Pedals will not budge

[ASC1951]

really?

Half a dozen infallible ways of remembering the correct thread in as many posts. That's why I go and look at a spare pedal.

 

[GilesM]

if you were to make a LH drive bike, you would need to retap the cranks and insert helicoils to keep the threading same as for RH drive bike, unless someone makes LH drive chainsets, I've yet to hear of any.

Crossover drives for Tandems have exactly this, many years ago a friend and I had a budget tandem with normal bike bits, I was on the back and my left hand pedal came off as I was going along, the bearings were a bit tight and the thread just unwound, amusing at the time, but only because I wasn't out of the saddle

 

[tyred]

I generally find that sitting on the bike, attach the spanner then a good wallop with my boot shifts most things. But them I am 18 stone and have size 12 feet. Don't half hurt your ankle when the spanner slips. A smear of copper ease on reassembly will help with removal next time.

The shock treatment is as good as any in my experience and as a pretty hefty individual, a boot is good but a hammer is probably better.

 

[02GF74]

Half a dozen infallible ways of remembering the correct thread in as many posts. That's why I go and look at a spare pedal.

it is easy. RH crank is LH thread - know that as I've had to remove a few and then the pedal is opposite threading.

then there is the little nut on the pedal spindle holding the pedal on -I think that is like the BB.

 

[Bond]

Thanks everyone, manged to get them off with the help of a hammer.

 

[Norm]

Thanks everyone, manged to get them off with the help of a hammer.

Nice, congrats. But, was he wearing his pyjamas whilst helping you?

 

[Bond]

Nice, congrats. But, was he wearing his pyjamas whilst helping you?

He was. He broke in to very cool dance while singing 'can't touch this' after each pedal came off as well

 

[Norm]

Excellent. But you do realise that I'm going to have that tune in my head all day now!

 

[GrahamG]

Talk of right hand and left hand threads mean little to me. I've found the easiest way to remember which way to turn it is, with the spanner downwards onto the nut, the top of the spanner should turn towards the back wheel.

That's the way I remember it too - down towards the back wheel on both sides.

 

[ianrauk]

yup, it's how I remember

Right is right (thread the same as screws etc) left is wrong.

That's how I remember it.

 

[GrumpyGregry]

Thanks everyone, manged to get them off with the help of a hammer.

when in doubt apply a larger Birmingham hammer.

 

[davidg]

If you put a piece of tube or something on the end of the spanner, you should be able to exert enough force to get any pedal off.

I was looking for something like this...any idea where I could get it?

I have a park tool, chain whip/pedal spanner so not quite as handy as a pure pedal spanner but surely with a bit of help, it will work?!

http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=4&item=HCW-16

 

[HLaB]

Somebody on the old C+ forum said 'into the frame to loosen' that sticks in my mind

 

[tyred]

I was looking for something like this...any idea where I could get it?

I have a park tool, chain whip/pedal spanner so not quite as handy as a pure pedal spanner but surely with a bit of help, it will work?!

http://www.parktool....t=4&item=HCW-16

Hit it a good whack with a hammer. The shock will help free it.

 

[Fiona N]

I use possibly the most obscure tool for removing pedals - an ice screw I use Crank Brothers pedals which have the Allen key socket in the axle but my appropriate Allen key (6mm IIRC) is only about 15cm and doesn't supply enough leverage to shift a pedal screwed in by a bike shop man, so a basic 25cm ice screw slotted over the allen key increases leverage wonderfully - but a couple of people have questioned why I have an ice screw on the tools bench.