Shimano cassette installation

[400bhp]

Great thread

 

[Zoiders]

You DO need a chain whip to remove a correctly tightened lockring. It shouldn't be uber-tight but at least a few notches with an adjustable spanner, after taking up the initial slack, by hand.

What he said.

 

[sbseven]

I would have to say no to that.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...eSystem/SI-R740G-En_v1_m56577569830612825.pdf

 

[Zoiders]

http://techdocs.shim...69830612825.pdf

And they remain wrong.

It's backside covering, factory fitted lock rings can be a complete and utter arse to remove if they have been in place for long enough.

It's over kill and the design does not require or need it.

 

[sbseven]

And they remain wrong.

It's backside covering, factory fitted lock rings can be a complete and utter arse to remove if they have been in place for long enough.

It's over kill and the design does not require or need it.

I'm just quoting manufacturers' torque recommendations...

Campag recommend 50Nm: http://www.campagnol...s_Sprockets.pdf
SRAM recommend 40Nm: http://www.sram.com/...415-000-000.pdf
Shimano recommend 30-50Nm: http://techdocs.shim...69830612825.pdf

 

[CharlieB]

Ok, back to this one.

Tried to fit new cassette last night on to brand new wheel, with spacer as recommended for 7 speed cassette.
Cassette is still not firmly attached even with the lockring done up tightly.
Is a second spacer the answer?

 

[Zoiders]

Ah ha - 7 speed on an 8 speed free hub body, yes you will want 3 mm of spacers to pack it out.

 

[CharlieB]

…and presumably therefore, I'll need to adjust the limit screws on the rear mech?

 

[Zoiders]

The rest position on the smallest sprocket should be not far off if it spaces correctly toward the locknut end of the freehub body but I would err on the side of caution and index from scratch.