Tell me about these brakes

[roubaixtuesday]

Not good to mess with brakes you're not confident about.

Alternative opinion: you should always know how to diagnose and adjust your brakes.

https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog/repair-help/cantilever-smooth-post-brake-service

 

[simongt]

Alternative opinion: you should always know how to diagnose and adjust your brakes.

Indeed, but as my Galaxy is the first bike I've owned in over twenty years that has cantis, it's having the practise.

 

[Dogtrousers]

As an aside this is my sister's bike. Her dog is very old and doddery. Being a very practical type she says "When the dog dies I'll get to ride my bike again". So it's not an urgent job unless the dog takes a turn for the worse. Quite why a living dog is a restraint on cycling I'm not entirely sure, but it is.

 

[wafter]

Chain is knackered as it's all jammed and bunched up. Obviously that's not clearly visible on a picture of the front wheel Tyres are shot and deteriorating. Brake blocks - well they're over 30 years old so they are going straight in the bin. Rear mech may be in trouble because, due to the jamming up event it's been fully extended for years which may have affected the springs. I'll find that out when I get to it. I have a spare Sora mech that I'll take just in case but it may not be suitable. Cables are no bother and I'll do them as a matter of course.

Cool - new chain and tyres it is then - I won't labour the point about the brake blocks but if they're not visibly perished I'm sure they're fine...

I'd expect the RD to be OK as springs are typically very forgiving unless over-extended past their elastic limit.

As for tyres; Schwalbe do some decent budget offerings - I was recommended Delta Cruisers when I asked a similar question and got some 700x32c items for the Fuji. No initial complaints although less than a year later there are (hopefully superficial...?) cracks in their sidewalls. I'm not sure if this is an age / quality / counterfeit issue; needless to say the tosser I bought them from on ebay has resolutely failed to respond to my messages on the subject

Cantis are an absolute pain in the rear end. The only good thing with cantis is that Vs fit on the same bosses, but you will have to change the levers too, as the pull is different between Vs and cantis.

Yes; I've just gone down tht pull ratio rabbithole myself - if anyone has any questions on this subject I can probably answer them!

From my limited experience of them, I agree.
Easier to get my LBS to do it and drop them a few quid for the peace of mind. Not good to mess with brakes you're not confident about.

I've read this a lot but never had the pleasure - what exactly is the issue with them?

They seem straightforward enough, but then so do the V' so n my Fuji and they're a pain... although they are paired with a set of levers that only pull about half the cable they're supposed to, which is probably the core issue.

 

[Big John]

We routinely do these sort of bikes at the bike charity I volunteer at. Surprising how well they often scrub up. We keep most things original except for cables and blocks if they look worn but those blocks look ok in the pic. Takes us a couple of hours usually and the bike is safe and rideable. I'd keep the tyres if the bike won't get used too much. If you start buying new this and that you won't e long before you've reached the cost of a new bike lol. YouTube will give you an idea of what to do with cantis. They can, as has been said, be a bugger but equally they might be a doddle. Enjoy the experience and I'm sure the rider will appreciate your efforts 👍

 

[Dogtrousers]

I'd keep the tyres if the bike won't get used too much.

The tyres are knackered. They are no good. They are dead. They are ex-tyres.

I didn't bother taking a photo of the cracks in them as I didn't feel it necessary. Trust me. They are done for.

 

[T4tomo]

I've done quite a bit of messing around with Cantis, refurbing the OH's Dolan CX /gravel bike. The parktools guide above is very comprehensive and worth a watch /read, as is Sheldon .
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-trad.html
Getting the straddle wire correct is key to the set up. When set up correctly they are IMHO better than v -brakes.

Definitely replace blocks and cables / straddles*, blocks go hard over time koolstop salmon compound one are good replacements.
*a modern link wire system has advantages over the traditional yoke / straddle, as explained by Sheldon.

 

[roubaixtuesday]

I've read this a lot but never had the pleasure - what exactly is the issue with them?

Where to start...

Firstly, degrees of freedom: height the post is set, height the straddle wire is set, angle of the calipers. Quite small changes in any of these these can make a big difference.

Secondly, none of these are easy to change and at least three hands are required to do them. Changing the blocks requires you to start again...

Thirdly, as the brakes wear, performance changes because the angles change as you tension the wire.

Probably other things too!

 

[All uphill]

The tyres are knackered. They are no good. They are dead. They are ex-tyres.

I didn't bother taking a photo of the cracks in them as I didn't feel it necessary. Trust me. They are done for.

I get that you want this bike right for your sister, and that you'll be happier if she has new cables, brake blocks and tyres.

I'd go for Schwalbe Marathons or Marathon+. I have had Delta Cruisers on my utility bike for 4 years without any problems, so they might be an option. You've probably checked if she has a pump she can manage, and lights?

I've done up several bikes with canti's and always managed to get decent stopping power with a bit of adjustment and new pads.

I hope she enjoys getting back to cycling!

 

[T4tomo]

They seem straightforward enough, but then so do the V' so n my Fuji and they're a pain... although they are paired with a set of levers that only pull about half the cable they're supposed to, which is probably the core issue.

Definitely the issue. Use V brakes with direct pull levers, use Canti's with standard canti / caliper pull levers (approx 1.5:1)

Its a bit like wondering why your Shimano rear mech wont work properly with Campag levers.

 

[All uphill]

Definitely the issue. Use V brakes with direct pull levers, use Canti's with standard canti / caliper pull levers (approx 1.5:1)

Its a bit like wondering why your Shimano rear mech wont work properly with Campag levers.

Do you remember when Shimano made it easy by selling brake levers that had switchable pull ratios?

Happy Days!

 

[Dogtrousers]

I get that you want this bike right for your sister, and that you'll be happier if she has new cables, brake blocks and tyres.

It's not a question of "being happier". The tyres are utterly fecked. They have been flat for years and the bike has been standing on them and there are long cracks in them at the bottom where the bike has been standing. They are a blowout waiting to happen.

I appreciate the good people of CC trying to save a few quid for me but trust me. Those tyres are dead.

 

[wafter]

Definitely the issue. Use V brakes with direct pull levers, use Canti's with standard canti / caliper pull levers (approx 1.5:1)

Its a bit like wondering why your Shimano rear mech wont work properly with Campag levers.

Yeah, unfortunately the levers were evidently specced incorrectly from the factory. I was initially pleased that the higher-end TRP RRL levers were fitted; especially when the next model year came with cheaper Tektro levers.

Now it transpires that someone evidently dropped the ball and my bike represents the transitional cock-up year where they'd swapped to V-brakes from cantis but failed to change to appropriate shifters; which was evidently remedied the year after with the V-brake-friendly Tektro levers..

 

[wafter]

Where to start...

Firstly, degrees of freedom: height the post is set, height the straddle wire is set, angle of the calipers. Quite small changes in any of these these can make a big difference.

Secondly, none of these are easy to change and at least three hands are required to do them. Changing the blocks requires you to start again...

Thirdly, as the brakes wear, performance changes because the angles change as you tension the wire.

Probably other things too!

Thanks - that all makes sense. Hadn't thought about the excessive number of hands required and the fact that everything changes as pads wear.. I assumed that perhaps a lot of problems came from people setting the straddle wire incorrectly; which after reading your post seems more excusable given all the other variables at play..

 

[Paulus]

I've got a couple of bikes with Cantis, and I find that once the pads are correctly set in position, then you can set about getting the cable adjustment done. A cable puller comes in handy if you have one.