Team BKool CycleChat
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LBHIFI
Veteran
My BePro ride was accepted in the weight handicap league:
http://www.bkool.com/classification/showIndividualStageClassification/5990
theboxers
TheBoxers on Cycle Sim sw
??? I'm not sure if there is a different system for leagues. Just reporting what the pop up said for my session. It could be because I did not finish the session
.
Soarerv8
Über Member
In my defence your honour every time I tried to go in front and carry the load he kept going to fast and forcing me behind. I suspect without a target to follow, even ignoring the drafting I would have been a couple of minutes slower.From what I could see when I popped in for a spectate, you spent more time in the draft, which would explain the lower wattage. Nipping out at the end and beating him to the line was the usual way for any cyclist to repay all that towing...
AAAC 76C
Large Member
Can get back to cycling now, I have fixed the car.
Awful rattle that was similar to if not the same to a problem I had before and my local BMW independent garage fixed it by replacing the water pump plus they changed the alternator belt as well as it showed signs of age (don't we all).
That therefore was my first port of call.
The water pump is driven by a spring loaded idler pulley direct off of the crankshaft pulley and when I disengaged the spring on this idler pulley into the service position the noise went away so it was either the idler pulley (also known as a friction wheel) or the water pump.
The former was almost half the price of the latter so thats where I went first and it cost just short of £90.
To change it you have to drop the engine at one end to get access to one of the attachment bolts via the wheel arch so you have to strip the liner out of the wheel arch as well.
That all done I put everything back together which in total took me 3 hours.
Well the noise was still there so it was back to the BMW garage for a £150 water pump.
This again requires dropping the engine and 3 hours later it was back together and time to run the engine to bleed the refilled coolant system but blow me the noise was still there.
Our daughter came home for a visit from Friday night to Saturday night so my car time was taken up with socialising and shopping etc.
Got back under the car this afternoon (Sunday) to take bits off and inspect them.
According to the book the alternator belt tensioner should be quite easy to push up and lock into service position to get the belt off but mine required a bit of leverage and once it was moving it was then pretty easy to lock it with the service catch.
I had bought a new belt on Saturday just in case I found mine damaged but the old one looked OK apart from one small crack.
As I had a new one (£18) I fitted it anyway on a stitch in time basis.
I also removed the crankshaft pulley to inspect it and the engine casing behind it but found no faults.
Anyway put it all together and started the car and blow me the blimming rattle was gone.
My theory is that the alternator tensioner pulley arm had locked into a certain position and when the water pump drive pulley was engaged it just slightly changed the tension on the alternator belt, which is rests on where it wraps around the crankshaft pulley, and caused the pulley on the alternator tensioner to rattle.
I also have a sneaky feeling that this was the problem two years ago so have now paid over £300 pounds on parts for this fault over the past two years when all along it was the alternator belt tensioner which I will now replace at my leisure.
Anyway as a result I may not be richer but I am wiser.
I will probably have to Ebay my old bits too recoup some funds as the car fixing has blown my new BKool Pro budget.
Still need two new front tyres as well and have a four wheel track and alignment check done as my wife hit a big pot hole just before a roundabout on a dual carriageway on the A303 (at Podimore just outside of Ilchester near Yeovil) on her way to the Bath and West.
Need to put my stock spings back on as the lowered Bilstein Springs I fitted a while back are a bit harsh for everyday driving on UK roads, especially with all of the speed humps in town.
Awful rattle that was similar to if not the same to a problem I had before and my local BMW independent garage fixed it by replacing the water pump plus they changed the alternator belt as well as it showed signs of age (don't we all).
That therefore was my first port of call.
The water pump is driven by a spring loaded idler pulley direct off of the crankshaft pulley and when I disengaged the spring on this idler pulley into the service position the noise went away so it was either the idler pulley (also known as a friction wheel) or the water pump.
The former was almost half the price of the latter so thats where I went first and it cost just short of £90.
To change it you have to drop the engine at one end to get access to one of the attachment bolts via the wheel arch so you have to strip the liner out of the wheel arch as well.
That all done I put everything back together which in total took me 3 hours.
Well the noise was still there so it was back to the BMW garage for a £150 water pump.
This again requires dropping the engine and 3 hours later it was back together and time to run the engine to bleed the refilled coolant system but blow me the noise was still there.
Our daughter came home for a visit from Friday night to Saturday night so my car time was taken up with socialising and shopping etc.
Got back under the car this afternoon (Sunday) to take bits off and inspect them.
According to the book the alternator belt tensioner should be quite easy to push up and lock into service position to get the belt off but mine required a bit of leverage and once it was moving it was then pretty easy to lock it with the service catch.
I had bought a new belt on Saturday just in case I found mine damaged but the old one looked OK apart from one small crack.
As I had a new one (£18) I fitted it anyway on a stitch in time basis.
I also removed the crankshaft pulley to inspect it and the engine casing behind it but found no faults.
Anyway put it all together and started the car and blow me the blimming rattle was gone.
My theory is that the alternator tensioner pulley arm had locked into a certain position and when the water pump drive pulley was engaged it just slightly changed the tension on the alternator belt, which is rests on where it wraps around the crankshaft pulley, and caused the pulley on the alternator tensioner to rattle.
I also have a sneaky feeling that this was the problem two years ago so have now paid over £300 pounds on parts for this fault over the past two years when all along it was the alternator belt tensioner which I will now replace at my leisure.
Anyway as a result I may not be richer but I am wiser.
I will probably have to Ebay my old bits too recoup some funds as the car fixing has blown my new BKool Pro budget.
Still need two new front tyres as well and have a four wheel track and alignment check done as my wife hit a big pot hole just before a roundabout on a dual carriageway on the A303 (at Podimore just outside of Ilchester near Yeovil) on her way to the Bath and West.
Need to put my stock spings back on as the lowered Bilstein Springs I fitted a while back are a bit harsh for everyday driving on UK roads, especially with all of the speed humps in town.
bridgy
Legendary Member
Hi mangowifi - do you mean the time when the races take place?
If so, the chaingang live race takes place at 7pm (with 10 min warm-up) on a Thursday, and there's usually a re-run at 5pm on a Saturday.
You just need to look for the chaingang league stage in the "Live" tab on Bsim (don't start it from the league tab if joining the live race) at 7pm Thurs or 5pm Sat, and join in from there. If you've been accepted in the league group by an admin, your time will then show up in the league results.
Best to look on here before each live race as whoever's going to start the race will confirm details.
If you can't make the live session at those times, you can start the session yourself another time, either from your "League" tab on Bsim or by challenging someone else who's already done the stage and adding some ghosts - once you've set this up, it will also be found in the "League" tab - but the live Thursday or Saturday sessions are more fun if you can make it!
Most questions you may have will be covered in this very useful post by Geoff - https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/bkool-faq.191965/
Edit: We also usually do a handicap race (either a time or weight handicap to try and level out finishing times) at 8pm on a Tuesday - you'll have to be a member of the handicap league to do this one
BILL S
Guru
Thanks for that AAAC!!! I was feeling stressed out enough already and then came into work only to be faced with reading this.
Just remember that there's Scottish people around who might take a turn for the worse upon reading that some people change out perfectly good car parts that still have hundreds if not thousands of miles left in them before they actually break apart.
Even worse, that there's people out there who spend a small fortune diagnosing a fault by simply replacing all possible parts.
Anyway at least I don't feel so bad about having to change out the coolant in my new old car because I don't know if there's any antifreeze in it. I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and shell out the £16 and hopefully be able to syphon enough of it out without actually having to get underneath the car. Fortunately the oil seems well enough topped up, if a little black so that should be good for another 4 years or 20,000 miles. My last old banger lasted 20,000 miles without a service and it finally died because one of the doors refused (and I mean refused!!!) to open and I broke everything within the door trying to open it. So I kind of wonder how far a car will go without any servicing, apart from perhaps the occasional oil top-up. I think 50,000 miles is possible if the car keeps getting it's mot which for me would probably be 10 years at my present mileage.
Well that's cheered me up a bit
. Time to have a think about tonight's turbo ride 
theboxers
TheBoxers on Cycle Sim sw
About a year ago whilst driving home the clutch felt a bit odd. Stop/start traffic in sarf LundonThanks for that AAAC!!! I was feeling stressed out enough already and then came into work only to be faced with reading this.
. I was about 30 minutes from home when nothing. Depress clutch pedal no release of drive and pedal stays down 
. A quick yank of the gear stick to get out of gear to not drive into the car in front and a coast to the side of the road.3 days (after a relay to a garage local to me) and £1500
later (Volvo V70 clutch+service and MOT) I was back on the road. It did occur to me to sell the car but I thought why should someone else get the benefit of my new clutch.That £1100 on the clutch has still to be restored to the bank balance, but it was cheaper than getting a new car.
bridgy
Legendary Member
If I have time to get on the turbo tonight I will give it a go yesHey lads, back on track please...
Anyone else going to try Andy's test? Bill, Bridgy? It will take you no time.
BILL S
Guru
I know! Jim and The Boxers appear to be on the wrong forum, whereas myself and AAAC did at least mention our turbosHey lads, back on track please...
QUOTE]
