Question 1. Yes.
Question 2. Because sometimes you get the component parts and have to assemble them yourselves. Do t worry about turning your bike upside down, it only affects the performance for the first stroke of the brakes.
You can get some astonishing bargains if you search around.
Currnt Deore (M615) SLX (m675) and XT (M785) are virtually identical. M666 mysteriously changed into M675 overnight. I have both and they are identical. Deore don't have tool free reach adjust, SLX have tool free reach adjust and XT have tool free reach, and free stroke adjuster screws. XT reservoir caps are shiny, like chrome shiny.
In operation they all feel the same good powerful and effective brakes. I have both types of SLX and one bike with XT.
Bleeding is simple. You need a syringe, some mineral brake oil, a piece of narrow gauge plastic tubing. You can get a kit off
eBay from epicbleedsolutions for next to no money.
To fit the new reservoir/lever use an 8mm spanner to unscrew the inline connector at the lever end. Use a sharp Stanley knife to cut off the last cm or so of hose that has the old olive and insert stuck in them. Make sure the cut is absolutely square. Slide the plastic cover back onto the hose if you took it off, then the inline connector. Then the new olive. Then hold the end of the hose in a pair of pliers and push the barbed insert into the end, tapping it home with a small hammer whilst holding it firm with the pliers. It must fit flush.
Now push the end of the hose into the female end of the reservoir, slide the olive up to the end, and then hold it as firm as you can as you screw the male end of the inline connector into the female. To visualise what is happening, the flat end of the insert is pushed up against the inside face of the reservoir, lining the hole up with the outlet. The olive is soft brass and is squashed into place along with a bit of the hose, forming a hydraulic seal compressed as the two halves of the connector come together. Tighten it as much as you can with hand force, but don't overdo it with long tools, it is possible to knacker the connector.
With your bike upright in a stand loosen the reservoir /lever clamp and turn it horizontal. Use a star key/ t10 to undo the reservoir cap screw and put it somewhere safe. Tie a rag around and under the reservoir as you are goin g to spill some fluid.
Take the pads out of the caliper and put some folded card between the Pistons. Use gentle pressure with a plastic tyre lever to push the Pistons back into their housing, or if you aren't hamfisted, use a flat bladed screwdriver between the pads before you take them out.
Next, put an 8mm ring spanner around the bleed nipple on the caliper, and fit the Syringe half full of mineral oil onto the nipple. Turn the ring spanner to open the bleed nipple a half turn, and use the syringe to force fluid into the system. This will push any air up the hose and out of the reservoir port. As soon as you are pushing clean fluid out of the port, turn the ring spanner to close the nipple, then replace the reservoir port cap screw.
Clean up with IPA and replace the pads. The first time you put the wheel back in you'll need to gently pump the lever to push the Pistons to the right position, and that's it.
