Please help : the basics of pedal removal

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PedalCat

I like sandwiches
I need to remove the pedals from a Raleigh racer, approx 30 yrs old. Any tips appreciated, and can i do it with an adjustable spanner and patience and logic?
Thanks in advance.
 
WD40, proper pedal spanner, extension bar is useful, knowledge that both sides undo towards the rear wheel, oh yes, and a big box of plasters ;)

Also, AASHTA :thumbsup:
 

Pottsy

...
Location
SW London
Right is right i.e. normal thread. Left is wrong i.e. clockwise to undo.

Clean and re-grease before fitting.

Oh, and never run with scissors.
 

Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
The right hand pedal has a right hand (normal) thread. The left hand has a left hand (backwards) thread. So to remove the left pedal, you'll need to turn it the "wrong" way.

If they haven't been moved for 30 years they could prove tricky. Put some Plus Gas or other penetrating oil (WD40 and GT85 don't count as such), and leave to soak. An adjustable spanner might work but the business end will need to be thin enough to fit onto the pedal. Alternative tools to use are a 15mm open ended spanner or a proper pedal spanner.

For seriously stuck pedals I've successfully extended a spanner by slipping a length of scaffold tube over the end.
 
OP
OP
PedalCat

PedalCat

I like sandwiches
What's your favourite sandwich then?
Cheese salad. If that's boring, i'm not apologising; i absolutely love cheese salad sarnies. With salad cream. Pickle or beetroot or marmite are ok by me if salad is too much hassle.
Thanks for the pedal help, everybody.
 

GrasB

Veteran
Location
Nr Cambridge
Pedal removal 101:
  1. Get a strong but disposable 15mm spanner, correct size allen key or even Torx(!) key. (a spanner works better if the pedals allow)
  2. prop the bike up against something or have it on a 'display' stand
  3. set the pedals at quarter to 3
  4. set the spanner on the forward pedal so it's at about 3 o clock
  5. put your foot on the pedal & put your open hand nearest to the bike on the handle bars
  6. pull UP with your hand away from the until you're straining a bit. use your foot to keep the cranks from turning.
  7. Hold the pressure until the pedal undoes
Using this method if you slip you tend to step to the back of the bike & your hand will move up. The worst is a bit of bruising on your forearm or shin.
 
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helston90

Eat, sleep, ride, repeat.
Location
Cornwall
Do this- using your foot removes a lot of the risk element.
Don't use an adjustable spanner- to my experience last weekend they are too wide and will warp/ slip- use a 15mm spanner if you don't have a proper pedal spanner.
 

MickeyBlueEyes

Eat, Sleep, Ride, Repeat.
Location
Derbyshire
Adjustable spanner :ohmy: Cant stand these.....
A full set of ring/open end contains all the sizes you would ever need, there's no room in the tool chest for adjustables.

Hope all's well on the pedal front though ?
 

lucky67

Active Member
Here looking at what grease to put on bits like this of an old bike to stop them seizing....but in my experience with other stuck rusted bolts ...cars, lawn mower blades, water taps).
WD40 (or Plus Gas is better if you have any), let it soak for a while and then using a well fitting spanner, attach the spanner and tap the spanner with a hammer in the right direction ...and if that doesn't get it started give it a couple of taps in opposite direction and then again in right direction ..and then try by hand ...
Spray again and leave for a bit longer...and repeat process
I do mean TAPS with hammer not belts as that risks shearing bolts and damaging threads ....and if that fails use an extension tube - and the hammer taps...
Seems the sudden force works better than a build up ...
 

lucky67

Active Member
Just realised that wasn't clear - I meant by the first line that I'm a complete bike novice - but have got the rusty pedals off my 'new' bike...and about to ask lots of questions...
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
If that goes wrong you can write off a carbon or aluminium frame!

Why and how? The "foot" method Helson90's link shown is what I have used, numerous times. Not much difference to stepping on a pedal with just one foot while holding the bike stationary (one hand gripping a brake lever to stop bike moving and the other holding the saddle works). It will not cause injuries to hand or back that most other methods can easily do, and I can't see how it can damage the frame either.

It is not always possible to position the pedal spanner (yes one should use a pedal spanner) to be inline with the crank arm at 3 o'clock as shown, but it is keeping the angle of the spanner at 9 or 10 o'clock that is important, the crank arm does not have to be at exactly 3 o'clock for the principle to work just fine.
 
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