Removing crank pins without a crank pin remover.

[Andy in Germany]

I've been trying to remove crank pins without a pin removing tool for a couple of days so far. Using a vice and an old socket from a socket set I got one pin to move a bit, but that was it.

@classic33 suggested drilling into the pin which I can try tomorrow, but as that requires me to socially interact with people from another workshop I was wondering if anyone here had any ideas.

 

[classic33]

I've been trying to remove crank pins without a pin removing tool for a couple of days so far. Using a vice and an old socket from a socket set I got one pin to move a bit, but that was it.

@classic33 suggested drilling into the pin which I can try tomorrow, but as that requires me to socially interact with people from another workshop I was wondering if anyone here had any ideas.

There's the other option given of using a punch to knock the pin through the crank.

Always worth trying to stand on the pedals, but on the opposite side. So if the nut was underneath when the crank arm was in the forward position, twist the cranks through 180° and place the weight on the opposite side. It can loosen the pin slightly, making it "easier" to knock out/remove.

 

[Chris S]

I remove the nut, spray in some WD40 and leave it overnight. I then put the nut back on the pin until their ends are flush and then I hit it with a hammer. That's enough to get it moving. It will take 2 days to remove both pins so it's not something you can do in a hurry.

 

[oldwheels]

Cranks horizontal and a bit of pipe under the pin to take the weight of blows with a hammer. ( ie the pin will go inside the pipe) . Leave the nuts on to protect the thread until the pin moves.

 

[figbat]

I assume we're talking cotter pins here? I do as above - put the nut on flush to the end of the pin, support the opposite side of the crank arm on something solid (I have a big chunk of wood with a hole in the top for such jobs) then have at it with a hammer. However, even with the nut in place this can still damage the pins which are relatively soft - I bent one in such a manner.

Also, if you are replacing them, remember that they need pressing in - just using the nut to pull it into place isn't enough.

 

[MichaelW2]

Use a pipe to the ground to absorb the blows. Hold it in place with your third hand
Dont use steel hammer directly on the pin. Use a brass, aluminium or hardwood block. Hold it place with your fouth hand.

 

[figbat]

Apparently ball-joint splitters can be used too but outcomes vary: could go as planned, could fire the pin across the workshop when it suddenly lets go (hence a good idea to leave the nut on the end) or could snap the tool if it's a cheap one.

 

[T4tomo]

unless its fine piece of vintage 531, skip the whole bike. not worth faffing around with rusted cotter-pins

 

[Andy in Germany]

Thanks for the thoughts. I really only want to save the cranks and make a coat rack out of them as a project with my work experience student.

 

[Andy in Germany]

First pin removed, but now the crank is stuck... Will sort it next week; I'm too tired now.

 

[Chris S]

First pin removed, but now the crank is stuck... Will sort it next week; I'm too tired now.

What method did you use?

 

[MichaelW2]

Use a vice.

View: https://youtu.be/3HdLVpaKv38

 

[Andy in Germany]

What method did you use?

Whatever seemed like a good idea at the time, in this case it was socket and vice until the pin was flush with the crank, followed by whacking the pin through, which to my astonishment worked.

 

[classic33]

Whatever seemed like a good idea at the time, in this case it was socket and vice until the pin was flush with the crank, followed by whacking the pin through, which to my astonishment worked.

Both sides now off?

 

[Andy in Germany]

Both sides now off?

One pin removed so far: I need three hands to get it inthe vice so I'll resume on Monday. The crank is still tight on the axle though.