once a day every day from John O'Groats and passes through Ullapool which could be of assistance if time is tight, but I don't know much about it because we only found out about it after we had cycled out of Ullapool and ditched the idea of heading down the Torridons (mostly due to a storm and 3 days of torrential rain leaving up without a stitch of dry clothing).
I will also second or third the Callanish (or Calanais) Standing Stones on the Isle of Lewis. And if you like flora then the Machair is worth a visit over around Bhaltos (or Valtos) on the far west side of Lewis (my husband tells me it is pretty good on Benbecula as well, but I have not managed to get there yet) - the machair is full of orchids which are wonderful IMO. And there is plenty of wild camping on the beach and beach edge there which we have used many times over the years. The orange blob in the 2nd photo being my old tent whilst wild camping around Bhaltos a few years ago (click on the pictures for a bigger view).
There is also a broch north of the Callanish (or Calanais) standing stones which is worth visiting, Carloway Broch which is on the road from Callenish to the Bute of Lewis.
However, the best place to get decent views of puffins are the Orkney islands and they too are well worth a visit with loads of history and wildlife. Westray was where I had my closest encounter with them - one actually landed that close to me that my 70-300mm camera lens could not focus on it because it was too close!
Finn,
we had already looked at that book, good to see a recommendation for it.
satnav,
I may call you satnav, or do you prefer satnavsaysstraighton?
we did the Ullapool to Inverness main road a few years ago, wasn't too bad indeed, although I was not having a good day, while GF did have a good day...
Concerning puffins, we went to the Orkneys a few years ago, but too late in the season.
I have had my close encounter of the puffin kind in the 80's on Iceland, had to wave them of my shoelaces...
I fear we'll just skip the puffins till we visit Iceland (or the Orkneys again).
orchids are always nice, standing stones are a favorite, brochs are incredible.
I hope we can ignore the cycle bus, being outdoor is far better than a damp bus.
thanks for the input,
Jurjan
we had already looked at that book, good to see a recommendation for it.
satnav,
I may call you satnav, or do you prefer satnavsaysstraighton?
we did the Ullapool to Inverness main road a few years ago, wasn't too bad indeed, although I was not having a good day, while GF did have a good day...
Concerning puffins, we went to the Orkneys a few years ago, but too late in the season.
I have had my close encounter of the puffin kind in the 80's on Iceland, had to wave them of my shoelaces...
I fear we'll just skip the puffins till we visit Iceland (or the Orkneys again).
orchids are always nice, standing stones are a favorite, brochs are incredible.
I hope we can ignore the cycle bus, being outdoor is far better than a damp bus.
thanks for the input,
Jurjan
andrew_s
Legendary Member
- Location
- Gloucester
In the Outer Hebrides, the main puffin colonies are at St Kilda, the Shiants, the Flannan Isles, Mingulay and North Rona, none of which are easily accessible. Boat trips to Leverburgh to St Kilda are about £180-£190, which a 50% deposit on booking (returnable if the weather is no good). Boat trips to the Shiants would be about half that.
I'd probably go for Handa as you get a decent amount of time on the island, or possibly Staffa.
Puffin spotting site
The last time I went puffin spotting, in Shetland in mid-June, they were incubating, with the result that there weren't that many standing about posing for photographs. On previous trips, they have gone out to sea by early August.
If you feel adventurous, and aren't carrying too much, there's an interesting off road route from Ullapool nearly to Alness (on the Cromarty Firth). From Ullapool, go up Glen Achall, over to Glen Einig at Duaig bridge (just south of Oykell Bridge, then crossing to Strath Cuileannach, turn south at the Craigs to Glen Calvie, then follow the track over the hill to Strath Rusdale. 35c tyres minimum, and be prepared for the odd walking stretch
http://cycle.travel/map/journey/222?lat=57.8513&lon=-4.6912&zoom=10
I'd probably go for Handa as you get a decent amount of time on the island, or possibly Staffa.
Puffin spotting site
The last time I went puffin spotting, in Shetland in mid-June, they were incubating, with the result that there weren't that many standing about posing for photographs. On previous trips, they have gone out to sea by early August.
If you feel adventurous, and aren't carrying too much, there's an interesting off road route from Ullapool nearly to Alness (on the Cromarty Firth). From Ullapool, go up Glen Achall, over to Glen Einig at Duaig bridge (just south of Oykell Bridge, then crossing to Strath Cuileannach, turn south at the Craigs to Glen Calvie, then follow the track over the hill to Strath Rusdale. 35c tyres minimum, and be prepared for the odd walking stretch
http://cycle.travel/map/journey/222?lat=57.8513&lon=-4.6912&zoom=10
Andrew,
mmmhhh, we've never been accused of bikepacking... We're more of the type, let's take some extra spares, we've never needed them, but perhaps this time?
It does look like a nice route, probably some VERY nice views en route.
We'll draw this one in on the maps, and who knows... maybe we'll be feeling more adventurous than normal when we get there.
btw: both your and satnav's pics are very, very impressive!
Thanks,
Jurjan
mmmhhh, we've never been accused of bikepacking... We're more of the type, let's take some extra spares, we've never needed them, but perhaps this time?
It does look like a nice route, probably some VERY nice views en route.
We'll draw this one in on the maps, and who knows... maybe we'll be feeling more adventurous than normal when we get there.
btw: both your and satnav's pics are very, very impressive!
Thanks,
Jurjan
stumpy66
Veteran
- Location
- Lanarkshire
As already said the standing stones at Callanish, Lewis is worth visit and if starting at Barra make sure you go to Vatersay and check out the beaches, there is also a campsite on the north end of Barra past the airport. The beaches on Harris are beautiful. Stornoway i think is always nice to visit, good bunk house/campsite there. Ive been on the outer hebrides the last 3 years, this year were going to Orkney
Stumpy, Orkneys very nice set of islands...
we went there three years ago, very lucky with the weather.
We do like those strange airports, so we'll be visiting the Barra one.
the pictures we've seen of the beaches are out of this world, very pretty.
thanks,
Jurjan
we went there three years ago, very lucky with the weather.
We do like those strange airports, so we'll be visiting the Barra one.
the pictures we've seen of the beaches are out of this world, very pretty.
thanks,
Jurjan
There is a daily service from Glasgow that lands at Barra and then continues on to Benbecula. It then returns to Barra and then then back to Glasgow. Sometimes there are tourist tickets available for the Barra-Benbecula-Barra part of the journey that allows you to fly over the islands.
See http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/barra/loganair/
I was wild camping next to the airport about 8 years ago and a couple I was talking to (who were also dutch) went on the flight and they said it was really good.
Will
See http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/barra/loganair/
I was wild camping next to the airport about 8 years ago and a couple I was talking to (who were also dutch) went on the flight and they said it was really good.
Will
stumpy66
Veteran
- Location
- Lanarkshire
The landing strip at the Barra airport is the beach, well worth a look
NickWi
Guru
Hi Jurjan,
Nobody has so far mentioned the Northumberland coast north of Newcastle and the Farne Islands for Puffins ( see here http://www.visitnorthumberland.com/coast/farne-islands ). There is a well sign posted cycle route along the coast taking in quite a few castles. It's not a particularly challenging route but would make a nice way to stretch the legs on the way out or wind down on the way back. Search under Coast & Castles cycle route.
Nick
Nobody has so far mentioned the Northumberland coast north of Newcastle and the Farne Islands for Puffins ( see here http://www.visitnorthumberland.com/coast/farne-islands ). There is a well sign posted cycle route along the coast taking in quite a few castles. It's not a particularly challenging route but would make a nice way to stretch the legs on the way out or wind down on the way back. Search under Coast & Castles cycle route.
Nick
Stumpy and Wil:
airport, check
flight, mmmhhh maybe, we were planning on not taking an airplane this holiday (last year we went to Ecuador / Galapagos: mucho airmiles)
Nick:
we did a bit of Coast and Castles last time, but managed to miss Farne islands...
This year we were planning to stay more westerly, but...
thanks,
Jurjan
airport, check
flight, mmmhhh maybe, we were planning on not taking an airplane this holiday (last year we went to Ecuador / Galapagos: mucho airmiles)
Nick:
we did a bit of Coast and Castles last time, but managed to miss Farne islands...
This year we were planning to stay more westerly, but...
thanks,
Jurjan
Hi,
I have two previous cycle tours of the outer hebrides done and have another planned for June 2014. Beautiful islands and perfect for cycling with loaded bikes. Make sure you have accommodation booked in advance as we found it was very busy last year (August) it does mean you have to stick to a schedule but it makes it more enjoyable knowing you have a bed at the end of the day or if you are camping there is sites for camping or camp pitches available at Gatliffe hostels. There is an excellent book called 'Cycling in the hebrides'
by Richard Barrett (he lives on harris so knows the islands) which is available on Amazon. We found it offers excellent advice regarding cycle routes, cafes, shops,ferries etc. our plan this year is Oban to barra, south uist, benbecula, grimsay, north uist, berneray, Harris, Lewis ferry to Ullapool then train back to edinburgh.
Whatever islands you decide to visit you'll have a wonderful time
Ps we saw puffins on north uist
I have two previous cycle tours of the outer hebrides done and have another planned for June 2014. Beautiful islands and perfect for cycling with loaded bikes. Make sure you have accommodation booked in advance as we found it was very busy last year (August) it does mean you have to stick to a schedule but it makes it more enjoyable knowing you have a bed at the end of the day or if you are camping there is sites for camping or camp pitches available at Gatliffe hostels. There is an excellent book called 'Cycling in the hebrides'
by Richard Barrett (he lives on harris so knows the islands) which is available on Amazon. We found it offers excellent advice regarding cycle routes, cafes, shops,ferries etc. our plan this year is Oban to barra, south uist, benbecula, grimsay, north uist, berneray, Harris, Lewis ferry to Ullapool then train back to edinburgh.
Whatever islands you decide to visit you'll have a wonderful time
Ps we saw puffins on north uist
