phil_hg_uk
I am not a member, I am a free man !!!!!!
How do you decide how far back or forward to move the saddle I have tried the hanging a piece of string from the knee and to be honest it seems to be hanging right in a number of positions.
Saddle position forward/back
- Thread starter phil_hg_uk
- Start date
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HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
Mine was established by a bike fit at a lbs.
Gerry Attrick
Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
Whatever is comfortable for you. The plumb line method is only a starting point.
GrasB
Veteran
- Location
- Nr Cambridge
First things first, KOPS doesn't work unless you have the rest of your body in a relatively small position range. The key angle is the max/min thigh to spine angle, this will dictate how far over the BB you'll be. A very upright position & you'll want to be a long way behind the BB, go towards a more TT like position & you'll want to be further over the BB. What ever the position if it feels right it's probably okay for you, so pick what you prefer.
I ride with a steep seat tube angle & my saddle a long way forwards, my knee is probably closer to being over the tips of my toes than the ball of my foot, however my torso is very low. This is comfortable for me & doesn't put a lot of pressure on my hands so I can ride for hours. Other people will tell you all kinds of things about balancing on the bike & it's a rule that happens to work with their bike fit but the fundamental thing is this - get the thigh/spine position correct then you can work out the body rotation which then dictates the seat position relative to the BB & the handle bars relative to the seat/BB.
I ride with a steep seat tube angle & my saddle a long way forwards, my knee is probably closer to being over the tips of my toes than the ball of my foot, however my torso is very low. This is comfortable for me & doesn't put a lot of pressure on my hands so I can ride for hours. Other people will tell you all kinds of things about balancing on the bike & it's a rule that happens to work with their bike fit but the fundamental thing is this - get the thigh/spine position correct then you can work out the body rotation which then dictates the seat position relative to the BB & the handle bars relative to the seat/BB.
potsy
Rambler
- Location
- My Armchair
I find the cack handed approach works for me, I never move it less than an inch at a time
Pure luck has got mine into an almost decent position
Pure luck has got mine into an almost decent position
corshamjim
New Member
- Location
- Corsham
The advice which seems to make most sense to me is: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm (ymmv)
It's a shame it's usually not as easy to move the handlebars back and forth as it is to move the saddle.
It's a shame it's usually not as easy to move the handlebars back and forth as it is to move the saddle.
I read that Peter White article when fretting over the set up for my audax bike. Prior to then, I'd been reading various theories and opinions over what was the best, taking measurements and performing calculations... and just getting more confused. I even had a professional fitting done.
I found I was either getting contradictory opinions or results that I couldn't translate onto my bike, for whatever reason. It seemed all about achieving a mythical 'best' position without regard to me or my bike. I recall now reaching a point where I just said 'sod it' and began to experiment, making changes that felt right (but noting the previous position as a base) based on nothing more than where I felt I wanted to be on the bike. If I didn't feel comfortable after,say, 30 minutes of riding then I'd visualise the position I felt I wanted and try and get to that. As I couldn't play much with the bars that meant the saddle and cleat position.
As a consequence, each of my bikes is different. Saddle height and fore-aft varies on each (not by much, for sure, but none-the-less different). In fact, when I changed to a Brooks saddle (on my audax bike) I recall that I found a slightly lower position to be more comfortable than on the original San Marco Rolls! I'm pretty sure Peter White set me on that path of self-discovery since I recognised his words when I read them just now, and recall the effect they had on me. No 2 riders are alike, and nobody can tell you where you'll feel comfortable, so you have to feel confident to start at a position and tinker.
I found I was either getting contradictory opinions or results that I couldn't translate onto my bike, for whatever reason. It seemed all about achieving a mythical 'best' position without regard to me or my bike. I recall now reaching a point where I just said 'sod it' and began to experiment, making changes that felt right (but noting the previous position as a base) based on nothing more than where I felt I wanted to be on the bike. If I didn't feel comfortable after,say, 30 minutes of riding then I'd visualise the position I felt I wanted and try and get to that. As I couldn't play much with the bars that meant the saddle and cleat position.
As a consequence, each of my bikes is different. Saddle height and fore-aft varies on each (not by much, for sure, but none-the-less different). In fact, when I changed to a Brooks saddle (on my audax bike) I recall that I found a slightly lower position to be more comfortable than on the original San Marco Rolls! I'm pretty sure Peter White set me on that path of self-discovery since I recognised his words when I read them just now, and recall the effect they had on me. No 2 riders are alike, and nobody can tell you where you'll feel comfortable, so you have to feel confident to start at a position and tinker.
Davidc
Guru
- Location
- Somerset UK
I gave up with all the guidance a long time ago. Trial and error for best comfort has ruled ever since.
I've found it varies from bike to bike, and saddle to saddle on each bike.
I've found it varies from bike to bike, and saddle to saddle on each bike.
MacB
Lover of things that come in 3's
- Location
- Farnborough, Hampshire
To give you some ballpark numbers to start with then I find this fit site pretty good:-
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&INTRO_LINK=NOREDIR
GrasB makes a good point around the pivot idea, if you imagine a triangle between saddle, bottom bracket and handlebars. By altering saddle/bars position then you're pivoting that triangle around the BB which is, obviously, your fixed point. Your fitness/flexibility will matter as well, the more you pedal and the stronger your core muscles then the less weight will be supported by your hands/arms and backside, with the reverse being true as well.
Unless you're doing specific riding, like time trialling, then your saddle nose will probably be in the range of 50-100mm behind the centre of the BB. Easiest way to measure this is to stand the bike upright with the back wheel touching a vertical wall. Measure from wall to centre of BB and then wall to nose of saddle and subtract the latter from the former to get saddle setback.
Use the fit calculator above, or some form of KOPs, to get a starting point and then experiment, I like Yellos example of trying to visualise where you'd like to be as you ride. Remember that sliding the saddle back will effectively raise the saddle height and vice versa. The saddle naturally move back the higher it is as a function of the seat tube angle. So a taller person may need an inline seatpost to achieve the same saddle setback as a shorter person with a setback seatpost.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO&INTRO_LINK=NOREDIR
GrasB makes a good point around the pivot idea, if you imagine a triangle between saddle, bottom bracket and handlebars. By altering saddle/bars position then you're pivoting that triangle around the BB which is, obviously, your fixed point. Your fitness/flexibility will matter as well, the more you pedal and the stronger your core muscles then the less weight will be supported by your hands/arms and backside, with the reverse being true as well.
Unless you're doing specific riding, like time trialling, then your saddle nose will probably be in the range of 50-100mm behind the centre of the BB. Easiest way to measure this is to stand the bike upright with the back wheel touching a vertical wall. Measure from wall to centre of BB and then wall to nose of saddle and subtract the latter from the former to get saddle setback.
Use the fit calculator above, or some form of KOPs, to get a starting point and then experiment, I like Yellos example of trying to visualise where you'd like to be as you ride. Remember that sliding the saddle back will effectively raise the saddle height and vice versa. The saddle naturally move back the higher it is as a function of the seat tube angle. So a taller person may need an inline seatpost to achieve the same saddle setback as a shorter person with a setback seatpost.
Fab Foodie
hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
- Location
- Kirton, Devon.
I find the Peter White article gives workable advice and the principles to get you on the road to comfort, get the 'balance' right - saddle to pedals and then bring the bars back/forward to meet. All methods are a start, the rest is fine tuning.
OP
OP
phil_hg_uk
I am not a member, I am a free man !!!!!!
Thank you for all your help I think when I get time I read the Peter White article and will bolt the bike to the turbo trainer and have a fiddle around with seating postions and see where I end up.
