Replacement freehub body for Tiagra 9spd?

[I like Skol]

I'm looking to replace the freehub body on my roadbike as it has been making random cracking noises which I can only think is the pawls in the freehub. The 'crack' can be heard and felt, although the chain doesn't slip noticably. This has been happening infrequently but then occured maybe a dozen times during the M/cr 100 ride last weekend and seems to occur when pedaling under medium pressure and not just when taking up drive but maybe shortly after (difficult to tell as it is so random I can't pinpoint any pattern)

I've decided to change the freehub as it is cheap(?) insurance against being stranded at the roadside. I just need someone to explain the compatibility of the various freehub bodies as there seems to be an awful lot of choices from Shimano. The best price I have found is for a complete 4600 Tiagra rear hub with skewer for only £18.75 inc delivery. My existing hub is the 4500 Tiagra but I think they are compatible? Before anyone says it, I know getting the freehub bolt out might be tricky and I think I can get round that with a couple of old spokes and a vice without damaging the hub.

Is their a cheaper or better way to get a suitable freehub than buying a full hub?

 

[I like Skol]

I think I have found the info I need on a Shimano tech sheet via google.

It seems the same freehub body is suitable for the 4500/4600 and for the 5700 105 rear hub so I am good to go!!!

 

[PpPete]

What baffles me is that you can buy freehub bodies separately but they are more expensive than most whole hubs (except for DA) .

 

[fossyant]

This is exactly what I did when a Deore freehub started to play up - just bought the hub. Skolly all you will need to remove the freehub is a 10mm allen/hex key - insert from 'drive side' and undoo.

 

[MacB]

yep, buy hub, remove new freehub and replace your existing...this avoids the expense/hassle of a wheel rebuild and the stupid price of a seperate freehub.

 

[I like Skol]

This is exactly what I did when a Deore freehub started to play up - just bought the hub. Skolly all you will need to remove the freehub is a 10mm allen/hex key - insert from 'drive side' and undoo.

How did you hold/clamp the hub while undoing the bolt?

 

[fossyant]

You don't !

Removing from a new hub, just hold the hub body in one hand and undo (after removing axel and bearings) - if they are really tight then you may need a vice - never needed to though !

For the wheel it's a piece of cake as you just hold the wheel rim/tyre.

The retaining bolt screws directly into the hub - it's hollow with a small ridge that engages the freehub.

 

[I like Skol]

You don't !

Removing from a new hub, just hold the hub body in one hand and undo (after removing axel and bearings) - if they are really tight then you may need a vice - never needed to though !

For the wheel it's a piece of cake as you just hold the wheel rim/tyre.

The retaining bolt screws directly into the hub - it's hollow with a small ridge that engages the freehub.

Thanks Fossy. I haven't had to do one for years (like the mid 90's probably) but maybe I used to just tighten them up too much as I can't imagine getting the hollow bolt out without a fight

Hub ordered so I get a spare axle, bearings and quick release for less than free

 

[User482]

This is exactly what I did when a Deore freehub started to play up - just bought the hub. Skolly all you will need to remove the freehub is a 10mm allen/hex key - insert from 'drive side' and undoo.

Yep, an old model Deore hub from CRC or similar is the cheapest way to do it. I don't recall having any problems getting the freehub off.