Question about inner tubes

[bikenoob]

Hi, apologies for the dumb question but I'm new to this. I need to buy some new inner tubes for my bike (Giant Hybrid). Tyres are 700 x 32C (32-622). I've been looking and noticed that alot of the inner tubes seem to have a range e.g. 700c x 28/35. Do I need to find one that is exactly 700x32c? Is also don't know anything about inner tubes so can some-one suggest a reasonable brand?

Many thanks.

 

[Spiderweb]

No you don’t have to have the exact size tube to suit, the ones you mention will be fine.
I’ve purchased lots of different branded ones over the years, never really had an issue with any.

 

[vickster]

I don’t like Continental presta tubes all all. They have removable cores that come loose eg when using a screw on pump hose and can fly out and disappear at the road side rendering a new tube unusable. I now avoid like the plague
Michelin, Schwalbe even Halfords are preferable!

 

[nickyboy]

I also thk there's a fair degree of latitude on these sizings too. I have 25mm tyres and I often buy 18-23 and they seem fine

 

[bikenoob]

Thanks for the comments. That really helps.

 

[andrew_s]

There's quite a lot of leeway.

If the tube says it's narrower than the tyre (like @nickyboy's 18-23 tubes in a 25 tyre), it will just stretch to fit.
If it's a smaller diameter (like a 650c tube in a 700c tyre) or a couple of sizes bigger than the tyre (35-40 tube in a 28 tyre), it will be difficult to fit without it getting trapped under the bead, which can allow it to burst out as you pump the tyre.

Smaller tubes are lighter, probably very slightly faster, and take up less space in your saddle pack, but if you do puncture, the tyre will go flat pretty quickly. If you don't stop before the tyre is completely flat, you can get a snakebite in addition to the original puncture, which makes both realising that there is an original puncture, and finding the cause of it, more difficult. If you don't find the cause, the chances are good that you'll have another puncture in a few miles.

Larger tubes are heavier, bulkier, probably a bit slower, but if you puncture the unstretched tube will often go flat slower (giving you chance to stop before it's completely flat), and sometimes (with thorns, usually) it leaks slowly enough that you can ride home without doing more than pumping a bit.
I did once do 4 or 5 80-100 mile club runs with half an inch of thorn inside my inner tube, before I got fed up with having to pump up a soft tyre every 2 or 3 days, and found it.

 

[bikenoob]

Thanks @andrew_s. Good advice.

 

[Vantage]

There's no evidence whatsoever that larger tubes leak slower than thinner tubes. We've been through this already.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

There's no evidence whatsoever that larger tubes leak slower than thinner tubes. We've been through this already.

They cannot do anything but leak more slowly. The trapped air molecules have to pass through a greater thickness of rubber. I tend to use the largest tubes that will inflate correctly, and avoid using skinny ones that will be highly expanded when inflated. I don't generally get rapid loss of pressure, some of my tyres will go a month between air top-ups and I'm fussy about not riding on half flat tyres.

 

[MichaelW2]

Deep aerodynamic rims need extra long valves. If you use these valves in std rims they stick out a lot. You have a lot of leverage to cause damage esp with a mini pump. Best get the correct valve length but in an emergency the xl will do the job.

 

[bobsinatra]

I don’t like Continental presta tubes all all. They have removable cores that come loose eg when using a screw on pump hose and can fly out and disappear at the road side rendering a new tube unusable. I now avoid like the plague
Michelin, Schwalbe even Halfords are preferable!

Yes have to agree with you. With a hand pump they are dreadful.

I have a valve core tightening tool, will give that a go to see if that helps.

 

[froze]

I had issues with most tubes these days, this wasn't the case over 15 years ago, but now to save money they take shortcuts that have made the tubes more fragile. I do like Specialized tubes, they seem to have the most robust presta valve design, even though they look the same they hold up way longer than others. I also like Vittoria tubes.

There is at least a couple of thermoplastic type of tubes out now, I would not recommend them because primarily the cost, and though each company that makes them have their own patches, those patches are self-sticking and they'll only work for about 24 to 48 hours. So if you get a flat you will eventually throw the expensive tube away. I like self-sticking Park Glueless patches for butyl tubes, those will hold for the life of the tube, but these new thermoplastic tubes won't accept the patch for the life of the tube. Thermoplastic tubes is a great idea, but without the better patches to hold forever is simply not a good thing.

Latex tubes, while cheaper than thermoplastic tubes, still don't represent a good value unless you're racing. I did not find them to be any more flat resistant than a standard butyl tube was, but they do ride comfortably.

 

[TimWinters]

Schwalbe is the only rand of tubes I will buy. I suppose it is what you end up trusting to do the job and for me that is Schwalbe tyres and tubes.

 

[chris-suffolk]

They cannot do anything but leak more slowly. The trapped air molecules have to pass through a greater thickness of rubber. I tend to use the largest tubes that will inflate correctly, and avoid using skinny ones that will be highly expanded when inflated. I don't generally get rapid loss of pressure, some of my tyres will go a month between air top-ups and I'm fussy about not riding on half flat tyres.

He wasn't talking about going down slower over a period of time - which I would agree with - but going down slower when punctured, which has to be wrong. If I cut a thick tube with a knife, it will go down pretty much instantly, where-as if I make the smallest hole possible in a thin tube it will go down more slowly. It depends on the type of puncture, not the thickness of the tube, that influences how quickly the tube deflates - surely?

 

[12boy]

I only use Schrader valve tubes, because 40 years ago I broke a couple of Prestas when trying to pump them up. Once I had bored out the Schrader holes I just stuck with them. I prefer tubes that are threaded to take a nut so the tube doesn't migrate as I force the tire on. I find it easy to put sealant in Schrader stems, and it would seem difficult with Prestas. I do carry Park patches for on the road repairs, but if fixed at home I prefer Rema Tip Top patches which I buy by the 100 along with an 8oz tin of glue. it is cheaper than the little kits in the long run and the glue stays good for years, unlike the little tubes which can dry out.