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So I tuned my bike but now have chain rattle over bumps

Discussion in 'Bicycle Mechanics and Repairs' started by Keeno, 11 Jun 2008.

  1. Keeno

    Keeno New Member

    Location:
    Derry, N.Ireland
    Lo all

    I sat in the garage last night for a good two hours and got my gears front and back all changing nicely, however when I sent out this morning I noticed that I was getting a lot of rattles going over bumps in the road.

    Any idea what I have done? Bike is a Giant SCR3.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Did you tamper with the 'b'?
     
  3. Keeno

    Keeno New Member

    Location:
    Derry, N.Ireland
    What is the b?

    New to all this and was using utube as a guide :smile:
     
  4. Dunno if it's even relevent. I was being a smartarse. It's the single screw which sticks out the back of the mech and adjusts it's rotational position relative to the drop-out and therefore the distance of the top jockey from the cassette sprockets. It actually sounds like your chain is too long.
     
  5. Keeno

    Keeno New Member

    Location:
    Derry, N.Ireland
    I was actually thinking something similar, I cant remember adjusting that screw but its almost as if there is no longer the same spring tension on the chain.

    Hmm must go and actually learn what all the parts are called so I can esplain myself a bit better.
     
  6. Two sub-assemblies, the derailleur body which bolts onto the frame and which includes the slant parallelogram and all the adjustment screws and which controls side to side chain movement from instructions communicated via the shifters. And the cage plate assembly which is spring loaded to control chain tension and which retains the jockey wheels.

    You've got two 'limit adjust' screws which set the extent of the mech's side to side travel, preventing the chain from falling off the cassette.

    A cable tension screw where the cable enters the mech which allows you to co-ordinate the clicks in the lever with the sprockets.

    The 'B' adjust screw in the back of the mech which affects the rotational position of the body relative to the drop-out and therefore the top jockey wheel's clearance to the sprockets.

    A cable pinch bolt. The bolt which er pinches the cable.
     
  7. Keeno

    Keeno New Member

    Location:
    Derry, N.Ireland
    Is there a smiley that will show what you just said going clean over my head? :smile:

    That wasnt meant to rhyme by the way :smile:
     
  8. Noodley

    Noodley Guest

    And mine! :smile:

    C'mon mickle, give a "point it out" explanation...

    ..I know what you mean, but it's a bit "techy"..good explanation otherwise.
     
  9. ColinJ

    ColinJ Slow Hill Climber/Station lift avoider!

    You haven't pumped your tyres up too hard have you :smile:?
     
  10. Ok. The screwy thing on the back doesn't do anything important so ignore it.

    The two screw thingies close together are called screws because if you fukc about with them you'll screw things up.

    The adjustery thingy at the back where the cable goes in adjusts the gears. A bit. Probably. Woah! Not that much. Woops now you've turned it back too much. shoot. Start again at the beginning.

    The furtle-pin-gangler which is next to the gangle jibber resets the whoop-clanger when used in conjunction with the sprigget malarky but only if you've pre-established the tension of the fettle grunion spool diswongler.




    Just read it s l o w l y.


    A couple of hundred times, you'll get it eventually.
     
  11. Keeno

    Keeno New Member

    Location:
    Derry, N.Ireland
    Meh

    You guys will not beleive this :sad:

    Sat in the garage tonight again and bumped the bike around a bit to see if I could pin point the noise. Turns out the bottle holder had came a bit loose and it was a bolt rattling :biggrin: