Sturmey 4-speed FW hubs

[SkipdiverJohn]

I've just been given a mystery ladies light roadster to cannibalise for parts. No idea who made it other than I'm fairly sure it isn't either Raleigh or Puch. Lugged construction with a flat plate between the chainstays for bolting on a propstand. I've cleaned all the oily filth off the rear hub and sprocket - only to discover the expected bog standard Sturmey 3-speed AW hub was in fact a not so standard 4-speed FW unit with a 1951 date code! The toggle chain is seized up though and might need to be replaced. What I want to know is whether the little pull rod for the gear selector is compatible with the AW hub, and whether a FW can be run as a 3-speed using a normal 3-speed shifter?

 

[biggs682]

Absolutely no idea
But sounds a nice surprise

 

[Spokesmann]

Its a great hub, a 4 speed wide ratio, use all 4! Get the right shifter for it. I think the toggle chain should be OK, best way is to try it all.

 

[FrankCrank]

I've just been given a mystery ladies light roadster to cannibalise for parts. No idea who made it other than I'm fairly sure it isn't either Raleigh or Puch. Lugged construction with a flat plate between the chainstays for bolting on a propstand. I've cleaned all the oily filth off the rear hub and sprocket - only to discover the expected bog standard Sturmey 3-speed AW hub was in fact a not so standard 4-speed FW unit with a 1951 date code! The toggle chain is seized up though and might need to be replaced. What I want to know is whether the little pull rod for the gear selector is compatible with the AW hub, and whether a FW can be run as a 3-speed using a normal 3-speed shifter?

I only have experience on more modern 3 speed SA hubs, but I know the indicator comes in different lengths, so something to watch for. As to working as a 3-speed, might be a case of trying it. No doubt there'll be false neutrals to contend with, but reckon a good chance it would work OK.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I'll have a look at the rest of the bike later at work and closely check the shifter just in case it's actually a 4-speed one. It never even occurred to me that it would be anything other than a 3-speed, and the hub was too oily to read the markings. All the Sturmeys I've ever encountered up until now have been AW's, which is no bad thing in one sense because they Always Work no matter how ratty the wheel is, and the model code for them is an apt one!
The next question is, what is availability of 40H rims like these days? I think I probably know the answer already .....But if I can get the FW working reliably in all four gears I'm thinking it would make a nice period conversion to convert one of my 531 road frames from derailleur to hub gears.

 

[raleighnut]

SJS do one in 700c,

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...ver-40-hole/&usg=AOvVaw1CkeSU62CtuI0PZIuVEC8S

 

[ren531]

The Raleigh Lenton i have is an FW 4speed and the toggle chain is completely different, with a much longer indicator rodd that splits into 2halfs and protruding out of the non drive side axle, the four speed trigger does work with a 3speed hub so it would work the other way around i supose, but it would be good to have all four gears .

 

[12boy]

Sheldon Brown has some info on these hubs including an exploded drawing, gear ratios etc. You may find this of use.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

The Raleigh Lenton i have is an FW 4speed and the toggle chain is completely different, with a much longer indicator rodd that splits into 2halfs and protruding out of the non drive side axle, the four speed trigger does work with a 3speed hub so it would work the other way around i supose, but it would be good to have all four gears .

That's useful to know, I did notice something with what looks like a screwdriver slot in it sticking out of the L/H side of the axle, but I had assumed it was some sort of adjuster. I haven't removed the existing toggle chin from the hub yet. Presumably these parts are now obsolete, so would be a problem to replace if damaged or would require some sort of bodging? I like the idea of a 4-speed FW hub, but I'm wary of going to the trouble of building up a wheel with one if parts availability is a problem. The bike the 4 speed wheel came out of has only got a standard 3-speed trigger shifter, checked it today. It's a low-end clone of something like a Raleigh Caprice, but I can find no clue as to who made it. Most probably 70's or 80's vintage with a much older replacement rear wheel.

Sheldon Brown has some info on these hubs including an exploded drawing, gear ratios etc. You may find this of use.

I've already been looking at Sheldon Brown, I find it a goldmine of useful information about vintage steel bikes in general.

 

[ren531]

The slotted end on the none drive side is not really an adjuster its how you separate the indicator rod and you have to be very carful when screwing/unscrewing it the 2 halves are joined by a very fine threaded section and its easy to strip or break it if over tightened .Spare parts are available on Ebay including indicator rods and also 4 speed triggers but they are not cheap .The 4 speed is not much wider gear range than the 3 speed and can be fiddly to get into bottom gear ,it has a very strong spring going into the bottom gear ,but give it a go its all good fun .

 

[mjr]

https://colwoodwheelworks.co.uk/sturmey-archer-4-speed-toggle-chain/ had new toggle chains made but ouch £35, compared to £4 for a 3-speed.

 

[rogerzilla]

FWs are rather different in their indicators. Be careful with it as replacements are hard to come by - the thread joining the two halves is very fine and can be stripped if overtightened.

The cable takes a very hard pull to select super low gear, so the trigger needs to be in decent condition. Also, the three springs inside are a matched set and the hub may not select low gear (2) if you mix them up with springs from a later or earlier hub. The spring rates were changed at least once during the production run.

 

[classic33]

Toggle chain on one or both sides?

 

[mjr]

One side. Indicators on both sides, so you can check alignment.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

Toggle chain on one or both sides?

Definitely only one chain coming out of the normal place on the RH side. That's why I assumed it was an AW until I got it cleaned up and could read the casing. I was only looking for the date code so see how old it was, I was well surprised to find it was a different type of hub altogether!