Removing a crank... Crank removed; huzzah. Now for the Bottom Bracket.

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Andy in Germany

Legendary Member
I've finally found a frame that I can restore to make a 28" wheel touring bike, and we're having trouble removing the old components. In particular the chainwheel screw thread , were we would normally insert the removal tool, is completely gone.

The frame is from VSF Fahrradmanufaktur and is a rare early butted example, made from Chromoly, so it's worth fighting for.

How would others on the does anyone have a recommendation how to remove the chainwheel? I can get the outer two gears off from the outside, but the inner is inaccessible. I'm open to all suggestions, up to and including using a disc cutter to cut through the crank itself.
 
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ivegotabike

Well-Known Member
google showed me this video, could it help?


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrpIoXxVyTs
 

ivegotabike

Well-Known Member
OP
OP
Andy in Germany

Andy in Germany

Legendary Member
If you have a replacement for the square taper spindle, and don’t need the crankset, a grinder cut across the offending part of the crank will do the trick. Otherwise, R J is your man.
Good luck!

I've wondered about that, as the crank is now only held on by tension and rust, so cutting into the crank will remove the tension.
 

Venod

Eh up
Location
Yorkshire
A length flat bar or round plate, drill and tap the centre of the bar/plate with a suitable hole for a substantial available bolt, drill two suitable holes to bolt the bar/plate to the crank, thread the bolt into the bar/plate and tighten.
 

lenfield

Über Member
If you know any DIY car mechanics then you could always use a ball-joint splitter.

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Tenkaykev

Guru
Location
Poole
The local Tarmac Plant used to borrow our " Big Red 'Uns " if they had an intransigent motor coupling. The legs stood over a metre tall, and the bar that operated the screw thread mechanism was bent out of shape due to the use of a length of scaffold pole used as a " torque converter ". We'd rest the legs on railway sleepers to bring them to the correct height and parallel with the motor shaft, get a couple of big propane torches blasting the coupling and heave away. Having them probably helped when they were looking to renew the maintenance contract.
 
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