Replacing a rotten exterior door threshold... advice needed.

[MontyVeda]

A friend has a rotten threshold and was asking my advice on repairing it (in other words, asking me to do it)...

That's an image I found online which is illustrative enough. (in fact the page it comes from looks like a good guide)

The frames down to the threshold are still sound so won't need much fettling... just a case of knocking out all the rotten wood down to the brick work and replacing it.

I started to have a harebrained idea that instead of wood, forming a concrete threshold instead, which would be more hard wearing in the long run... but that presents the problem of damp permeating up through the concrete and into the wooden frame. Then i started thinking about putting a barrier down first, either plastic (damp proof course) or bitumen maybe, and forming the concrete threshold on top.

Of course i could do it the normal way, with wood... but would it need to be hardwood or will a treated soft wood do?

One problem my friend has is, when it rains hard, a fast flowing stream develops and runs past the door, which is probably why the previous threshold has gone rotten in less than a decade.

Plastic is a consideration but finding something prefabricated that fits perfectly* might be hard, and plastic mightn't be up to all the foot traffic over the years.

*Wooden shims could make it fit, but then the occasional stream will make those eventually turn to mush.

So, any advice from our cycling builders and joiners?

 

[MichaelW2]

Are you going to have any stop for the door?
You may be able to mount an aluminium threshold onto concrete.

 

[Andy in Germany]

Of course i could do it the normal way, with wood... but would it need to be hardwood or will a treated soft wood do?

One problem my friend has is, when it rains hard, a fast flowing stream develops and runs past the door, which is probably why the previous threshold has gone rotten in less than a decade.

Given the propensity for the landscape to develop into a water feature, the best native wood for this situation would be oak, because it is naturally water resistant and relatively stable outdoors. I don't know what paint is available in the UK, but my approach would be to oil it with Tung oil or similar which enhances these natural abilities. The disadvantage of oil is that you have to reapply it occasionally.

 

[sheddy]

Can the stream be persuaded to go elsewhere ?

 

[Andy in Germany]

Can the stream be persuaded to go elsewhere ?

Are you advocating the Canute approach?

 

[PK99]

I had a rotten hardwood window sill repaired a few months ago. Rotten wood cut out, wood hardener brushed in, oversized piece of hardwood set in place using two part epoxy resin and sanded down to match the existing.

 

[MontyVeda]

Can the stream be persuaded to go elsewhere ?

I've not seen the 'stream' in action but cutting a gutter/culvert into the path running past the door could be an option.

 

[furball]

I'm neither a builder nor a joiner but I had the same problem.
My front door is original to the house which was built in 1915 and it's the only original door left on the street.
My joiner did what you were initially thinking of doing i.e a concrete threshold. He fitted an Exitex double sealing sill with a draught excluder. Prior to the work being done the door was draughty and water leaked in. The work done has solved these issues.

 

[MontyVeda]

I'm neither a builder nor a joiner but I had the same problem.
My front door is original to the house which was built in 1915 and it's the only original door left on the street.
My joiner did what you were initially thinking of doing i.e a concrete threshold. He fitted an Exitex double sealing sill with a draught excluder. Prior to the work being done the door was draughty and water leaked in. The work done has solved these issues.

Thanks for that... do you know if he put down any sort of damp proofing under the concrete threshold?

 

[furball]

Thanks for that... do you know if he put down any sort of damp proofing under the concrete threshold?

I'm not sure but I do know he would have if it was needed.
If I get a chance tomorrow I will take some photos.

 

[furball]

Sorry didn't manage to take pictures today. Will try tomorrow

 

[furball]

Hi, sorry forgot about taking pictures. Better late than never.








There is a rubber strip on the bottom of the door that flicks over the edge of the Exitix fixture. The bottom of the door is basically inside the house ( if that makes sense).
I've noticed a couple of cracks in the cement which I'm pretty sure can be filled. I will probably paint the cement to waterproof it.
The bottom of door jambs were replaced. The door and frame need stripping and redecorating.

 

[Hicky]

I'd look at trying to divert the water of create a soakaway if at all possible.
Depending on the finish required at the end, Oak. Oiled to within an inch of its life. If you use Tanalised softwood it will shrink and wont last as long as oak....reclaimed sleeper or something off marketplace if its a job for a m8. If the water issue isn't solved this problem will just be revisited again at some point, easy to fix and maintain is the key.