Restoring old leather saddles........

[John the Canuck]

just bought an elderly Brooks for the Peugeot to see what all the fuss is about
the saddle is in good repair other than a lot of small surface glazing, and looks very dry

did the usual Google and now have LOTS of reading to do - before i start - any tips from past experience..?
cheers
[ a Horse Riding Forum suggested immersing the whole saddle in 5L of cooking oil.......

 

[IncoherentJeff]

I got some Doc Martins Wonder Balsam for my boots at first, I was so impressed I use it on my motorcycle leathers now too.
No experience of using it on saddles yet tho.

http://www.drmartens.com/uk/Accessories-Shoe-Care/Dr-Martens-Wonder-Balsam/p/AC025001
Cheaper alternatives may be available.

 

[John the Canuck]

''...The natural ingredients clean and protect leather to keep it soft and supple...''

this appears to be the BIG stumbling block
as many say don't use anything which will make the leather supple - just need it weatherproof

ie use Brooks Proofide only ... as usual on t'internet - the more you read - the less you are sure about...................

 

[Gravity Aided]

Proofhide has carnuba and paraffin wax, as well as beeswax, IIRC. But in what ratios I am unsure. We used to use paraffin, carnuba, beeswax and beef tallow in equal parts on leather, but I would recommend Proofhide, as that is what Brooks says works best. Another alternative I have heard good things about is Bookbinders Leather Dressing.

 

[sreten]

Hi,

The point of a leather saddle is it moulds itself to the first user by
stretching and indenting at the sit bones point, and if you get
the leather right, just the right amount in overall elasticity of
the saddle to make it very comfortable.

Like second hand leather shoes, a used leather saddle may
or may not suit you, as you cannot break the leather in.

FWIW and don't quote me on this : Leather relaxes when
wet and shrinks as it dries. Riding a wet saddle is a disaster
but a cycle of wetting and drying might restore the saddle
to near its original shape, to be reformed by the next user.

rgds, sreten,

 

[raleighnut]

Use Proofide only on a Brooks. A gentle wash down with warm water and a green plastic scourer then allow to dry naturally in the shade but in a draft first may remove some of the grime, but use a cable tie or a luggage strap around the saddle to keep the shape (I have a cable tie adjusted to the right size that I slip over the nose of my B17 & B17n every time they get wet). Then work in proofide well and leave overnight occasionally seeing if there are any dry patces where it needs a bit more (best tool for this is an index finger) then buff off the excess after a day or so
Be very careful with the tension nut though I've seen saddles that have been ripped apart by someone trying to take the sag out of a dry saddle that had been neglected so a piccy or two would help before I post anything on that.
BTW I'm presently saving towards a sprung B67 for the Trike that will eventually end up on my "sit up and beg" when I'm back on 2 wheels which will make me up to 6 bikes Brooks equipped (all different models)

 

[John the Canuck]

Use Proofide only on a Brooks. ..................... so a piccy or two would help before I post anything on that.
..................

Proofide ordered - and thanks for the cleaning tips.....

not received the saddle yet - but here's a pic from the advert - quoted as a B15
not in great condition - but cheap enough to try !!

.
john

 

[Gravity Aided]

Well, it's not going to get in any better condition sitting on a windowsill. But seriously, it looks good and solid around the rivets, even if the surface shows a good deal of wear.

 

[raleighnut]

Proofide ordered - and thanks for the cleaning tips.....

not received the saddle yet - but here's a pic from the advert - quoted as a B15
not in great condition - but cheap enough to try !!

.
john

That looks to be in good nick, tension looks OK small scratches/marks can be rubbed off with Wet'n'Dry 400 grit (it was developed for the shoe trade) lubricated with a smear of white spirit, then Proofide as earlier post. For the underside brush it with Proofide (small paintbrush) then leave it and you can use what's left in the brush to do the top then work it in well.

 

[John the Canuck]

^^^^^^^@Gravity
''...pic from the advert..''.....

conditioning stuff ordered - worth a try ..!
nameplate is ok - may just redo the black paint...or not.?

 

[John the Canuck]

That looks to be in good nick, tension looks OK

small scratches/marks can be rubbed off with Wet'n'Dry 400 grit ...... lubricated with a smear of white spirit, .............

thanks...that's encouraging

wont that leave a mark ie removing the top surface..?

 

[raleighnut]

^^^^^^^
''...pic from the advert..''.....

conditioning stuff ordered - worth a try ..!
nameplate is ok - may just redo the black paint...or not.?

Nah , that'd spoil the look, just a good buffing when you do the top to retain the patina. I wouldn't think it needs washing either, looks a good un.
Only thing now is a Carradice saddlebag , or do I remember you having one.
Edit- 400 grit should be smooth enough just blend any marks in DO NOT try to completely remove them

 

[sreten]

Hi,

Is it just me ? Or can you clearly see the sit bones positions stretched into the saddle ?

rgds, sreten.

 

[John the Canuck]

................Only thing now is a Carradice saddlebag , or do I remember you having one.

too expensive -- looking for a small roll type bag just for a tube, levers, CO2 caps, wallet

 

[raleighnut]

too expensive -- looking for a small roll type bag just for a tube, levers, CO2 caps, wallet

If you think Carradice are expensive then do not look at the Brooks saddlebags and tool rolls.