Struggling with cartridge brake pads

Geoff Crowther

"... travel far, not fast", Ted Simon
Ok, first time I've done this job, never having dealt with cartridges before.
Just started to change the pads on my Thorn Sherpa. They're Shimano XT V brakes. First pin came out easy and pad slid out with no difficulty. Second one, having got pin out pad wouldn't slide out. Had to remove it from bike (defeating the supposed benefit of not having to re-align shoe) and eventually got pad out with pliers. Now, new pad wont go in properly so pin won't go right through to hole in other side. Seems too tight and pad won't quite slide all the way home. Other one in fine, new pin fitted with no problem.
Any advice please?
Cheers
Geoff
 

neil_merseyside

Über Member
Location
Wirral
Ok, first time I've done this job, never having dealt with cartridges before.
Just started to change the pads on my Thorn Sherpa. They're Shimano XT V brakes. First pin came out easy and pad slid out with no difficulty. Second one, having got pin out pad wouldn't slide out. Had to remove it from bike (defeating the supposed benefit of not having to re-align shoe) and eventually got pad out with pliers. Now, new pad wont go in properly so pin won't go right through to hole in other side. Seems too tight and pad won't quite slide all the way home. Other one in fine, new pin fitted with no problem.
Any advice please?
Cheers
Geoff
Use the friction of pad on the rim to remove and replace the pad - pull pin then apply brake lightly and rotate wheel backwards to disengage pads, then start pad in slot and rotate forward to slot the pad fully home, any fine adjustment to get pin back in is simply a matter of rocking back and forwards with brake on.
Check new pad and old pad backing are same size as some moulding sprue can make fit a bit tight, if so you could give it a rub with a file or slice off with a blade.
 
OP
Geoff Crowther

Geoff Crowther

"... travel far, not fast", Ted Simon
Thanks Neil. You were right about the moulding sprue. Fixed.
However, same problem with fronts. One came out, other stuck. I'm determined to do this with my road tool kit cos off on long tour soon. Unfortunately, on the fronts, the pin's behind the forks so you can't remove them without removing shoe from bike first so your tip re using friction doesn't work on those (will on rears though). Any other tips for removing/replacing pads gratefully received.
 

neil_merseyside

Über Member
Location
Wirral
Thanks Neil. You were right about the moulding sprue. Fixed.
However, same problem with fronts. One came out, other stuck. I'm determined to do this with my road tool kit cos off on long tour soon. Unfortunately, on the fronts, the pin's behind the forks so you can't remove them without removing shoe from bike first so your tip re using friction doesn't work on those (will on rears though). Any other tips for removing/replacing pads gratefully received.
Pop front wheel out and pull pins from 'inside'? Then replace wheel and waggle to loosen as before, replace and re-insert pad as before, re-remove wheel and replace pins. Bit of a faff but no need to set pads up with correct toeing.
 
OP
Geoff Crowther

Geoff Crowther

"... travel far, not fast", Ted Simon
Pop front wheel out and pull pins from 'inside'? Then replace wheel and waggle to loosen as before, replace and re-insert pad as before, re-remove wheel and replace pins. Bit of a faff but no need to set pads up with correct toeing.
Understood Neil. I'll try your advice next time. Felt like key thing in refitting was ensuring no moulding sprue.
Many thanks.
 

MontyVeda

a short-tempered ill-controlled small-minded troll
Refreshing to hear it's not just me then :rolleyes:
brakes are the most annoying fiddly things to fettle in my book... I recently moved onto cartridge blocks and I'm still learning.

I have recently discovered that the initial setting and toeing-in is a lot easier without the tyre on the rim.
 
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