Smart Phone Cycling – iPhone Heavy

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BRounsley

Über Member
I’ve seen a lot of posts with people asking about using a smartphone as an alternative to a dedicated standalone cycle computer. So I thought I put my personal experience into a post. I’ve used several models of iPhones over the years so this post is written from this angle. I currently use an iPhone 5.

The USP of a standalone cycle computer devices is it has been designed and packaged to be mounted on a bicycle. The hardware is streamlined resulting in advantages such as superior battery life. Mounting your phone is never going to be as convenient but I think the phone has other advantages that I believe make up for these minor inconveniences.

I’ve seen people post about bad experiences with phones. I was an early adopter starting with the first GPS enabled iPhone (iPhone 3G) and the first cycle apps. This was a trying time. Rubbish multitasking (a phone call closing your app). Below par apps/software. No external devices support for things like heart rate monitors. Not the greatest of GPS reception. Originally there was no dedicated handlebar mounts, I had to make my own. It was second class solution and a standalone cycle computer was undoubtedly the better option. These days are over.

Battery

The number one concern with the phone approach is also one of the easiest to solve. My iPhone5 with everything blazing (GPS, Screen, Data 3G, Bluetooth, WiFi) will scrape 4 hours. If you’re out all day or dependent on it for navigation, then this is not good enough. This is easily solved by hooking the phone up to an external battery. I currently use the Topeak Power Pack which is a neat solution that velcro’s under the stem. I previously stuck a cheap (£20 off Amazon) battery in a frame bag. Both of these battery charge the phone 3+ times so with a fully changed phone to start (4 phone battery cycles in total) you’re talking 15+ hours.

Phone Mount

The assumption is you’ll want to see the phone screen while pedalling, so you’ll need to mount the phone on the handle bars. It’s a real advantage having a popular handset. The more popular the phone the more likely a company will produce a dedicated cycle mount for it. It’s something to consider when choosing your next phone. The iPhone is very well catered for. I currently use the Topeak Ride Case II for iPhone 5 which I’ll give 8/10. Topeak have some new interesting cases coming out, including one that has the battery built in (I know this had been done before but Topeaks stem cap mount is excellent).

External Devices

Traditionally external devices, such as heart rate monitors, cadence sensors used Ant+ to communicate. So for your phone to work you would need some sort of plugin Ant+ dongle. Ant+ is still alive but more and more devices are moving to Bluetooth 4.0 (the low power version of Bluetooth). Bluetooth has advantages over Ant+, the biggest being it’s used in just about everything else where Ant+ is more just in the fitness world. It now means you can get heart rate monitors, cadence sensors, power meters etc. that will communicate with your phone via Bluetooth. I use the Wahoo heart rate monitor, which is excellent and the Topeak cadence sensors. The first iPhone to support Bluetooth 4.0 was the iPhone 4S any iPhone since supports it (4S, 5, 5S, 5C…).




Apps /Software

One of the killer advantages of the phone approach is it’s just a platform and you’re not tied to a piece of software/app. This has allowing developers to go out and do some clever stuff. Most phones will support multitasking so you can run many apps at the same time for different purposes.

Cycle apps fall into 3 broad functions with some Apps doing some or all of these functions.

Cycle Computer – How fast, how far, how long, what’s your heart rate etc. Typically these use the Phones GPS to calculate this. There are too many to mention.

Social/Tracking – This is tracking where you have been and getting that ride data onto a website. It could be for a competitive reason, Strava segment hunting. It could be to analysing your metric for improvement. It can just be a diary of your rides and a way to share them. I use Strava, for a bit of all the above. It was nice reviewing my Northern Ireland adventure before the pros tackled the same roads at the Giro. With the a phone being online it makes this a one button process to wirelessly upload

Navigation – This is a more complex subject. You can have “turn by turn” navigation, like the sort you use in a car. The example being you put in an address and the app routes your there. I rarely use this type but when I do, I use the TomTom SatNav app, which has a cycling mode (no motorway cycling for me). TomTom is pretty pricey but I original bought it to use in the car. The app is great and I’ve got my money worth over the years as a car satnav. Being on my phone it’s always in my pocket.

I prefer the other approach, which is to the follow a line/route on a rolling map. I typically pre-plot my route online (I use GPSies with a bit of Google Street View to make sure I’m not on a dual carriageway or a farm track) taking in the back lanes and the road less travelled. I upload these planned routes to my phone as a file (I just email it to my phone, no plugging a wire in). The route appears as line on the map. I then navigate by following this line on a rolling map with me position always in the centre of the map. I can also re-cycle any routes I’ve done in the past by saving it as a track/route. I use MotionX mainly because it was the first app to get it right and it does everything I need it to do. Most organised rides also provide these files in advance and having the route has saved me couple of time from taking the wrong turn (onto a different but very similarly signposted ride!!).

With any navigation apps the thing that costs the money to produce is the maps. Google provide “free” maps but in reality it’s a tool they uses to make (lots of) money in other ways. Therefore Google don’t let just any app developer store their maps locally on the phone, what’s in it for them! This means a lot of navigation apps (often the free ones) bring the map tiles down “over the air”, as and when you need the next map tile. This is because Google allow them to do this. It has an advantage as the app will take up very little of your phones storage (maps are massive) but it has some big disadvantages. It can cane your phone data, it can be really slow to bring the maps tiles down and at worst you can be somewhere without phone reception (so no map). Some apps come with the maps installed, like TomTom hence the big cost. Some apps allow you download the maps in advance. MotionX allows you to download “Open Cycle Maps” in advance. “Open Cycle Maps” are open source built by their users so that’s why they are free to use.

One thing I get askes a lot is does GPS uses phone data and therefore will it cost money. The answer is no. You can use GPS abroad and not come back to a £1k phone bill! But the apps you are running may be using data (the example downloading the map titles over the phone network) so it may be something you need to check for each app.

Online Cycling

Software developers are latching onto the fact your Phone, so therefore your ride, is online. MotionX for example allows you to broadcast your position (pin on the map) so other rides know where you are. Great if your mates know you’re 1 mile down the road so they will wait an extra few minutes in the café. Strava now does live segment updates. It will be interesting to see where this all leads.

It’s telling that the new features on the Garmin range (e.g. 810) are playing catch-up to the features you natural get from using a phone (posting location, uploading rides over the air, weather! etc). It’s more telling they do this by tethering it to your phone!

I’m obviously writing this as an iPhone fanboy by my personal prediction is the bike satnav will become a niche product in the same way very few people still use iPods, because of the all-conquering smartphone.

I hope this helped.
 
Last edited:

summerdays

Cycling in the sun
Location
Bristol
Interesting, I'm quite backward in using technology so there's quite a bit of information in there for me. So I could run two tracking apps at the same time for example?

Presumably the more apps you are running the more power you eat up.
 

DefBref

Über Member
Location
Whitehaven
Good post, and I used to do the same external battery, handlebar mount etc. Until about 6 months ago, I hit a pothole at speed and the phone flew out of the mount and smashed into the ground. Wouldn't switch back on and both the back and front were smashed to bits. Bought a Garmin the same day and never looked back.

Luckily the phone was an older phone (iphone4s) that I had upgraded and was only used for biking, otherwise if it had been my main phone, it would have meant an expensive repair/replacement, instead I just accepted the loss.
 

John the Monkey

Frivolous Cyclist
Location
Crewe
Interesting, I'm quite backward in using technology so there's quite a bit of information in there for me. So I could run two tracking apps at the same time for example?

Presumably the more apps you are running the more power you eat up.
FWIW, I run three - Map My Ride (b/c friends use it), Endomondo (b/c Cyclechatters use it) and Sports Tracker (b/c it has all my mileage in since I first started using it with my Nokia N82). They run concurrently, on a Galaxy SII initially, and a Galaxy S4 now.

I use them as recorders (i.e. they are on, but the phone screen is off, and the phone in a top tube bag). Live display I leave to a cheap wired computer on my bars. On the rare occasions I want the screen (for navigation) I'm usually on a tourer, and stick the phone in the map case on my handlebar bag.

There probably is an additional battery hit, over using one app alone, but I rather suspect it's dwarfed by running the GPS &c.

For navigation, I use a combination of the Bike Hub app, and the Sustrans NCN map (the latter is static, the former offers turn by turn navigation, based on Cyclestreets).

On live tracking, Sports Tracker has offered it for years - I used to live track my commutes so Mrs M could see when I was nearing home.
 

yello

Guest
Nice post - lots of useful info and thoughts.

I'm one of those that prefers their phone to be a phone, mainly because I want it to work if I do have a problem and need to speak to someone. I'd worry about the phone being damaged (an off, rain, whatever) and don't like the thought of mounting them prone on my handlebars. I also think using a phone for navigation/tracking is a bit of a compromise and, generally speaking, compromise doesn't lead to reliable usage, ime. I've played with a couple of Strava/Endomondo style apps and I've had patchy results. However, I fully appreciate that is difference strokes for different folks though and there is a solid reason for using a smartphone as an all-in-one solution. In my case, I had my Garmin (a 305) YEARS before getting a smartphone, so that's possibly the major factor in preferring to use my phone only as a phone!

That all said, I do have a couple of navigation apps on it (Sygic and Osmand) that use off-line maps (so no data connection needed). Osmand is free (with a limit to the number of maps you can load) and Sygic has a one-off cost - I think I paid around $40 for Western Europe. I like Sygic, it works - it'd be better on a higher spec phone though!

I too tend to follow pre-prepared tracks (I user a number of sites, GPSies included, as the mood grabs me). I carry my phone at all times on the bike but have never used the navigation apps. I don't use tracker apps either, but have played with Glympse. I don't think I really have a use for that kind of thing.

Battery life is not an issue for me either. I have a battery pack plus charger from my hub dynamo. That said, the vast majority of my rides don't require extra battery life; my Garmin lasts more than 12 hours!
 

John the Monkey

Frivolous Cyclist
Location
Crewe
Not for bikes (afaik) so slightly off topic, but the best free navigation I've seen so far is Nokia Drive - comes preinstalled on the phones (even the lowly Lumia 620) & allows the pre-installation of maps and turn by turn navigation (so no data charges incurred). (Google maps is ok, but you can't preload maps or navigation, so once you're over your data allowance, that's yer lot).

We've used it quite a bit (most notably for finding the new retail park in Boulogne), and my son used it for finding his way around Berlin on a school trip (using the walking directions). Brilliant extra on the Nokia Windows phones - I hope Microsoft continue to support it following their acquisition of Nokia, as it's a real benefit to owning the handsets.
 
OP
OP
BRounsley

BRounsley

Über Member
Just echoing what others have said.

The main battery drain on the phone is the screen, followed by having GPS on. Running extra apps makes little difference.

You can save power by switching wifi off, turning the screen brightness down etc. but I never bother. If you’re doing something “epic” just get an additional battery (£10 a pop off Amazon).

I’ve also had an early phone holder fail on me but the Topeak stem cap mount is rock solid (it’s made of metal and screwed in). I have no concerns about mounting my phone with it. I’m currently using a Topeak RideCase2, no issues with its waterproof-ness but I will be buying one of their new “weatherproof” cases in the future. These look like the perfect case to me. I think I’ll get the one with the built in battery when it's released but it’ does appear very overpriced (“Topeak Weatherproof RideCase with PowerPack”).

As for the convenience I think it takes me longer to put my phone in a waterproof cover and zip it into my jersey pocket as it does to mount it on the bike!
 

jayonabike

Powered by caffeine & whisky
Location
Hertfordshire
Thanks but no thanks, I'd rather use a garmin. It also means my phone battery has enough charge should I need to make an emergency call out in the middle of nowhere.
 

John the Monkey

Frivolous Cyclist
Location
Crewe
Depends how long you're out for, but I had 60% or so after 3 1/2 hours out with the Galaxy S4. I could probably save more by switching off WiFi and turning data sync off, but I've never felt the need.

Crucially,I don't have £200 for a Garmin, so the choice is made, really :smile:

But, ime, if you have a reasonably modern phone, and aren't Audaxing, a smart phone will do a decent job.
 
OP
OP
BRounsley

BRounsley

Über Member
Thanks but no thanks, I'd rather use a garmin. It also means my phone battery has enough charge should I need to make an emergency call out in the middle of nowhere.

It’s funnily the opposite, because my phone is on charge (via the battery) my phone will have 100% power throughout the ride.

So it’s less likely to be flat (especially if you leave a power hungry app running by mistake when it’s in your pocket!).
 
U

User6179

Guest
It’s funnily the opposite, because my phone is on charge (via the battery) my phone will have 100% power throughout the ride.

So it’s less likely to be flat (especially if you leave a power hungry app running by mistake when it’s in your pocket!).

+1 , did 8 hour run on the bike last week with Strava running on my Android phone with £5 power bank external battery from Amazon plugged into phone and when I got home my phone was still fully charged :thumbsup:
 

jayonabike

Powered by caffeine & whisky
Location
Hertfordshire
Sounds like your fixing a problem which ain't there. I've had this conversation with a mate that does the same & uses his phone. "Much easier" he says " with an external battery pack" he has wires on his bars plugged into his phone to his battery pack which he needs an extra bike bag strapped to the frame to store it in. Lots of faffing when it's not needed. Garmin for plotting routes and logging data, phone for calls. No extra wires, no external battery packs, no hassle, no bother.
 

RhythMick

Über Member
Location
Barnsley
I’ve seen a lot of posts with people asking about using a smartphone as an alternative to a dedicated standalone cycle computer. So I thought I put my personal experience into a post. I’ve used several models of iPhones over the years so this post is written from this angle. I currently use an iPhone 5.

The USP of a standalone cycle computer devices is it has been designed and packaged to be mounted on a bicycle. The hardware is streamlined resulting in advantages such as superior battery life. Mounting your phone is never going to be as convenient but I think the phone has other advantages that I believe make up for these minor inconveniences.

I’ve seen people post about bad experiences with phones. I was an early adopter starting with the first GPS enabled iPhone (iPhone 3G) and the first cycle apps. This was a trying time. Rubbish multitasking (a phone call closing your app). Below par apps/software. No external devices support for things like heart rate monitors. Not the greatest of GPS reception. Originally there was no dedicated handlebar mounts, I had to make my own. It was second class solution and a standalone cycle computer was undoubtedly the better option. These days are over.

Battery

The number one concern with the phone approach is also one of the easiest to solve. My iPhone5 with everything blazing (GPS, Screen, Data 3G, Bluetooth, WiFi) will scrape 4 hours. If you’re out all day or dependent on it for navigation, then this is not good enough. This is easily solved by hooking the phone up to an external battery. I currently use the Topeak Power Pack which is a neat solution that velcro’s under the stem. I previously stuck a cheap (£20 off Amazon) battery in a frame bag. Both of these battery charge the phone 3+ times so with a fully changed phone to start (4 phone battery cycles in total) you’re talking 15+ hours.

Phone Mount

The assumption is you’ll want to see the phone screen while pedalling, so you’ll need to mount the phone on the handle bars. It’s a real advantage having a popular handset. The more popular the phone the more likely a company will produce a dedicated cycle mount for it. It’s something to consider when choosing your next phone. The iPhone is very well catered for. I currently use the Topeak Ride Case II for iPhone 5 which I’ll give 8/10. Topeak have some new interesting cases coming out, including one that has the battery built in (I know this had been done before but Topeaks stem cap mount is excellent).

External Devices

Traditionally external devices, such as heart rate monitors, cadence sensors used Ant+ to communicate. So for your phone to work you would need some sort of plugin Ant+ dongle. Ant+ is still alive but more and more devices are moving to Bluetooth 4.0 (the low power version of Bluetooth). Bluetooth has advantages over Ant+, the biggest being it’s used in just about everything else where Ant+ is more just in the fitness world. It now means you can get heart rate monitors, cadence sensors, power meters etc. that will communicate with your phone via Bluetooth. I use the Wahoo heart rate monitor, which is excellent and the Topeak cadence sensors. The first iPhone to support Bluetooth 4.0 was the iPhone 4S any iPhone since supports it (4S, 5, 5S, 5C…).




Apps /Software

One of the killer advantages of the phone approach is it’s just a platform and you’re not tied to a piece of software/app. This has allowing developers to go out and do some clever stuff. Most phones will support multitasking so you can run many apps at the same time for different purposes.

Cycle apps fall into 3 broad functions with some Apps doing some or all of these functions.

Cycle Computer – How fast, how far, how long, what’s your heart rate etc. Typically these use the Phones GPS to calculate this. There are too many to mention.

Social/Tracking – This is tracking where you have been and getting that ride data onto a website. It could be for a competitive reason, Strava segment hunting. It could be to analysing your metric for improvement. It can just be a diary of your rides and a way to share them. I use Strava, for a bit of all the above. It was nice reviewing my Northern Ireland adventure before the pros tackled the same roads at the Giro. With the a phone being online it makes this a one button process to wirelessly upload

Navigation – This is a more complex subject. You can have “turn by turn” navigation, like the sort you use in a car. The example being you put in an address and the app routes your there. I rarely use this type but when I do, I use the TomTom SatNav app, which has a cycling mode (no motorway cycling for me). TomTom is pretty pricey but I original bought it to use in the car. The app is great and I’ve got my money worth over the years as a car satnav. Being on my phone it’s always in my pocket.

I prefer the other approach, which is to the follow a line/route on a rolling map. I typically pre-plot my route online (I use GPSies with a bit of Google Street View to make sure I’m not on a dual carriageway or a farm track) taking in the back lanes and the road less travelled. I upload these planned routes to my phone as a file (I just email it to my phone, no plugging a wire in). The route appears as line on the map. I then navigate by following this line on a rolling map with me position always in the centre of the map. I can also re-cycle any routes I’ve done in the past by saving it as a track/route. I use MotionX mainly because it was the first app to get it right and it does everything I need it to do. Most organised rides also provide these files in advance and having the route has saved me couple of time from taking the wrong turn (onto a different but very similarly signposted ride!!).

With any navigation apps the thing that costs the money to produce is the maps. Google provide “free” maps but in reality it’s a tool they uses to make (lots of) money in other ways. Therefore Google don’t let just any app developer store their maps locally on the phone, what’s in it for them! This means a lot of navigation apps (often the free ones) bring the map tiles down “over the air”, as and when you need the next map tile. This is because Google allow them to do this. It has an advantage as the app will take up very little of your phones storage (maps are massive) but it has some big disadvantages. It can cane your phone data, it can be really slow to bring the maps tiles down and at worst you can be somewhere without phone reception (so no map). Some apps come with the maps installed, like TomTom hence the big cost. Some apps allow you download the maps in advance. MotionX allows you to download “Open Cycle Maps” in advance. “Open Cycle Maps” are open source built by their users so that’s why they are free to use.

One thing I get askes a lot is does GPS uses phone data and therefore will it cost money. The answer is no. You can use GPS abroad and not come back to a £1k phone bill! But the apps you are running may be using data (the example downloading the map titles over the phone network) so it may be something you need to check for each app.

Online Cycling

Software developers are latching onto the fact your Phone, so therefore your ride, is online. MotionX for example allows you to broadcast your position (pin on the map) so other rides know where you are. Great if your mates know you’re 1 mile down the road so they will wait an extra few minutes in the café. Strava now does live segment updates. It will be interesting to see where this all leads.

It’s telling that the new features on the Garmin range (e.g. 810) are playing catch-up to the features you natural get from using a phone (posting location, uploading rides over the air, weather! etc). It’s more telling they do this by tethering it to your phone!

I’m obviously writing this as an iPhone fanboy by my personal prediction is the bike satnav will become a niche product in the same way very few people still use iPods, because of the all-conquering smartphone.

I hope this helped.
My software of choice for navigation is ViewRanger. It's free, you can choose between free online maps (eg Open Cycle Maps) and Premium OS maps, both of which can be stored on your phone meaning you don't need either DATA or WIFI, thus dramatically reducing battery drain (also turn off Bluetooth).

The reason I like ViewRanger is a) it's very easy to create routes either on the device or on their web-site for download to the device (or imported from a GPX file) and b) you can "follow" a route, meaning as well as a rolling map it points you to the next waypoint and can trigger a sound when you reach it, or when you go off-track (XTE). 2 years ago a group of us did the coast-to-coast TPT SouthPort to Hornsea for charity and this tool was invaluable for the inevitable losses of signage.

It can also send your "Beacon" to their website so authorised followers can see where you are. I chose not to do that, and it had nothing to do with the optional pub stops ...
 
OP
OP
BRounsley

BRounsley

Über Member
Sounds like your fixing a problem which ain't there. I've had this conversation with a mate that does the same & uses his phone. "Much easier" he says " with an external battery pack" he has wires on his bars plugged into his phone to his battery pack which he needs an extra bike bag strapped to the frame to store it in. Lots of faffing when it's not needed. Garmin for plotting routes and logging data, phone for calls. No extra wires, no external battery packs, no hassle, no bother.

Probably depends what you’re doing. Upload to Strava post ride, press button on app, compared to connect a Garmin up to a PC. Download a new route, email gpx to myself and press on it in the phone email app, compared to connect a Garmin up to a PC.

I do have to velco the battery to the stem once a week post charge, but putting the phone on the bike takes as long as zipping the phone into my pocket. Maybe this is because of my oddly small hands!!!
 
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