Southern Morocco in early December - any tips?

[robjh]

I'm thinking of spending a week to 10 days touring in southern Morocco, starting and ending at Agadir, in the next couple of weeks, ie. late November-early December.

I'm assuming an average of only 80-100km/day, due to short days, hilly terrain, heavily-laden bike and some sight-seeing. I'll have a road bike but with fat-ish tyres, and imagine doing mainly on-road riding but am happy with a bit of off-road piste too.

I'm thinking of a route based on Agadir-Tafraoute-Sidi Ifni, with side trips as the fancy takes me. The other option would be Agadir-Taroudant-Tata-Sidi Ifni but that's a lot longer, and I'd rather plan too little than too much.

So my questions :
- anyone have any experience of these routes, especially at this time of year?
- how much accommodation is there outside the large towns? (especially this time of year)
- what do you do for water? How easy to get it? ( especially this time of year)
- how easy to find places serving hot food? ( especially this time of year)

I'm thinking of taking camping equipment but that will depend on accommodation options. I know it'll be cold at night so I'll plan for that.

Any hints on these or any other matters gratefully received
Rob

 

[robjh]

Not even 'thinking of' any more - just booked a flight from Gatwick to Agadir on Monday 26th.
I've backpacked in Morocco before and it looked like a great place for a bike tour - can't wait!

I'd still appreciate any practical hints that people have for rural Morocco at this time of year.

 

[Yellow7]

Hi Rob.
On my last tour I passed through there in Nov / Dec 2010, also going through Agadir, from Marrakesh, via the ‘Tizi n Tichka’ pass, I’d well recommend that route, you can get back to Agadir easily via coach in about 3 hours. Be prepared to be told some sob story (as I found out) on that pass (and no doubt any others) by the pass shop owner wanting money to call his loved one in France or Germany (or wherever it was!), giving you the guilt trip story “bla blab la”, If he does just walk away, they’re so experienced on their fine ‘art’ of that & before you know it you’re handing money over, but as you've already been there you've no doubt experienced it already!

Back to your questions:
There’s nothing of too much concern to worry about, I hope you like sugar as you’ll get offered Moroccan whisky (sweet tea) which is a small brew of tea with half the pot occupied by a lump of sugar the size of a LARGE piece of coal, hence the reason for the state of the locals teeth!!

Accommodation outside towns is reasonable, I can’t remember exact amounts but ALWAYS barter in Morocco, it’s their tradition, it can be difficult as a westerner to know how to handle but after a few attempts you can save money. As in most African countries you’re seen as a cash-point on legs, so be cautious of this & barter. I free-camped much of the time but never paid that much when I took a room.
Water. I carried 3 one litre SiS water bottles, being Nov/Dec it’s fairly cool & proved ad equate enough, towns are never really that far apart, where bottled water is readily available. If you do get caught out you can always flag vehicles down, they always help, I only needed this further down in Western Sahara though.
Food. As with water, there’s always some little joint in a town selling something or other. If not then stores sell the bread (Kohbz) which is like a large doughnut / pancake thing. With a jar of Nutella you’re laughing!

I look forward to some pics!
Mark

 

[robjh]

Hi Rob.
On my last tour I passed through there in Nov / Dec 2010, also going through Agadir, from Marrakesh, via the ‘Tizi n Tichka’ pass,

Thanks Mark - and great blog by the way.

I was planning on staying to the south of the Atlas to avoid the coldest weather, but the Anti-Atlas sound very scenic too. Just wondering if I should go for the longer or shorter circuit, but I've got a few days to chew over that. As you say, looks like you can usually load a bike onto a bus in Morocco, I'm not too proud to do that if I'm running out of time.

Do you remember what sort of night-time temperatures you were getting when you passed through?

 

[Yellow7]

Hey thanks Rob.
The Anti-Atlast night temperatures were not so cold, I'd usually sleep wearing a cotton t-shirt, my sleeping bag was only a cheap £30 job but packed away real small so if you have a higher rating bag you should be fine. I also had a fleece top & sometimes would wear that at night, best google annual temperatures for actual figures though. I'd love to ride that area again some time, you'll love it!! Remember some pics, or a link to any you may put on line!

 

[robjh]

Remember some pics, or a link to any you may put on line!

Yeah, I'll upload some pics somewhere when I'm back, and may even do a Crazyguyonabike journal if I'm feeling really dedicated.

 

[Crankarm]

Ben Rowlands tour of the High Atlas over 15 days is a pretty good read with some great pictures. I plan to do similar in the New Year.

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=RrzKj&doc_id=8408&v=AO

 

[robjh]

Yes I read Ben Rowlands' report when I was first thinking of this trip. I'm sticking further south, and mainly on-road, but it's started off well despite a dreary drag up a dual-carriageway from the airport, riding straight into the wind (and my legs had forgotten how heavy the bike is when fully laden). I've got to Taroudannt which is a great place for a day, and I've been enjoying all the street food and cafés before I head off into the wilds. Bought myself a new, updated road map as the route I took yesterday wasn't on my old map and I got most confused as towns appeared which I thought should be elsewhere.

 

[robjh]

Some pictures of my Morocco trip on flickr : http://www.flickr.com/photos/19800607@N04/sets/72157632210539689/

 

[rich p]

Great pics rob. Morocco's quite brown isn't it?

 

[lulubel]

Great pics rob. Morocco's quite brown isn't it?

It doesn't get much rain.

Beautiful pictures. One more place added to the list of places I want to go.

 

[psmiffy]

yup - like the pictures - and yes another place to the stupidly long list

Great pics rob. Morocco's quite brown isn't it?

Very deep Mr P very very deep

 

[robjh]

Morocco's quite brown isn't it?

Yes, it does look like I sought out the brownest parts, and at the brownest time of year. Even my food pictures and the guy's cloak are brown. More seriously, it's getting rather deserty that far south, and just over the hills lies the Sahara. Had I had more time i would have been heading for the sand-dunes.

 

[Yellow7]

Avenue Mohammed V That's one name I remember from Morocco, every other road seemed to be called that from their great king. Excellent pics!

 

[jay clock]

Excellent.... on my list for one day!