R7020 rotors

[Johnno260]

If I have R7020 standard rotors and wanted to upgrade to ultegra ICE rotors would this be possible?

I have been offered some RT-CL800 rotors.

My wheels are center locks.

 

[I like Skol]

If I have R7020 standard rotors and wanted to upgrade to ultegra ICE rotors would this be possible?

I have been offered some RT-CL800 rotors.

My wheels are center locks.

Probably, but why? If your current rotors are working and straight/true then I would stick with them. Changing just for the sake of it risks introducing bent rotors, rotors that go out of true when hot, squealing brakes when you previously had silence or just less effective braking due to rotor surface condition/ing (especially if these are used rotors, why are these available?).

 

[Johnno260]

Probably, but why? If your current rotors are working and straight/true then I would stick with them. Changing just for the sake of it risks introducing bent rotors, rotors that go out of true when hot, squealing brakes when you previously had silence or just less effective braking due to rotor surface condition/ing (especially if these are used rotors, why are these available?).

Someone I know has them, but no longer needs them, they are brand new unused parts.

 

[ianrauk]

If they are the same fitting and the same size then its not so much an upgrade as just swapping over like for like.

I've had cheap rotors and expensive ones and I couldn't tell any difference in stopping or wear between them.

But.. if they are free.. fill yer boots. Use and keep the others as spares.

 

[Johnno260]

They said I can have them for a few beers, like you said it would be for spares once I need them and looking at rotor prices for the price of a few beers it’s worth it.

 

[I like Skol]

Just FYI and YMMV, but I took the Icetec rotors off my best Ultegra bike and fitted lower spec standard ones (SLX MTB ones I think from memory) because the ICE ones would always warp when hot and then rub for a few 100 yards until they cooled down again. No amount of caliper adjustment could stop it and I just gave up in the end.

My pseudo-science head suggests this is an obvious side effect of the construction as I believe it is a layer of ali sandwiched between the two steel outer surfaces. The reasoning is less weight(?) and better thermal transfer by the ali to the cooling fins, but my theory is that sandwiching the metals with differing thermal expansion properties causes massive internal tensions as the metals heal and cool, and it is this that leads to the warping when hot.

I'll stick with my plain steel rotors thank you.

 

[Johnno260]

Just FYI and YMMV, but I took the Icetec rotors off my best Ultegra bike and fitted lower spec standard ones (SLX MTB ones I think from memory) because the ICE ones would always warp when hot and then rub for a few 100 yards until they cooled down again. No amount of caliper adjustment could stop it and I just gave up in the end.

My pseudo-science head suggests this is an obvious side effect of the construction as I believe it is a layer of ali sandwiched between the two steel outer surfaces. The reasoning is less weight(?) and better thermal transfer by the ali to the cooling fins, but my theory is that sandwiching the metals with differing thermal expansion properties causes massive internal tensions as the metals heal and cool, and it is this that leads to the warping when hot.

I'll stick with my plain steel rotors thank you.

ohhh that’s good to know as brake squeal is a real hate of mine.

 

[C R]

Just FYI and YMMV, but I took the Icetec rotors off my best Ultegra bike and fitted lower spec standard ones (SLX MTB ones I think from memory) because the ICE ones would always warp when hot and then rub for a few 100 yards until they cooled down again. No amount of caliper adjustment could stop it and I just gave up in the end.

My pseudo-science head suggests this is an obvious side effect of the construction as I believe it is a layer of ali sandwiched between the two steel outer surfaces. The reasoning is less weight(?) and better thermal transfer by the ali to the cooling fins, but my theory is that sandwiching the metals with differing thermal expansion properties causes massive internal tensions as the metals heal and cool, and it is this that leads to the warping when hot.

I'll stick with my plain steel rotors thank you.

It makes perfect sense, that's the mechanism used by the thermal switch in a kettle.

 

[Johnno260]

I’m not convinced they would fit anyway.

What I believe I have I need to see if the part number is stamped onto the rotor.

These are what I was offered, both say center lock but looks different to me.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

I’m not convinced they would fit anyway.

What I believe I have I need to see if the part number is stamped onto the rotor.

View attachment 702840

These are what I was offered, both say center lock but looks different to me.
View attachment 702841

One has the bit you use to lock rotor on wheel, the bottom one doesn’t. They will both fit centre lock, you may have to recenter calliper after fitting, but that’s straightforward and quick.