Split Gatorskin...

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r269/gbb_photo/DSC01800-1.jpg

What do you think ?
This Gatorskins about 8 months to 1 year old. It split (not of its own accord, i ran over some debris)...about 3 weeks after i got it :blush::ohmy:
Couldnt believe it...just paid circa £17...then that happens.

Being a tightwad, i thought i'd monitor it, watch to see if the gash got any bigger.....no, not in the 8 months ive been running it. Done maybe 1500 miles with the split.

Its 8 mm long, does cause a tiny raising of the tyres surface if you look along the tyre, and it goes 'squish, squish, squish' as i ride along. Not loud....you can just hear it.
I assume the kevlar section hasnt been compromised so its just the surface rubber.

Anyone had anything similar....i know i'm taking a calculated risk, it could go 25 miles from home. :smile:

I'm posting this partially cos ive seen other posts re split tyres....just to let you know they can survive some pretty heavy damage.
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
No help but...
I had my rear PR2 do this after 2 weeks (debris I guess) early spring and I ran it all summer including my 40 mph descent of Ventoux....I guessed also the Kevlar had not been compromised, but I am gonna change it.
THEN
Just bought some Krylions for the winter and bugger-me, after 2 rides a big cut in the front tyre :blush::smile:! which I may swap to the rear and keep riding. It's getting expensive at £17 a throw.
Only alternative I can think is a harder tyre that might not roll so well.
I'm starting to get miffed.
Looks like Gatorskins are just as prone for cuts.
 

Mortiroloboy

New Member
Could try dropping a bit of super glue in the the cut, usually works for me.

But when you come to replace the tyre just make sure that the brand name/log lines up with the valve (on both tyres) it looks so much better in photographs, and always make certain that both wheels are correctly orientated before setting off, i.e logo's/valves at the bottom, or top (depending on your preference) of the wheel, Oh, and make sure your bottle cages match...LOL!!
 

Elmer Fudd

Miserable Old Bar Steward
User259iroloboy said:
Could try dropping a bit of super glue in the the cut, usually works for me.

But when you come to replace the tyre just make sure that the brand name/log lines up with the valve (on both tyres) it looks so much better in photographs, and always make certain that both wheels are correctly orientated before setting off, i.e logo's/valves at the bottom, or top (depending on your preference) of the wheel, Oh, and make sure your bottle cages match...LOL!!
You bloody wuftah !! :smile: :blush:
 

Smokin Joe

Legendary Member
User259iroloboy said:
Could try dropping a bit of super glue in the the cut, usually works for me.

But when you come to replace the tyre just make sure that the brand name/log lines up with the valve (on both tyres) it looks so much better in photographs, and always make certain that both wheels are correctly orientated before setting off, i.e logo's/valves at the bottom, or top (depending on your preference) of the wheel, Oh, and make sure your bottle cages match...LOL!!
Utter rubish.

The logo should be opposite the valve or the wheel will be out of balance, and when you set off the valves should be pointing in opposite directions for even weight distribution as any fool knows.

And I'd bin that tyre too, you tight git.
 
Smokin Joe said:
Utter rubish.

The logo should be opposite the valve or the wheel will be out of balance, and when you set off the valves should be pointing in opposite directions for even weight distribution as any fool knows.

And I'd bin that tyre too, you tight git.


WRONG!!!! The tyre label MUST align with the valve! FACT!
You're right about the valves pointing in opposite directions mindyou.
 

bonj2

Guest
gbb said:
Can you edit the pic in paintbrush and draw an arrow pointing to the split because personally I can't see it...

Smokin Joe said:
Utter rubish.

The logo should be opposite the valve or the wheel will be out of balance, and when you set off the valves should be pointing in opposite directions for even weight distribution as any fool knows.

And I'd bin that tyre too, you tight git.
And if you ever do a wheelie, you must stop afterwards to realign them. (Obviously only when safely out of sight of anyone who may have seen the wheelie.)
 
OP
gbb

gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
:blush::biggrin:
Thanks for the comical replies...

Bin it Smokin...not on your nelly...thousands of miles left in it yet :smile:
 

TheDoctor

Resistance is futile!
Moderator
Location
Stevenage
bonj said:
Can you edit the pic in paintbrush and draw an arrow pointing to the split because personally I can't see it...
Above the valve and a little to the left. It's in the tread, not the brown meshed bit. Not a huge split.
 

buddha

Veteran
My krylions developed a similar cut after only a few rides.
I tried sticking it up with superglue, which didn't work for me.
Ended up using some 'rubber vulcanising cement' from a local car spares shop. And it has stayed closed with no noticable bulge.
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
buddha said:
My krylions developed a similar cut after only a few rides.
I tried sticking it up with superglue, which didn't work for me.
Ended up using some 'rubber vulcanising cement' from a local car spares shop. And it has stayed closed with no noticable bulge.
Thanks Buddha, will try this. Alas, the superglue trick has not worked for me either.
 

longers

Veteran
Another one for superglue not working. I got a big gash from a 7mm piece of glass in my gatorskins (after 600 miles with not having to remove it from the bike). I think superglue is not suitable as it dries solid and is not flexible.
 
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