Replace Chainrings - Advice Please

[Wadey]

I'm about to try and replace my chainrings (FSA 50/34) due to wear and tear. I'm getting chain suck and the teeth are looking like shark teeth.
I've watched a number of youtube videos, but thought I would post here for further advice.

Regards,
Paul

 

[si_c]

Depends on your crankset, usually straight forward enough - loosen the bolts, remove the rings and replace. Some cranks need you to remove them from the frame before doing this.

 

[MichaelW2]

Beware slipping allen key. Wear gloves to protect your knuckles and leave a safe direction in case of slip. Chainring teeth are razor sharp

 

[Heigue'r]

Thread the bolts in by hand to get them started on the new chainring,This will help you avoid stripping the threads..DAMHIK

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Not much to it, but here's my two tips.

1) Buy the special chainring bolt holder tool. It is cheap and makes life easy.
2) Don't forget to line up the pin on the side of the large chainring with the crank. It prevents the chain from falling in there and jamming like hell.

Otherwise, just do it. Go for a ride afterwards and drink a beer.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Beware slipping allen key. Wear gloves to protect your knuckles and leave a safe direction in case of slip. Chainring teeth are razor sharp

What sort of fool would do that?

 

[twentysix by twentyfive]

Tighten up gradually around and repeat rather than doing the first tight whilst the rest are slack etc.

 

[Mike_P]

Also after a couple of rides or so thereafter check the chainring bolts to see if any have worked loose.

 

[Gunk]

You might find it easier and almost the same price to buy a complete nearly new crankset off eBay rather than mess about changing the rings.

I picked up a brand new 105 5800 Crankset for £65 recently, it had come straight off a brand new bike as they were upgrading.

 

[Wadey]

Thanks for the advice everyone
The chainrings arrive tomorrow..... Yikes!

 

[12boy]

This may be a bit too late, but make sure your chainrings will work with your chain and rear sprocket as 10 speed chains are a bit narrower than 6-7-8 speed chains. I also second the idea of a chain ring nut wrench that can hold the nut while you tighten the bolt. I grease the bolt before screwing it into the nut, so when it needs to come out the steel and Al aren't corroded together. Anti-seize c ompound also works, I've found. Chain rings are much cheaper than crank arms. I know this probably sounds bizarre, but I wax my chains instead of using oil to lube them. The wax does not pickup up grit like an oil based lube and that oily grit is essentially a grinding compound. The chain ring on my Surly Steamroller must have 20 k miles or more and is still not appreciably worn.

 

[Richard A Thackeray]

No-one appears to have mentioned, @Wadey, but put the chain on the big-ring, when undoing the chain-ring bolts
If the allen-key does slip, & you're not wearing gloves, it'll save sliced knuckles

 

[Drago]

Use an allen socket on a 3/8" ratchet. Allen keys are the tool of the charlatan, only suitable for roadside bodgery not high order master craftmanship. Allen keys on multi tools are the work of Lucifer himself.

 

[12boy]

I prefer my artisanly crafted, genuine pot metal, plastic T-handle Allens I buy at Harbor Freight, an American chain specializing in extremely cheap made in China goods. My Allens cost me $6.00 and that included a little rack thing and different colored handles so it could tell right away what size each was.

 

[Nigelnightmare]

I prefer my artisanly crafted, genuine pot metal, plastic T-handle Allens I buy at Harbor Freight, an American chain specializing in extremely cheap made in China goods. My Allens cost me $6.00 and that included a little rack thing and different colored handles so it could tell right away what size each was.

As long as it's a good tight fit in the bolts is what matters most. IMO