Rear wheel wobble

[sambo241]

Hi all

I have encountered a problem with my Boardman HYB 8.6 commuter. Specifically the rear wheel.

As the title states, i am suffering with a lot of play within the rear wheel of the bike. I have taken the wheel off and noticed a lot of play within the axel on the hub..it is very wobbly. Obviously I know this a problem, but I am unsure what the issue is as i am still learning the ropes when it comes to bike mechanics. My boss at work who has better knowledge of bikes than myself thinks its to do with the bearings in the hub. He believes they are pretty much shot and need replacing. Does this seem like it could be the cause of the unstable wheel?

I know it's difficult to diagnose an issue online compared to in person but I have narrowed it down to it definitely being the rear wheel and I'm almost certain it's to do with the hub.

Also, if this does seem likely to be the fault, is replacing the bearings in the wheel an easy enough task? I've noticed through learning bits here and there that it may possibly require specialist tools to get inside the hub and correct bearing sizes etc. If it's a straight forward process I'll attempt it myself but if you lovely people could advise whether this is better off a LBS job then it would be much appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[fossyant]

The answer is, it depends. You have either cup and cones, or sealed cartridge bearings. As each wear, or come loose, you get the wobble.

You'd need to post a picture of the non-drive side of the hub, and or make/model. Both are relatively easy to replace but I'd watch a few you-tube videos. Does the axel feel smooth to rotate (when wheel out of bike). The issue with cup and cone, is that if bearings are shot, you may get away with cleaning up the races (in the hub) and putting in new bearings, but more often than not, the races are badly pitted, and you'll usually need a new hub (wheel).

Cartridge bearings are a little more simple if worn out, but fitting and removal needs, as a minimum, some sockets and a hammer and care and a block of wood with a hole in.

 

[Joffey]

Deffo bearings. I’d just pop to the LBS if you can spare £50 to sort it. If not there are plenty of YouTube vids that will show you what to do.

 

[Ajax Bay]

View: https://youtu.be/Zsl6Mg6B2zM?t=38

I think it's likely this wheel has cartridge bearings.
The Hunt wheels Hambini is replacing in video comes apart one way but your Boardman wheel (135mm OLD, QRs) will be different.
HTH

 

[sambo241]

fossyant I'll upload a picture when I have a spare moment. Not currently with the bike as I am at work.

Joffey will Halfords sort this kind of issue? Unfortunately they are my closest LBS. I am aware of the reputation they carry though ah


Thanks for the video Ajax Bay!

 

[Cycleops]

In the first instance remove the wheel and see what sort of bearings you have. Might be possible they are not adjusted correctly but if you've done a fair old mileage as it's your commuter likely they'll need replacing.
I'm sure Halfords will be able to do it for you, hope you've got a good one.

 

[sambo241]

Cycleops do I need any specialist tools to have a look at the bearings? It's a Formula QR hub which is what the website says I purchased the bike from. I know the limited information isn't very helpful as I'm not at home where the bike is currently. I also estimate that I've done over a 1000 miles on it since February roughly.

 

[cyberknight]

without knowing if the wheels are cup and cone or cartridge bearings its a bit hard to say .
TBH i only have one bike with cartridge bearings and i havent replaced the bearings yet after about 7 -8 years of summer riding so mine are ready but i will take them to the lbs as i dont know which ones i need .
cup and cone are for me easier to do as i have done loads of them , a basic tool kit will be needed as you will need cone spanners , a normal spanner , chain whip and cassette removal tool to access the bearings .Its easy enough to adjust cup and cone and check the bearings ( wheels new tend to have not much grease and will probably need more ) .
Getting the tightness of the bearings is a bit of a fine art , its easy enough once you have done it a few times so its tight enough to have not wobble but not too tight as to cause drag.
TBH 800 miles your bearings shouldnt be shot unless they have had some serious misuse .

 

[Cycleops]

Seeing as it's a modern bike I'd think it has cartridge bearings. No special tools needed but you'll need a large Allen key to remove the freehub:

View: https://youtu.be/XXZlM5ibl5s

 

[sambo241]

Here are pictures of both sides of the wheel

 

[cyberknight]

looks like cup and cone to me

 

[Cycleops]

That's cup and cone.

 

[Ajax Bay]

do I need any specialist tools to have a look at the bearings

So to service those cup and cone bearings, you need cone spanners (maybe only one) and an adjustable spanner for the lock nut (the hexagonal one you can see in the image). That's all.
Remove QR skewer.
Pull the rubber seal off, gently (there is a risk of a split).
Undo the disc side lock nut and the cone (which has two slim flats which needs a cone spanner, a normal one won't engage). Completely unscrew and remove both.
Do not touch the cassette end lock nut.
Extract axle from the cassette side, with the hub over a cloth, as lots of bearings may fall out.
Remove all bearings and count them (?11).
Clean everything - I use WD40 and paraffin.
Inspect the hub cups (where the bearings roll) and check still smooth.
Could use the current bearings but I'd buy replacements from my LBS (did this a fortnight ago) - v low cost.
Slap in grease, insert (stick in the grease) correct number of bearings, screw everything back up.
Tighten the cones hand tight and then back off 1/2 a turn, and lock (lock nut).
Refit QR and wheel into dropouts; tighten close QR and check the wheel spins and the rim can't be pull/pushed sideways.
(Keep in mind that closing the QR lever compresses the axle which is why the cone must not be tight.)
The lucky person gets this 'right' first time: most mortals need a reiteration or two.
Ride on.

 

[sambo241]

Wow thank you Ajax Bay for the step by step guide. Seems fairly straight forward enough to follow that walkthrough.Think I'll give it a shot and see how i get on and if it fails, take it to LBS.

Just for clarification, can the cassette and disc rotor remain on the wheel whilst i service the bearings or do I have to remove it in order to proceed?

Thank you

 

[Ajax Bay]

Both can stay on but it will be a fair bit easier to clean the right side cup if you take off the cassette.
Tools needed: cassette lock ring tool (and an adjustable spanner to grip it), and a chain whip.