[QUOTE 2536193, member: 9609"]I would not have thought the strength of the truss would have been weakened, basically I have just altered the angle of the strut by a few degrees, and the bolted / metal plate will be stronger than the original plate. The other end of the strut has been properly mated into the king post / ridge beam connection. I did cut the ridge beam to make the loft hatch bigger - but I thing that is allowed? and I did form a proper nogging (?) between the two adjacent ridge beams to support the one I cut.
Good point about an over eager surveyor selling the house; if I ever come to sell it may be prudent to put it back the way it was.
So anyway, with that bit more info, any sort of ball park figure for what would be a safe max load and breaking point. I'm guessing, getting dodgy at half a ton, but would probably go up to a couple (would need something better than my old climbing rope).
I'm just curious, I doubt it will ever have more than 10 stone on it.[/quote]
Once the truss has been cut, unless an engineer does all the calculations, then it's just timber. Yes the bolted plate is probably mighty fine for the job.
So onto the weight you really want to know. No roof truss that I know would realistically take half a ton at a node point. I would consider it to be capable of taking 30 stone easy but I wouldn't push it much more.
As an aside, before I left the industry we were having to put spaces in bungalow roofs so that a family of four could use it as an escape in case of flooding.