removing Monsoon freewheel?
- Thread starter hamtyler
- Start date
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Pennine-Paul
Goth on a bike............
I gave up using freewheels years ago and turned to fixed wheel,
As i got sick of replacing them on a regular basis,
I used to use a chisel/old screwdriver and hammer them off,
troublesome ones were subject to an onslaught from the angle grinder
As i got sick of replacing them on a regular basis,
I used to use a chisel/old screwdriver and hammer them off,
troublesome ones were subject to an onslaught from the angle grinder
If you're really concerned about damaging the hub, (and if you're careful there is no reason why you should) and definitely don't want to re-use the freewheel, work on the pin holes on the lock ring. This is a left hand thread and will un-screw the freewheel from the hub as you tighten it but the freewheel will almost certainly be scrap.
In fact, if you are replacing the freewheel because it's become noisy, it's perfectly possible to unscrew the lockring (anti-clockwise) and clean and re-grease the freewheel bearings and pawls. It just requires patience. I've done it on 5 and 6 speed blocks but never a single speed one. If it's excessively loose, take the play out of it by tightening the lock ring.
In fact, if you are replacing the freewheel because it's become noisy, it's perfectly possible to unscrew the lockring (anti-clockwise) and clean and re-grease the freewheel bearings and pawls. It just requires patience. I've done it on 5 and 6 speed blocks but never a single speed one. If it's excessively loose, take the play out of it by tightening the lock ring.
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
The two holes are not there to enable the freewheel to be removed, they're on the free bit rather than the block.
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
The bike shop workshop method of removing such a piss-poor POS component is to place the whole damn thing in the vice and tighten it so hard that the outer ring collapses, crushing the bearings against the block. Then simply rotate the wheel until it seizes and untightens. If, as sometimes happens, it falls apart, simply throw all the shrapnel in the bin and place the body back in the vice.
And then, of course, replace it one with 2 or 4 splines that can be actually removed without having to destroy it.
And then, of course, replace it one with 2 or 4 splines that can be actually removed without having to destroy it.
Ed no-more-lemons
Veteran
- Location
- The Burbs
Hi
I've got the two prong 'suntour' type freewheel puller on the go.
Although I'm not having much joy, trying to remove a five speed ratcheting freewheel.
I've succeeded at this on another wheel. But this one is much older and the prong receivers I've had to file to take the tool, which is clamped in with an old axle.
Currently drizzling WD40 through from the far side of the block.
Just so I'm clear, I understand the puller tool needs to be rotated anti-clockwise to remove the freewheel. Am I interpriting this thread correctly in supposing only the Lockring has a left-hand thread accessed from the pin holes and whether if it comes to it this is the part to feel the wrath of concentrated shock?
Any advice would be great, as I'm not familiar with the inner mechanism of the freewheel and having a go is better than a lot of 'browser learning'.
I've got the two prong 'suntour' type freewheel puller on the go.
Although I'm not having much joy, trying to remove a five speed ratcheting freewheel.
I've succeeded at this on another wheel. But this one is much older and the prong receivers I've had to file to take the tool, which is clamped in with an old axle.
Currently drizzling WD40 through from the far side of the block.
Just so I'm clear, I understand the puller tool needs to be rotated anti-clockwise to remove the freewheel. Am I interpriting this thread correctly in supposing only the Lockring has a left-hand thread accessed from the pin holes and whether if it comes to it this is the part to feel the wrath of concentrated shock?
Any advice would be great, as I'm not familiar with the inner mechanism of the freewheel and having a go is better than a lot of 'browser learning'.
Ed no-more-lemons
Veteran
- Location
- The Burbs
Thanks Tyred
It sure does and is.
I've stopped short of filing back to the locking ring, As the freewheel does work and does not need immediate replacement.
Just a good clean, it does have slight play in it but hopefully will be OK and the spokes-wheel seem a lot stronger than the modern equivilent.
It sure does and is.
I've stopped short of filing back to the locking ring, As the freewheel does work and does not need immediate replacement.
Just a good clean, it does have slight play in it but hopefully will be OK and the spokes-wheel seem a lot stronger than the modern equivilent.
The lock ring which adjusts the bearing will have two holes for a large pin spanner. You can tighten this to take up some of the play if you like. Just use a hammer and punch on the hole and it does have a left hand thread. It should also be possible to dribble a little 3 in 1 oil into it around the lockring to lubricate it.
It's perfectly possible to open it up and rebuild it with new ball bearings and fresh grease but it's not really worth the hassle.
It's perfectly possible to open it up and rebuild it with new ball bearings and fresh grease but it's not really worth the hassle.
