Replacing V brake cartridge pads - genius required

[Blue Hills]

Anyone got any hot tips for replacing the things?

I like V brakes for various reasons (several of my favourite bikes have been fitted with them) and of course the cartridge system promises easy brake pad replacement.

But my oh my that dreaded pin - often struggle for ages to get it through both holes in the holder and the pad.

On one of my bikes have got the idea that it's maybe not a hole alignment issue but the **ing holes in the original Shimano holders are just too small.

And the genius who designed this system (surely the pad holding could be changed without changing the essence of V brakes?) of course carefully arranged things so that the vital pin hole is plonked right behind the forks.

Anyone got any hot tips (yes, you're right - spent a wet afternoon inside changing some pads)?

 

[robgul]

First - it's much easier if you remove the brake pad/cartridge unit from the bike (OK, you have to re-fix them and adjust the toe-in etc.) - then giving the cartridges a good clean once you got the old insert out helps to ease the new rubber insert in and pins usually line up OK if the cartridge and pads are the same manufacturer.

The better and cheaper for the inserts option is to buy new Aztec units and ditch the Shimanos - a better fit for the inserts and the pins.

Rob

 

[rogerzilla]

Lubrication with water often helps slide them in. Curved pads only slide in the right way. Also remember Poisson's ratio: pushing something rubber makes it fatter and it will stick in the groove. Try pulling the new pad into the holder instead. I find lightly applying the brakes and rolling the bike often gets pads in or out effortlessly.

 

[Blue Hills]

Lubrication with water often helps slide them in. Curved pads only slide in the right way. Also remember Poisson's ratio: pushing something rubber makes it fatter and it will stick in the groove. Try pulling the new pad into the holder instead. I find lightly applying the brakes and rolling the bike often gets pads in or out effortlessly.

No problem with the pads, it's the dreaded pin.

 

[Vantage]

I use a pair of these
Handy for both removing the pin and replacing it.

 

[Blue Hills]

First - it's much easier if you remove the brake pad/cartridge unit from the bike (OK, you have to re-fix them and adjust the toe-in etc.) - then giving the cartridges a good clean once you got the old insert out helps to ease the new rubber insert in and pins usually line up OK if the cartridge and pads are the same manufacturer.

The better and cheaper for the inserts option is to buy new Aztec units and ditch the Shimanos - a better fit for the inserts and the pins.

Rob

Ta rob. Re your first suggestion, must admit that in my frustration I had contemplated it, but of course that removes most of the advantage of using slip in cartridge pads. Will investigate further on your second tip - I do remember a while ago changing some inserts where all seemed to go freakishly easy - it is possible that both the holders are pads WERE from the same maker. Thanks.

Other suggestions welcome.

 

[mcshroom]

Switch to these and use road pads with an allen key fitting?
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Tektro-720-12-Cyclocross-Cartridge-Brake-Pad-Pair_82071.htm

 

[Blue Hills]

Switch to these and use road pads with an allen key fitting?
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Tektro-720-12-Cyclocross-Cartridge-Brake-Pad-Pair_82071.htm

Thanks for the suggestion mc but I prefer V brakes. I find them near perfect.
And have a good source of cheap pads.
I have some canti brakes with those sorts of pads - on a hewitt - would have got V's if I had known what I know know and a failure of Mr Hewitt not to suggest V's as a valid alternative for my stated intended use.

 

[mcshroom]

Thanks for the suggestion mc but I prefer V brakes. I find them near perfect.
And have a good source of cheap pads.
I have some canti brakes with those sorts of pads - on a hewitt - would have got V's if I had known what I know know and a failure of Mr Hewitt not to suggest V's as a valid alternative for my stated intended use.

Those pads fit v-brakes, though obviously they use 55mm road inserts rather the normal 72mm ones that v-brakes and canti brakes normally use now. I got some with the Tektro RX-5 mini-vs on my tourer.

I'd imagine you can fit the 72mm holders and pads to your canti brakes on your hewitt as well if you like that design of pad/holder. I have Oryx cantis with normal MTB style ones in them.

 

[alicat]

On one of my bikes have got the idea that it's maybe not a hole alignment issue but the **ing holes in the original Shimano holders are just too small.

You could test that idea by trying to insert the pins without the pad in place.

 

[MontyVeda]

They can be fiddly feckers... i use a pair of long nosed pliers to hold the pin and push it through... if it doesn't come out the other side, I rotate the pin 180 degrees and it usually does.

 

[Blue Hills]

You could test that idea by trying to insert the pins without the pad in place.

I have - that's how I discovered the issue.

It explained why the job had so many times proved a near impossibility.

No chance they were going to go in/through.

Only got the pins in in end by some severe squashing of them with some pincers before the final push.

 

[Blue Hills]

By the by of course, some folk reckon that you don't need the *** ing things since the motion of the wheel/brake interface under braking will actually push the pads further into the holders.
While still looking for insertion tips anyone got any views on this?

 

[Vantage]

Personally where brakes are concerned I wouldn't risk it.
In all likelyhood they'd not pop out for the reasons stated, but, unless you're a cat you've only one life. Best look after it.

 

[mcshroom]

By the by of course, some folk reckon that you don't need the *** ing things since the motion of the wheel/brake interface under braking will actually push the pads further into the holders.
While still looking for insertion tips anyone got any views on this?

Don't. I was caught out when I missed putting one in once. Rolling backwards slightly while holding the brakes can remove the pad without you noticing, so you find out when you next try to brake as nothing happens.