Make sure you replace them correctly, the top jockey wheel has sideways "float" engineered into it to enable indexing to function quietly.
Don't ask me how I know this.![]()
They are easy to tell apart, The top one moves side to side a bit (less than a mil) the bottom one doesn't. Also the top one has a removable metal insert that the bolt clamps tight and the jockey wheel revolves on that, not on the pin.WHAT? Oh ****ing hell!
They are easy to tell apart, The top one moves side to side a bit (less than a mil) the bottom one doesn't. Also the top one has a removable metal insert that the bolt clamps tight and the jockey wheel revolves on that, not on the pin.
I've always found that there is threadlock on the bolts when I replace the original jockey wheels so I presume it has to be there for a reason and always replace it using a low strength red colour threadlock. It would be a disaster for a jockey wheel to come loose miles from home when by simply aplying a drop of threadlock would have saved the day
What about before threadlock came into use, never had a problem in the 70s. (mind I don't use it now, on anything cycle related)Doing a quick search online, it seems that Park Tools recommends using threadlock.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul
End of the day, if manufacturers use it, then they have a reason for using it, and it probably stems from the fact, that bolts have been known to come loose