Punctures,replacing tyres!

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Scott addict

Active Member
Location
Cumbria
I started cycling this month after a year lay off.I completed my first 50 mile ride on Saturday in 3 hours 45 minutes climbing 3,575 ft.I was tired when I finished but very satisfied with my achievement at the grand old age of 64 😅.I don’t have lots of experience but love planning routes getting out when I can.I’ve been lucky so far not having a puncture! My question is which is best way to put a tyre back on the wheel hub? Some cyclists say start at the valve some tell me finish at the valve?for difficult tyres put soapy water on the tyre rim etc?
 

Spiderweb

Not So Special One
Location
North Yorkshire
Well done on your 50 mile ride and that is quite a bit of climbing too.
I always start at the valve, it’s where the thickest reinforced bit of the rubber is, and in my opinion the easiest bit to trap. I make sure the rubber isn’t trapped by pushing the valve well into the tyre away from the rim then I gradually work my way around seating the tyre. It’s good to have a tiny bit of air in the tube so it just forms it’s circular shape.
Many will say talcum powder helps, I’ve never needed this but would imagine that this will help if you’re struggling, some tubes come pre-talced.
 
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Scott addict

Scott addict

Active Member
Location
Cumbria
I always start at the valve, it’s where the thickest reinforced bit of the rubber is. I make sure the rubber isn’t trapped by pushing the valve well into the tyre away from the rim then I gradually work my way around seating the tyre. It’s good to have a tiny bit of air in the tube so it just forms it’s circular shape.
Many will say talcum powder helps, I’ve never needed this but would imagine that this will help if you’re struggling, some tubes come pre-talced.

Thank you I was told to pinch the tyre too create space and seated it on the rim allowing a bit more room to push it back on.
 
Put one tyre bead all the way onto the rim.
Insert the inner tube but do not tighten the ring holding the valve to the rim.
Start at the valve. With both beads started off in position, push the whole valve into the rim about 1cm, squeeze the bead each side of the valve, pull the valve out again. The valve is now seated correctly.

The inside of the rim has a central well of smaller diameter. If you press the beads together, into this well, you get a little more slack for popping the last bit of bead.
Beware damaging the inner between bead and rim esp using tyre levers.
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
I start at the valve to make sure it seats properly (as per MW2 above) around it and work both ways. for a really tight tyre I would finish at 90* to the valve as it is easier to pinch the tyre into the deepest part of the rim, to gain an extra mm or two, opposite where you are working the last bit over the rim, when you are nowhere near or opposite the valve.

talcum powder is a a good "lube" for tight rims, sprinkle liberally into the tyre.
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
I used to be a start-at-the-valve person. But I was swayed by reading many cyclechat posts that starting opposite the valve was better (because the valve prevents the beads from going into the valve well) . I now sit on the fence, with the valve at 3 or 9 o'clock.

(Whispers) I don't think it makes any real difference.
 

PaulSB

Legendary Member
Lots of very good advice here, all of which I agree with.

My top tip is to put talc on your spare tubes. When I buy tubes I unbox them, dust with talc, wrap in a sheet of newspaper, wrap in cling film and then pop into my saddlebag. This protects the tyre in the saddle bag and ensures you have talc available when fixing a roadside puncture. The talc on the tube quickly transfers itself on to the tyre and rim.
 
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Scott addict

Scott addict

Active Member
Location
Cumbria
Lots of very good advice here, all of which I agree with.

My top tip is to put talc on your spare tubes. When I buy tubes I unbox them, dust with talc, wrap in a sheet of newspaper, wrap in cling film and then pop into my saddlebag. This protects the tyre in the saddle bag and ensures you have talc available when fixing a roadside puncture. The talc on the tube quickly transfers itself on to the tyre and rim.

Great idea thanks.I’ve even been told to rub petroleum gel onto wheel rim also so it slides back on.
 

Jameshow

Veteran
Lots of very good advice here, all of which I agree with.

My top tip is to put talc on your spare tubes. When I buy tubes I unbox them, dust with talc, wrap in a sheet of newspaper, wrap in cling film and then pop into my saddlebag. This protects the tyre in the saddle bag and ensures you have talc available when fixing a roadside puncture. The talc on the tube quickly transfers itself on to the tyre and rim.

I keep them in the box. Pushing the flat tube into the tyre casing before pulling remaining bead over rim and inflating!

I could do it blindfolded which is good job as I always seem to get punctures in dark!🤣🤣🤣🤣
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
Lots of very good advice here, all of which I agree with.

My top tip is to put talc on your spare tubes. When I buy tubes I unbox them, dust with talc, wrap in a sheet of newspaper, wrap in cling film and then pop into my saddlebag. This protects the tyre in the saddle bag and ensures you have talc available when fixing a roadside puncture. The talc on the tube quickly transfers itself on to the tyre and rim.

I do similar. Rub tube with talc, put in a sandwich bag with a bit of extra talc, wrap up and secure with insulating tape.
 
If you have a tyre/rim combo such that the tyre won't seat correctly and always has a flat spot, then rub some soft soap/washing up liquid on the bead/rim and this will help the tyre to seat correctly.
 
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