Should I refurb or send for scrap metal?
- Thread starter newts
- Start date
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midlife
Legendary Member
Looks to me like a lightweight Raleigh Lenton variant.
This website helps with numbers sometimes
https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html
This website helps with numbers sometimes
https://www.kurtkaminer.com/TH_raleigh_serials.html
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midlife
Legendary Member
Peter Kohler has written about the Lenton, here for example but also on Sheldon Brown.wonder if your forks have been changed.
https://on-the-drops.blogspot.com/2016/12/the-raleigh-lentons-1948-1960.html
https://on-the-drops.blogspot.com/2016/12/the-raleigh-lentons-1948-1960.html
biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
Not sure re acetone never used it
D
Deleted member 1258
Guest
Looks ideal for a fixed wheel conversion, spend the minimum amount on it and use it as a runabout.
OP
OP
newts
Veteran
Thanks for the link & it led me onto this
https://on-the-drops.blogspot.com/2016/12/the-clubmans-1946-1951.html
@biggs682 is indeed correct, i'm sure it's a Rudge Areo Clubman c1951
the page tells us the following;-
Raleigh, Humber & Rudge only differing by their fork crowns
1950 chrome fork ends, chainstays & rearstays
brazed on Sturmey-Archer cable pulley boss
Bayliss-Wiley large flange Continental hubs, Dunplop HP Stainless steel rims
The revised Clubman also benefited from the new range of alloy shell hub gears introduced in late 1949 by Sturmey-Archer. Supplied "stock" with flip-flop fixed and free single gear, any of the Sturmey-Archer hub gears could be fitted at extra cost including those made specifically for club riding.
FIL Had the deraileur gears fitted & swapped to flat handlebars (& that paint job!), he says the Brooks saddle went in the late 70's.
Apart from that everything is as it should be.
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si_c
Guru
That looks like a nice project bike. I wouldn't scrap it, that's an utter waste.
I'd spend the time to strip the frame of parts, and thoroughly clean it, there is a little surface rust there clearly, but you should be able to clean that off with minimal effort. Once you've done that I'd spray it with a clearcoat to prevent any more damage to the paint and preserver the patina.
Tidy up and clean all the parts, and consider a fixed/single speed conversion as mentioned above (that crank is practically begging for it) and the hubs are basically ready for it too.
I woudn't re-use the rims if they are stainless steel, I'd swap them out for something newer, a Halo Retro for example and re-use the hubs, new spokes throughout.
It really depends whether you want to spend any money on it, if you are able to though you'll get a really nice retro bike at the end of it.
I'd spend the time to strip the frame of parts, and thoroughly clean it, there is a little surface rust there clearly, but you should be able to clean that off with minimal effort. Once you've done that I'd spray it with a clearcoat to prevent any more damage to the paint and preserver the patina.
Tidy up and clean all the parts, and consider a fixed/single speed conversion as mentioned above (that crank is practically begging for it) and the hubs are basically ready for it too.
I woudn't re-use the rims if they are stainless steel, I'd swap them out for something newer, a Halo Retro for example and re-use the hubs, new spokes throughout.
It really depends whether you want to spend any money on it, if you are able to though you'll get a really nice retro bike at the end of it.
OP
OP
newts
Veteran
I was hoping the blue paint applied in the late 50's by FIL would come off leaving plenty of original paint underneath.
I've tried all chemicals, acetone , paint stripper, meths etc, it will only come off with a hot air gun.
The steerer tube does give a clue to it's former glory.
I've tried all chemicals, acetone , paint stripper, meths etc, it will only come off with a hot air gun.
The steerer tube does give a clue to it's former glory.
