Refitting rear wheel help

[bobsy852]

Hi guys, fairly new here and fairly new to cycle repairs but had a go at changing my rear tyre and inner tune after a flat on my commute yesterday.
Managed that all ok with tyre levers etc! Job done I thought.....but fixing the wheel back to the bike correctly took me a good hour after that and on the cycle to work again this morning (4miles to work) it was clicking every now and again from the rear and I noticed it was pointing to the left (out of line from the frame).
I tried and tried last night to get it stright and I've still failed!

Can anyone help me with some advice as to exactly how I set the back wheel up properly?
I guess this was the cause of the clicking too (it didn't click before I changed it).

My main problem I was finding last night was holding the bike up in 1 hand while adjusting with another while trying to tighten it up at the same time! It's quite an old bike so none of those quick release mechanisms either I'm afraid. I need more hands probably. I'm sure one of you has managed it before though so I'll look forward to your advice

Thanks for the help.
Rob

(P.S: will it be ok for the 4miles home or is my wheel likely to fall off?)

 

[HLaB]

If you have quick release its only a 2sec job for lbs mechanics, a 30 sec job for me Turn the bike upside down if it help. Being in the smallest cog before you start helps. If you are having problems with the QR loosen it or even remove it (make sure not to loose the end cap/ springs). Lift the chain over the cassette and push the axle into the drop outs (you may have to pull the jockey back to help). Close the QR. Spin the wheel on a little, to sit the chain on the correct cassette. If you are pernickety like me it also helps the alignment of the wheel if you then reopen the QR, pull the brake and whilst holding the brake lever reclose the QR. And importantly don't forge to turn the bike the right way up before you ride it Its a similar procedure with an old axle but you need a spanner.

 

[Globalti]

Assuming the OP has a nutted axle, the problem can be that the axle moves forwards while you are tightening the nuts. Best is to nip the nuts up snug by hand then hold it fully back in the dropouts while gradually tightening them with a spanner, going from one side to the other, so as not to over-tighten one side and cause the axle to go out of alignment.

If the dropouts are slotted horizontally there may be a washer on each end of the axle with a small adjusting screw that pulls against a thingy on the ends of the dropout or there may be a small bolt going through the dropout to limit the travel of the axle in the slot. These need to be adjusted evenly.

 

[the snail]

If you have quick release ...

Er, he doesn't.
I think the problem is that you are trying to hold the bike up whilst tightening the nuts. Either turn the bike upside down, or just do it with the bike on the ground. Most bikes you just push the wheel into the dropouts all the way then tighten.

 

[bobsy852]

Thanks for the help! Yea as I said it's the old fastening method with nuts etc.
I'll try realign it again tonight, probably try it with the bike upside down instead this time.

In the mean time, will it make it the 4miles home do we think?

 

[chillyuk]

In the mean time, will it make it the 4miles home do we think?

You will probably be OK as long as the tyre isn't rubbing on the frame, or the nuts come loose and allow the wheel to move.
When you get home, tip the bike upside down. Slacken off the wheel nuts and centre the wheel between the chainstays. As Globalti said nip the nuts up by hand, then go side to side with the spanner. Keep watching the wheel centreing between the chainstays until the nuts are tight. I find that once the wheel is centred just hold the wheel on the opposite side to the nut you are tightening. Just thumb pressure to stop the wheel moving side to side is all that's needed.

Once you have the knack you will do it more quickly that the time it has taken to write all this!

 

[bobsy852]

Cheers Chilly! I'll let you know how I get on later!

 

[HLaB]

Er, he doesn't.
I think the problem is that you are trying to hold the bike up whilst tightening the nuts. Either turn the bike upside down, or just do it with the bike on the ground. Most bikes you just push the wheel into the dropouts all the way then tighten.

Oops I must admit, I only read the first few lines before dashing out the door

 

[bobsy852]

Well thanks for the advice guys! All fixed! Managed to get it back stright last night.
Last thing that worries me is that it has a bit of play in the wheel, however much I tighten the nuts. Is this normal or is it something like a wheel bearing on the way out?

 

[Keith Oates]

If the nuts are tight and the axle is not moving from side to side then the wheel bearings are probably the cause!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Cubist]

Just to add my favourite method to make sure all is aligned.

Tip the bike upside down and put the axle into the dropouts. Tighten the nuts to finger tight either side, then centre the wheel. Use the point where the wheel passes the chainstays as a reference point and grip the rim and tyre tight with one hand, using the fingers of your gripping hand to keep the gap the same either side of the rim/tyre, and tighten the nuts either side as you do so.

 

[Globalti]

The problem with nutted axles is that if a locknut comes loose a cone will begin to move and the bearings will become slack, then it becomes almost impossible to get the nuts tightened correctly. Getting everything set up and tight takes patience if you don't get it right first time and worn bearings will make the job more difficult. It also helps to have the special cone spanners for this job. If you're not confident, take it to a bike shop and ask them to do it for you.

Try gripping the ends of the axle and wiggling - if there's more than a tiny amount of play the bearings need adjusting. Spin the axle too and if the bearings feel rough you need to think about an overhaul in the not too distant future. But don't worry - old cup and cone bearings will go on for years even when they're a bit worn.

 

[bobsy852]

Thanks again everyone! I'm taking it to my LBS tonight. I can imagine the bearings cant be all that good, it's a 10-15year old bike and they've never been looked at so probably need looking at. I'll leave it with them while I'm on hlliday next week. Thanks again for the tips on refitting though!