Question about 'none sealed' bearings on wheels.

[night cycler]

I have a front wheel that is what might be referred to as 'old style' bearings (I don't know the correct term for them).

It was a bit unusual for me, as it has a skewer through. I was thinking that only modern wheels had scewer fixing.

Also, am I correct that I won't loose any bearings by removing the skewer for lube & cleaning for example?

 

[ColinJ]

'Cup and cone'?

 

[biggs682]

You won't loose any bearings by releasing the quick release, but once you slacken the lock nuts off then you might .

Lots of good videos on the internet or find a good bike shop.

Where are you located as there might be a fellow cycle chat member who can help

 

[Paulus]

I have a front wheel that is what might be referred to as 'old style' bearings (I don't know the correct term for them).

It was a bit unusual for me, as it has a skewer through. I was thinking that only modern wheels had scewer fixing.

Also, am I correct that I won't loose any bearings by removing the skewer for lube & cleaning for example?

By skewer, do you mean the QR, quick release skewer? This goes through the axle. Removing it does nothing to the bearings which as @ColinJ says will be of the cup and cone style.

 

[night cycler]

By skewer, do you mean the QR, quick release skewer? This goes through the axle. Removing it does nothing to the bearings which as @ColinJ says will be of the cup and cone style.

Yes. Removing the skewer from the wheel to clean & lube.

A bloke was showing me his sealed bearing wheel and his skewer was siezed inside. He was telling me the wheel had been stored for some time -in a garage for some time. Maybe damp/ condensation over a long time. I thought I would learn from his mistake, and clean & lubricate mine.

 

[Ajax Bay]

QR axle can be cup&cone or friction fit cartridge bearings (which press into the hub shell/flanges or 'slip' into the freehub).
The term "sealed bearing" is often used colloquially to refer to a cartridge bearing.

https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

 

[night cycler]

QR axle can be cup&cone or friction fit cartridge bearings (which press into the hub shell/flanges or 'slip' into the freehub).
The term "sealed bearing" is often used colloquially to refer to a cartridge bearing.

View attachment 717666
https://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

@Ajax
Good illustration there, thank you.

I am assuming that the hole through the hub that accommodates the QR skewer is the same diameter for cartridge and cone type?

 

[Ajax Bay]

QR skewers are 4.8mm diameter and the 'ole in the axle is about 5mm. All the same. Obviously rear and front QRs are a different length, typically 35mm (rear) and 30mm (front) longer than the OL: for the QR nut, and both dropouts (rear dropouts typically 8-9mm thick; front 5-6mm thick).
Edit: Both axle and skewer are steel so the occasional pull out, skewer and nut and lever and springs clean (with WD40) and a smear of grease before reassembly is entirely doable (if OCD use a pipe cleaner (remember those?) to boogie out the axles). Neither axle nor skewer moves (with relation to one another or the dropouts), during riding. Riding through a flood deep enough to come above hub level for any length of time may allow water ingress and possibly rust if left. But you'll have more pressing issues: hubs (bearings), BB and even chainstays and rims: I'm looking at you

 

[raleighnut]

The advantage with unsealed hubs is that if water does get in it can get out again.

 

[night cycler]

The advantage with unsealed hubs is that if water does get in it can get out again.

Get out again after it has started the ferrous oxide process?

 

[raleighnut]

Get out again after it has started the ferrous oxide process?

Depends if you put in enough of the right grease when assembling, never had a problem with 'cup and cone' after 50 years of riding bikes so equipped and I ride in all weathers.

 

[fossyant]

Decent marine grease and you'll be reet !

 

[Yellow Saddle]

There are a few types of bearings used in bicycles. Two of these are cup-and-cone and cartridge bearings. @Ajax pointed this out in his post above.

Note that both these bearings can be sealed or unsealed. Further, there are different types of seals, each with their own merits.

In spite of people's perceptions that cup-and-cone bearings are inferior to cartridge bearings ("sealed" in the wrong parlance), this is not the case. Cup-and-cone bearings are angular contact bearings which can work with both radial and axial forces, whereas cartridge bearings of the deep groove ball type, can only work with radial forces. The approximately 45 degree contact angle of the latter copes better with bicycle-generated forces on wheels and BBs than cartridge bearings. They are also more expensive to manufacture and harder to service, although, I'll dispute the latter.

Cartridge bearings are favoured by manufacturers because they are off-she-shelf items that don't require any design skills or special tools at bike manufacturer level.

Lastly, the diagram offered upstream, from the Sheldon Brown website, has errors and omissions in the labelling. The "dustcap" is actually a contactless labyrinth seal and the labels indicating the two contact rubber seals on the left and right side, are missing.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Get out again after it has started the ferrous oxide process?

No, it gets out before entering the bearing race area. The "dustcap" (see diagram) is a type of seal that allows water that splashes into the bearing, to drain out before it enters where it matters.

Obviously, if you dunk it in water, you'll overwhelm the seal and water will get in, but then water will get into a cartridge bearing with a rubber seal as well.