Rear cog slipped a bit on me before

[getinthevan]

I've recently become fond of skidding to a stop quickly whilst still seated. Purely because it feels nice, and I don't care much for my current tyres at the moment because I've got some nice continental ones on the way.

On my way home tonight a did a little seated skid to slow down as I approached a set of lights and felt my cog slip.
It worried me a bit, but I carried on riding anyway. A few minutes later I climbed out of the saddle to go up a hill and it slipped again. Probably this time tightening itself back up.

I know the stock cog on my fuji feather is pretty shitty, so can anyone recommend a decent cog and lockring? As I'm still new to this fixed gear lark.

Also, would it be possible to remove the freewheel on the other side of my hub, and attach another fixed cog?

 

[MrGrumpy]

rode lockring less for long enough! If you can get it on uber tight with some threadlock and then go ride some hills, good chance it will never slip! Oh and I ride with just a front brake as well, so partial to rear braking.

 

[smokeysmoo]

I'd get the stock cog and freewheel off a.s.a.p. as they are garbage TBH.

I had to get my LBS to do mine as I couldn't shift the cog, and the stock freewheel is the cheapest piece of $hite Shimano make, so cheap in fact there isn't even a removal tool for it and it has to be destroyed to remove it.

I don't own a bench vice, and that was how the LBS had to remove both sides, both my chainwhip and the Rotafix method wouldn't even touch the cog

If you don't have a chainwhip this is the Rotafix method I mentioned,


View: http://youtu.be/5qIVEpyelP0

To remove the freewheel you need to take the cover off it and let all the bearings fall out, then clamp the whole shebang in the vice and use the wheel as leverage to remove the damned thing.

I still used a locking as threadlock is the work of the devil IMO, but it's horses for courses I guess.

You can't replace the freewheel with another cog on the stock hubs as they are fixed/free. You'd need to change the rear hub/wheel for one that is fixed/fixed.

I didn't replace the freewheel anyway as I only rode fixed, and due to budget restraints I replaced the stock cog with an On-One cog from PX and a Token lockring. If you've got a lockring spanner there's no reason not to use a lockring IMO.

[EDIT] and don't forget to copper slip the thread(s) before refitting whatever you decide on.

 

[MrGrumpy]

If you've got a lockring spanner there's no reason not to use a lockring IMO.

yes true, I should of said that the reason for no lock ring for me was that the threads got damaged getting the lock ring off it was on that tight!

 

[Boris Bajic]

Also, would it be possible to remove the freewheel on the other side of my hub, and attach another fixed cog?

Yes. Quite a few people do that. I'm about to do so as well.

You can even choose the same sprocket size as you have on the flipside, but purists might question your sanity.

 

[shouldbeinbed]

Are you sure it is the rear cog and not the crank splines getting tired and giving a bit of play under a change in load?

 

[getinthevan]

Smokeysmoo, that video you posted was a lifesaver!
I've used his method to tighten it up really tight, and used my friends lockring spanner and a hammer to get the lockring on solid too. It should hold up for the time being until i can afford to buy a new cog/lockring.

I had a feeling the hub might be fixed/free and not fixed/fixed. It's a shame really. Ideally I'd have liked a 19 tooth cog on the other side so i can get all spinny and breeze up hills.

 

[PpPete]

You can put a fixed sprocket on threading for a freewheel.
It is called a "suicide hub". but if you rotafix it on, and then put on a lockring from an old-skool loose-ball BB, and hammer that on too, it's OK if you are not planning to do too many skid stops on that side.