The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 850- 852, Tuesday - Thursday January 11 - 13, 2022 Jardín


I appear to be mastering a new skill, an important one, that of being kind to myself. (I appreciate that sounds a bit self indulgent considering what I'm doing and where I'm doing it.).

The interior of the very impressive church. Like the town it was very, very calm. And like the town it was full of birds! They had free reign to fly and chatter around. Some pigeons were coo cooing somewhere up high. I found it extremely comfortable and spent a long time just enjoying.

​

iOverlander had a cheapish hotel on the edge of town that had cold water showers. After several hours in the rain I really didn't fancy a mountain water cold shower. I decided to check out a more modern one that I had passed close to the Plaza. It was a tad more expensive but had hot water. I checked in and everything changed.

A little stream (quebrada) running down to town. It danced over the rocks and made music as it tinkled downwards.

First of all I learned that there was a fiesta in town. The Rose festival, in fact, that celebrates nature, basically. What a wonderful theme for a festival!
Then I had an amazing hot shower (it's one of the great things about a trip like this - I really get to appreciate the simple things) got dresssed and hit the Plaza for more coffee. Without the bike to consider I had more options and chose a cheap place with cheap, but excellent coffee. The noisy places were on the other side of the Plaza so I could let the music drift over me rather than be shaken by it. Two tintos later and Jardín was looking a whole lot better. I've heard of beer goggles but never knew coffee could have the same effect. And unlike beer the effect didn't wear off. For some reason I was reassured by the fact that a festival was taking place. Normal service would resume tomorrow.

I just love these trees but they're damn hard to photograph.

I took a wander in a large square shape surrounding the Plaza, not too far because I was exhausted. I found a friendly place to eat away from the noise and bustle then returned to the fray for another coffee. There was no need to worry about not sleeping tonight!

I was really enjoying the atmosphere. Like most places here it was very family centric with lots of young children out and about. Alcohol was being consumed but there wasn't a trace of any excess or anti-social behaviour. I felt perfectly comfortable.
The only problem was that I was exhausted. It felt so unfair. A Plaza with lots of seats, lots of coffee and other drinks, lots of people and atmosphere but I was so tired I was in danger of falling asleep. The flip side though was that when I went back to my room and got ready to sleep I was already looking forward to exploring the next day.

Not a bad place for a walk. Or a bike ride! It's better than what I rode into town on. Lots of MTBers around. (Not on the road - in the Plaza drinking coffee!)

​

**************

Nobody told my body about my exploration plans! I slept until after 9am, a time incredibly late by my standards these days.
I strolled down to the Plaza for coffee and sat in the sun. It was a lovely day for cycling but I wasn't even thinking about that. In fact, I wasn't thinking much at all. There was something so calm, so comfy that I left my head empty and just felt.

Arty Farty shot

The next day writing this up I can't account for a few hours. Oh, I can recall the details - a couple of coffees, back to the hotel to arrange to stay another night, some breakfast, back to the Plaza for more coffee, but it felt like I was in the world's softest, safest comfort blanket.
I didn't "do". I just "was".

A bigger quebrada ...... More music

There's a very impressive church here but I took in no detail - it was enough that it was there.
There was no shortage of people wandering around, tourists and locals alike, but I paid no attention - it was enough that they were there. I enjoy eavesdropping, not for the voyeurism but for the challenge of language practice, but not today. Maybe it was just that I was tired but it *felt* different. It felt special. Special places should be treated well, specially.
A far, far cry from my first impression.

At some stage I wonderd if I'd be having the same experience after a cold shower?

Bamboo trees exploding from the ground. I am really enjoying these!

Not a shred of guilt was felt for just sitting. My Colombian guide book describes Jardín as probably the most beautiful small town in Colombia. In my limited experience they're not far wrong.
There's a gentleness in the atmosphere that belies its touristic status. It *is* a tourist hotspot, accessible by a better road in a different direction but it doesn't feel like one.
There's no hawkers, no-one selling drugs, the tour operators have subtle signage and nothing else. Calm and gentle.

After having to rush through the really interesting vegetation on the way to town it was so pleasant to saunter along some more. Evening things up.

It's clearly prosperous and with little of the chaos so commonly associated with these mountain towns. Children play in the streets just one block off the Plaza - I haven't seen that before.

I talked this lot into posing for me

The beautiful, calm, very special Plaza​

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 850- 852, Tuesday - Thursday January 11 - 13, 2022 Jardín. Part Two

The streets are in excellent condition and footpaths are a pleasure to walk on - broad, consistent and unbroken.
Drivers aren't consistently using their horns. In fact, I'll hear more hoofsteps from horses than horns in my stay.
Houses are bright, cheerfully painted yet not in any way ostentatious. I formed the opinion that this is how houses are here, irrespective of tourists. Sure, on the edge of town the road surfaces disappear as do the footpaths and the homes become more rundown. That's a more familiar sight to me.

Jardín

There's hardly any street art though. I suppose with so many pretty, colourful and well kept buildings there just isn't the space. It also seems like a place that is confident and content - there's no need for murals protesting or advocating for peace.
There's an impressive church, tasteless Christmas lighting aside, that somehow I just knew would be as impressive inside as out. I knew I'd go in to explore but I didn't until my second day. This is a place with no urgency. At all.
iOverlander mentions a walk up above and around the town. I knew I'd do it but there was no rush. This is a place with no urgency. At all.
There's a Cristo Rey statue high above the town, another place to visit. No rush.

Lots and lots and lots of colour

Having gone to bed looking forward to exploring lunctime came and went and I hadn't moved much beyond the Plaza. I'm a terrible tourist!

I set off for the walk up above the town and strolled along steep country lanes lined with beautiful trees, bushes and flowers. I was seeing nothing I haven't seen in these parts lots of times before, but on foot and filled with a total lack of urgency it was a different world.
There were ríos and cascadas, so gentle like the town they were running down to. I swear they were making music, gentle, meditative music.
There were so many birds and like the town they were content and happy to express their contentment to the world. More music.
Even the houses up here looked content and happy. They expressed this in their bright colours, the reds, the yellows, the blues and oranges standing out happily against the various shades of green.
I can't wait to get back to Ireland and measure up the place I have always condidered the greenest to see if I still think that. The greens here are amazing.

Scary sky? What scary sky?? All I see is this magical tree. Two tuk tuks bounced past as I stood looking at this beauty. I'm sure they thought I was "special"

There's a bar/café along the route where I stopped for some water and to sit. Not tired sitting was such a pleasurable experience after being denied to me the day before. The things we learn to appreciate. A few locals were boisterously knocking back a few beers but the town below me radiated up calm and contentedness.

There's an ancient cable car that runs down to the town that brought a couple of tourists up every little while. They'd arrive, have a drink and catch it back down again. Checking with the barman I confirmed that I could continue walking in down and skipped the ancient cablecar. Maybe I'm not as lazy as I think or maybe I was just enjoying my walk too much.
On the edge of town it's not quite as tidy nor prosperous but the people are just as friendly, as smiley.
Actually, come to think of it, they were more friendly.
Back to the Plaza for coffee and time to let the afternoon take root in my memory. For a walk that wasn't in any way special in terms of what I saw it felt very special.

The church and the Plaza.

Tired, I returned to the hotel for a little while, updated this, enjoyed a hot shower and set off for a bite to eat. I ate in the Plaza from one of several food stalls having chorizo and chicken off the grill. It was surprisingly expensive and frankly disappointing but I had company as I ate. Two stray dogs plonked down on either side of me. Not in the slightest bit intimidating they sat silently as I ate.
I took a stroll around the town enjoying the cool night air.

I can't tell the locals from the tourists. Yes, I can pick out the young (and some not so young backpackers) but the Colombians confuse me.
In a town lacking any of the usual chaos that I see every day I can't pick out the person rushing to complete some errand. There are no queues at the banks. The terrace tables are filled with couples, families, groups young and old and I can't for the life of me determine who's a visitor and who's a local. I can sit in front of the church and see who's taking photos but that's about my only clue. Another unusual thing about this place.

My day finished sipping coffee on a terrace and watching everything and nothing. I was there for about an hour, was the last customer and gun to head I couldn't recall one detail about anything, only that it was a very pleasant hour.
******************

Special places should be treated specially. I took another day.

Up at a more civilised hour I wandered down to the Plaza for a morning coffee. Cool air in the shade made stepping into the morning sun a pleasure. Sitting in it, sipping on a tinto was bliss. That's when I decided to stay another day. Yesterday seemed like a full day and all I had done was take a walk.

Despite my early start it was after 10am when I went looking for breakfast and had the best one since México. Black pudding (blood sausage), scrambled eggs, an arepa and lots of cheese washed down with a bowl, yes! a bowl of coffee.

And this is where Jardín falls down - service. The waitress (and later the cashier) couldn't have been more disinterested if they tried, the waitress actually walking away as I spoke to her, the cashier ditto when I was asking what time they were open since I fancied dinner there later and breakfast tomorrow.
It's the same at the coffee places - brusque is the order of the day. I find it strange. Mind you, it doesn't stop me buying coffee!

I went back to the Plaza simply because it feels so comfortable and had more coffee.

A statue dedicated to women in the Plaza.
A man approaches divinity when he is an artist, a woman when a mother.

At some stage I set off up to the Cristo Rey statue above the town but on the opposite side to my wandering yesterday. Most people take a Tuk tuk up and more than a few passed me bouncing slowly on the uneven road. I was very contented walking. It was about noon and getting hot in the bright sun but I really didn't care because the sun just adds a layer of golden beauty to everything.
There's quite a bit of paragliding here and for a while four paragliders were weaving through the sky.

It was a lovely walk, steep at times, rough all the time but I was in no rush. At the top a café appeared and a man looking after the car parking directed me onwards for more nice walking. Sure, why not?
Dropping down I encountered mud and dogs, at one stage eight of them yapping at me but continued on to a waterfall and the end of the road. Pretty and calming it was no better than anything I've seen already on my travels. I wanderd back past the dogs and stopped for a coffee and water and to enjoy the view of the town.

It was a bit further to the statue, surprisingly small and another café. More coffee and water more enjoying the view. I spied a rough path heading downhill and was delighted to learn that I could follow it down to the town. Rough, steep and slippy it added a bit of fun and adventure to the day.

Christ the King! It's quite small actually. Lit at night it's visible from the Plaza.

Then I headed to a bird sanctuary that I'd seen on iOverlander. Well hidden and not a sign to guide anyone it's a wonder they do any business. Asked on arrival where I was from I discovered it wasn't friendliness or the start of a conversation just a means of determining the price - foreigners pay more.

The birds are Andes Cock-of-the-Rock, big pigeon sized but bright red, blue and yellow. They're totally free so the idea is to perch yourself on a viewing platform and listen and watch. They're no Quetzals / Macaws but impressive. The area that they are in is quite dense but very pretty.

The elusive birds. There are birds all over the town - not just pigeons - and there are signs in the Plaza to help folk identify them.

Back in the Plaza I settled down for more coffee before returning to the hotel for a siesta. I was tired!

Dinner was late but very tasty and reasonably priced. The best food I've come across in Colombia. Afterwards the Plaza was still buzzing calmly. I still couldn't tell local from tourist.
**************

I go to see birds and think "hmmm they're nice". Then I see these and think the entry fee was worth it

The next morning I couldn't leave. I didn't feel like it. So I didn't!

When am I ever going to be back here again? What's my rush?

Coffee country

I'd love to say that I did loads, discovered more walks or hikes. But I didn't.
I soaked. I absorbed. I wandered from coffee place to coffee place. I read. I wrote. What's really strange, to me anyway, is despite all the coffee I'm imbibing I'm incredibly relaxed! Magic coffee perhaps?

Magic tree

​

And I regularly thought what a jammy, lucky fecker I am!


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 853 Friday, January 14, 2022 Jardín to Andes 15 km Total KM 15898
Min meters 1274, Max Meters 1763,
Total Climb 169 Total Descent 610
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 25

Full of big plans

I really didn't want to leave.
I'm pretty sure it was the place and not the double climb later that made me feel that.
Lord knows I had more than enough time to figure out why I liked the place so much but damned if I know.

It most certainly wasn't that I felt particularly welcome. I've felt more welcome in more places than here. This town just speaks to me - unfortunately in a language I haven't managed to translate yet! It is incredibly comfortable and relaxed is the default state for visitors, or this one at least.

I got up, popped out for coffee, loaded up the bike then folded. One last breakfast! Yum! Great food, sullen waitress.

Back on the road and the feeling is good

Then out of town. Big plans today! I'm off to Jericó another small mountain village in some mountains that are higher than where I am. More backroads. Lots of climbing! More of the same, really. First I'll zoom downhill to a town called Andes - I really need to get me a picture of the town name then the offroad road starts.

Vegetation everywhere.

I wasn't on the road ten minutes when my plans started to change. What looked like a brisk 15km drop down to the town of Andes wasn't as down as suggested. The climbs, steep and unexpected, slowed me down but that really wasn't a problem. The scenery was just stunning.

I've done no prep, no research, this area was never on my itinerary but Colombia does not disappoint!

I had loved practically every moment in Jardín and truth be told I wasn't looking forward too much to getting back on the road today. I'm a bit shy of the climb.
But I was loving this too! A different experience, for sure, one that I should be well used to by now, but Colombia continues to dazzle.
In Jardín I'd wanted to soak everything up, tattoo my soul with the place so that I can tap back into the experience whenever I want. Back on the road that urge hadn't gone away. I wanted to tatoo everything onto my soul.

Coffee country on a sunny day. There are probably better views, but not many I'd suggest

I stopped. Frequently. And for enough time to appreciate where I was. I spoke to a man working his field and his two dogs who were trying to be ferocious but were too curious to carry it off. I did my loon face and probably got more toots and waves than I have in a long time.
Back on a decent road in bright sunshine, early(ish) in the morning everything was fan-bloody-tastic!

A road like this helps fire up my Mojo

​

I came to the turnoff for the town of Andes and laboured up a big hill. It didn't look big on the map and I was thinking a quick coffee, a photo with the sign and I'd be off. Ha Dumbass!

If Jardín spoke to me sweetly and softly Andes growled with husky seduction.
It's nothing like Jardín. At best, it's the country bumpkin cousin to Jardín's sophisticated socialite. It's loud and rough and ready .......... and alive!!
It's got street art and broken streets. It's got riducilously steep streets and taxis (I don't recall seeing a single taxi in Jardín. They had to be there but I didn't notice. Here? They'll run me down! )

This is right beside me! Not to brag but looking at a photo is only a tiny proportion of the experience. The smells, the sounds, the wind moving through the leaves are the real experience

It has a fine church on a pleasant Plaza. Just less refined than Jardín. It has terraces on the Plaza, like Jardín, but with plastic
chairs, not those fancy wooden ones. There's a realness, a roughness that might grate on some ears but it's music to mine.

If I ever get bored of these views it's time to put me out of my misery. The fact that all the work to get up here was done a few days ago certainly helps

I got a coffee on the Plaza and the old waiter joined me. Gruff, to be sure but he was more interested in me than anyone in Jardín. It took all my language skills to understand him. Make a concession to the foreigner and speak a bit slowly? Not in this town!

I had passed some impressive street art on the way to the Plaza, the church impressed me, I'd seen another spire on the edge of town, the streets dropped and rose hiding entire blocks from view. This was a town needing exploring!

I can be lost on the side of the road just trying to take in all the detail.

I set off to look for a hotel. Not an easy task. Not many have a prominent sign. Pffffft! No concessions to the foreigners! Too many with too many steep stairs. I found one without a stairs and enquired. A tad steep but very, very comfortable. I checked in.

Then I skipped out to explore. I literally skipped! This town has an energy and I was plugged in!

The colours!!!

This is a strange, hilly little town. I doubled back the way I came to catch some of the street art. Below me are a few coffee buyers, sacks of coffee all stacked up. It looked ..... simple, traditional, quaint almost.

Then I set off to find the other church. That would have a Plaza too! Not the easiest task in a town as geographically chaotic as this (and with my appalling sense of direction) but I got there by availing of a raised walkway. I guess there's only so much climbing the locals are willing to do.

Today's Río is lively and remarkably clean and fresh looking

​

I found the church and had a coffee on the Plaza then set off higher to see if I could get a view of the town. I did and once that was done I followed my nose. With my early stop I had all the time in the world. My nose directed me gradually downwards and I explored the quiet market. I walked all over, up, down and around. I stopped for a cold drink and an empanada and continued on.

It takes a lot out of you, this wandering in a hilly town like this. My ankle still isn't right and nearly going over in it didn't help a lot. Time for more coffee.

It being a Friday the Plaza filled up as night fell. On one table the old men, on another the family with toddlers on another the youngsters drinking. I've always thought a good pub is defined by a mixed clientele - a place where everybody mixes - and the terraces in Andes were like that.

Another disappointing meal and another lap of the town then home to bed. Big day tomorrow - again!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 853 Friday, January 14, 2022, Andes

Making my way to the Plaza there was a twinge of excitement when I saw the spire of a second church. It would be a bit of an adventure to find it!

This was the first bit of street art that I saw.

The Plaza. A bit more rough'n'ready than Jardín but no worse for that. The fact that my coffee man sat down with me for a chat was proof of the difference.

Two Churches. The Basilicaon the right is on the main Plaza. Unseen in the photo is netting in the doorways to prevent birds getting in!

Aerial view of an aerial town​

Street art.​

Stair art!​

No space is wasted for art​

Three sights that charmed me; a bus half full of cargo, the "push cars" on the Plaza and a bird feeder between houses​

At the top of the stair art shot was this beauty​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 854 Saturday, January 15, 2022 Andes to Jericó 35 km Total KM 15932
Min meters 1253, Max Meters 2184,
Total Climb 1166Total Descent 528
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 25


Will I ever learn???

With a big day ahead of me I was up before 5am and made coffee and some oatmeal in the room. With only my water boiler I dumped boiling water on the oatmeal and stirred. OK, but not great. I need to get me some quinoa!

There was a buzz in Andes even that early in the morning. I really liked the town. There wasn't enough there to encourage me to stay especially after an extended stay in Jardín but it was more "real" than Jardín.

Disappointed that they didn't have an "Andes" sign I rolled down the monster hill past the activity of the bus depot and then I saw it! Further away than I walked yesterday, hidden away and small by normal standards - the sign!! I pulled up and two guys sitting in front of it darted out of the way to let me take my photo. One even came over for a chat! It's that kind of town.

Today's Río was cool and inviting in tbe early morning

I set off on a very decent road still relatively flat with a hot, golden sun beautifying everything. It wasn't long until I veered right and the surface changed. I met an MTBer coming against me and he stopped to ask me where I was off to and strongly suggested that I take a different route to what I was proposing. At a little fork in the road he suggested to go right, not left - shorter, better surface and more "lindo". Lindo did it for me - pretty. A local, he'd know these things better than an electronic planner.

This was the "good" road!!

I took his turn and my first thought was "if this is the good surface just how bad is the other one?". It was not easy. Bone dry with rocks (embedded) and stones (loose) it was a nightmare to ride on. Slipping, sliding and bouncing. Lots of bouncing! Not to mention the gradient. Straight into double figures.

Beautiful countryside, an exciting road. I'm blessed!

I took out Osmand for a look. Going this way it showed a route longer than I had planned with similar elevation gain - a big 1000 meter climb before a more "bumpy" continuation. The other route broke it into two climbs - 600 and 400. I continued on - local knowledge supercedes tech.

Gaining height quickly is swiftly rewarded

There was a lot of pushing. Too many times the front tyre would jump after hitting a rock and with all the weight I carry on the front the wheel would land oddly sending me in any direction. Not fun. These roads are what I brought the Extra Wheel trailer for. It would have been perfect today.

Climbing was both slow and swift. Slow in the sense that it was a struggle but swift because the views showed rapid gain. Views are the thing on a day like this and they did not disappoint!

That's my road down there!​

I do wonder about myself at times. I'm not seeing anything I haven't seen before, I'm inflicting punishment on myself to travel a road like this and yet I marvel at and ogle what's all around me. Have I the memory of a goldfish? Am I going around the bend, metaphorically as well as literally? Or am I just making the most of my gift to myself? I plumped for the latter.

Feckin' tough but most definitely worth the effort

Traffic was incredibly light. A few jeeps packed with people, a few private SUVs, motorbikes most usually with families on board (it's Saturday) so I often had long, quiet stretches to myself.
Quiet is a relative term. I had the wonderful company of birds twittering and chattering, exulting in a glorious day and a constant supply of little ríos and cascadas making their own music. This is bloody tough cycling but it is gloriously beautiful.

More height, more views

After about an hour I started having stomach cramps. I was wondering if it was the undercooked oats (unlikely) or using the tapwater to make the oatmeal and coffee. Not critical, but uncomfortable.

Music and life

Buenos Aires (!) was the only village on my route. About 650 meters up it would be a pleasant break. (The alternative had nothing for longer but looked like it would have an accommodation option closer to Jericó). That was my first target and meant that I could drink freely.

I normally leave the roadshots for Strava but today's road was a star. A demanding star to be sure, but worthy of a bit of display

There were a lot of folk out working in the fields and walking from one to another. Many short chats were had and helped emphasise the positive of travelling on a road like this.

It seems that I have finally found a flaw in Osmand. In fairness, these are backroads in Colombia, not something that'll bother most cyclists.
I came to a junction and Osmand was adamant about directing me off the main road. A quick check showed more climbing and a longer route by going Osmand's way. It was the same for bike or car options - it's supposed to take climbing into account for bikes.
I took the main road.
The same thing happened later. At other junctions (a generous description) Osmand always selected the non-main road (another very generous description) even when that was longer and higher, even doubling back to choose the main road. Whatever information is contained in OSM about the "main" road it ain't good!
On these back roads I ignore Osmand's own calculations for climbing and descent and instead look at the profile and make my own rough calculations. The other day approaching Jardín Osmand clearly showed three "bumps" on the descent adding close to 500 meters climbing that simply did not exist. That is unusual. I think the usual discrepancies occur when Osmand doesn't take bridges into account and calculates the descent and rise of the "V" traversed by the bridge.

A star of a road

​

It was very slow and tough going to Buenos Aires but very, very pleasant. I had some wonderful views and while places to stop were limited if I did I could always find a (dry) spot to sit on.

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 854 Saturday, January 15, 2022 Andes to Jericó 35 km Total KM 15932
Min meters 1253, Max Meters 2184,
Total Climb 1166Total Descent 528
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 25

Will I ever learn??? Part Two

These mountain villages are steep and I laboured up to the church and small Plaza. After the customary photo I was approached by another cyclist out for the day - or at least that's what I thought judging by his bike! Remi's from France and is 6 weeks in to a tour of Colombia! Bikepacking.
Talk about chalk and cheese in terms of bikes and gear! (He'd started with camping gear but left it in Bogotá when he realised hotel accommodation was plentiful and cheap).

The simple church in Buenos Aires

We had a very pleasant chat about bike touring - he's done Mèxico and Central America before and bonded over our love of Mexico and disdain for Panamá!
I told him of some of my highpoints (he'd never heard of the Trampoline) and also my detour on the way north to Pasto.
We took photos with the bikes - his, loaded, weighs less than any two of my panniers
I despise (with a passion) any attempt to categorise people heading off for an adventure on a bike. Who gives a flying fiddler's **** about the type of bike or the label? Despite the differences in our speed and daily distances we had far more in common than differences - and I say that about a Frenchman!

The interesting road after Buenos Aires

Since he was coming from Jericó he told me of a short climb ahead and then a levelling off. We parted and I set off up while he was going to have great fun going down! Gizmo wasn't agreeing with his assertion of a shortish climb but once again I came to a junction and once again Osmand had chosen the longer, higher way.
I stopped to do some investigation. The "main road" was half the distance of Osmand's and one third of the climbing. By sticking with the main road the road levelled off around the next bend - the Osmand route had another 150 meters plus of climbing. I think it's trying to kill me!

The fabulous views!

I stuck with the main road looking forward to a levelling off. First, though, I had another encounter with a snake!
There it was, bright, vivid, luminous green, about a meter long, snaking across the road (as they do!). It took me a moment to register it so I jammed on my brakes stopping about a meter from it. The snake stopped too, it's head in the grass at the side of the road, orange eyes turned towards me and it's forked tongue working hard to recognise "sweaty Irish bike tourist", it's body standing out luminously against the grey/brown of the road. Delighted to be seeing some real, wild wildlife I reached for my camera.
But then I paused.
I know nothing about snakes. I'm from Ireland - we don't have any. Anyway, I'm in Colombia so know even less. But a thought crossed my mind. This fella is bright green and making no attempt to hide. He's not scared otherwise he'd slide into the vegetation and disappear. Billy big balls snake must have a reason to be fearless of the loon on the bike. I put the phone back and slowly manoeuvred the bike backwards suddenly conscious of my feet on the ground. With sufficient "safe space" between us I reached for the camera but he was gone!
That was a thrill!

I don't know if I could ride these roads all day every day but they are a lot of fun every now and then!

The road levelled off and descended erratically now. It wasn't high speed stuff but it was dangerous adventurous and fun. I knew I'd have another climb into Jericó but time was on my side and I could relax.

Not quite a waterfall, nor a cascada, more of a rapidly descending río that made beautiful music

On the climb the land had gone from prosperous and diverse farmland to scrub to forest. Now on the way down the other side I had a similar experience in reverse. Again, rounding a bend I went from no coffee to lots of coffee!
It still does it for me! I can't explain (and don't really want to investigate too much) but coffee plants inspire pure joy in me. The feeling is obviously more "pure" in the sun but even in miserable rain it's still a pretty good feeling.
There is no shortage of ex pats who have bought coffee farms here with no prior knowledge. I can understand the sentiment and the drive. Looking at the fields though, it's bloody hard work!
The foreigners have an advantage exporting their coffee to their home countries utilising existing contacts. Small batch, hand picked, organic coffee allows restaurants and independent cafés to charge a premium.

Not a road for lapses in concentration

Dogs were out and about today, mostly barkers, some furiously chasing and barking only to stop when I do, wag the tail and come over to make friends. I am so happy that there's been no negative reaction to my dog bite. It would have a huge impact on these days. Remi reckons that dog behaviour is a reflection of the people in a country. An interesting theory.

Bouncing up the backroads

There was a long push up to Jericó. A crap road (still), heavier traffic and a surprising amount of people out walking made it more pleasurable and social to walk.

I think they're a type of Palm tree amongst all the others

Remi had given me a tip for accommodation on the edge of town but I wanted to hit the centre. Nearly 20% gradient to push up!
I stopped at a hotel and a guest became very excited taking photos, peppering me with questions and telling anyone passing about my trip. A pity he wouldn't pay for my room in return for some stories . Too expensive I stopped at another. Full. When I got to the Plaza I understood why. While definitely a working town it's also very touristy. I had my customary coffee and a chat with an old man who wanted to buy me a drink. Colombia! One coffee was enough so I declined. I thought I'd check out another iOverlander hotel down some ridiculously steep streets. Full!! The push back up was horrendous!
I turned around and rolled back to find Remi's suggestion. It turned out to be a hostel and not cheap. At least for a private room. Basic too. With no other options I checked in.

Getting close to Jericó

Then up to the Plaza for some atmosphere.

Jericó

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 854 Saturday, January 15, 2022 Jericó

On the edge of town the houses are smaller, simpler but coloured. I liked the detail of tge "fancier" buildings but these felt more homely

​

A rare example of street art in Jericó

Some of the "fancier" buildings in town.

A teeny tiny park on the way out of town. These towns like to make use of every opportunity to throw in a few plants and create a little garden wherever they can

The Plaza

This is one steep town amongst steep towns!

I saw this little house on the way into town and was charmed

The rather dull and uninspiring modern church. (I didn't go inside)

Jericó is not a town for wandering around aimlessly on a loaded bike!

It's steep! Everywhere!

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 855 Sunday, January 16, 2022 Jericó to Wild Camp* 6.61 km Total KM 15939
Min meters 1469, Max Meters 2081,
Total Climb 171 Total Descent 659
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28


*Google: 5.8176654, -75.7547034
*Osmand: 5.81810° N, 75.75501° W


An easy day. Ha! Dumbass!

In absolutely no rush I slept a little late. The other residents of the hostel had gone out to "party" and continued when they got back.
I got up and wandered to the kitchen for the free coffee and to make some oatmeal. I took the coffee but baulked at the notion of cooking in the place. It was gross. I hear the coming generation are the most switched on of all and are going to save the world, an optimistic perspective based on my hostel experiences

I wrote up some notes, loaded up and headed up to the Plaza for brekkie.

This photo was taken at 1pm exactly and I was just leaving Jericó! I do like my lazy Sundays!

Being a Sunday the Plaza was busy. Breakfast was regional and I couldn't determine one of the ingredients. Heavily flavoured with a tomato salsa it had a slight meaty tang but the texture was of rubber. Once the idea formed in my head that it was brains of some sort I concentrated on the eggs.

Looking down on Jericó. The town didn't really speak to me. I found it a cross between Jardín and Jericó with little of the charm of either. That may be harsh and my opinion may be clouded by a less than optimum hostel.

Having seen little of the Plaza in daylight yesterday I soaked up as much as I could. Unfortunately, my road out if town was another incredibly steep push - at least I got great views of the town. I paused at the last store for a rare treat - a cold coke and relaxed. I had no rush. A run downhill on backroads similar to what I had come up on then onto a main road. Hopefully some pleasant views.

A Renault 4 and trailer! With colour scheme to match the (food) business!

I set off again and pulled in almost as quickly beside another Christ the King statue. Fabulous views and from now on all downhill.

A lovely road to descend

A smallish road, narrow and with high hedges it was great fun although the Sunday traffic was a tad unpleasant. It's like Sunday is the day that people are on the road "on their own time" and as a result are more aggressive. I'll hear more (angry) horns on a Sunday than any other day.

There's a sheer drop off to the left and paragliders ..... paragliding

I came to my turnoff and paused. Those double tracks of corrugated concrete running upwards. Something seemed a bit off. I took out my phone for another look and yes, this was my road. I considered staying on the main one (prompted, it has to be said by my reluctance to push up the bloody steep monster in front of me) but as I thought a car passed and beeped at me. I dismounted and pushed up.

Turning off the "main" road for the backroad. I hesitated. Maybe I should have listened to that nagging voice....​

The other side was so steep going down that it was terrifying. A pick-up coming against me needed a run to get up the steep and twisty road. Then things settled down and I was treated to some fabulous views. And paragliders! I even managed a short conversation as a pair went by! Having passed a few places offering this and seen a few in the distance it was the close view that had me thinking that the next time I see a chance......

But what a view!! Nagging voice be damned!

​

I continued mainly down, sometimes up, on either rocky gravel or the corrugated concrete strips. The steep bits were steep, in excess of 25% and scary. Those concrete strips are narrow and rough on a loaded bike! In any case, I was in no rush.

Another road to adventure!

Those twin strips of concrete mean steep!

Two sets of locked brakes and the saddle is still digging into my back to take this shot

​

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 855 Sunday, January 16, 2022 Jericó to Wild Camp* 6.61 km Total KM 15939
Min meters 1469, Max Meters 2081,
Total Climb 171 Total Descent 659
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28


*Google: 5.8176654, -75.7547034
*Osmand: 5.81810° N, 75.75501° W


An easy day. Ha! Dumbass! Part Two

Ah now! This is feckin' epic!! Look at my road!

Bouncy but fun!

When I was imagining riding my bike in the Americas I most certainly did dream of roads like these!

Then the road ended and a horse trail began. The thought had occurred to me on one of the crazy descents that having to turn around would be horrible - now I had a decision to make.

I was in my element! Not a sinner around. The closest people to me were the paragliders!

Osmand had selected this route both for bike and car. All it was fit for was a horse. A quick calculation and I figured 8km to the main road wasn't that far. Oh how quickly I forget Costa Rica. Besides, it couldn't get much worse. Could it?

If Carlsberg did roads.......

​

It did. And quickly.
I didn't consider going back. I knew what lay there and it was bloody tough. At least this way I was going downhill with the option of a pleasant surprise.

Somebody said road? What road?​

Rough going...... But look at that view!!

I have all this to myself!!

It was ridiculously steep. Dangerously so. There was no riding. There was pushing and lifting and manhandling. There was sliding and falling, holding on for dear life and letting go for the same reason. Sometimes the path was beside a drop sometimes between large clifflike rocks. At times the path was natural having been created by the passage of animals, at others it was man made, dug between rocks, lined with stones and with large steps incorporated into the design. Those were the worst. There was always the danger of the whole bike flipping over, back over front.

And the first fall​

Going down was never such hard work. Speed was measured in meters per hour not kms. I looked at Osmand and saw where my route seemed to meet up with another "road" before continuing on to the main one. Only 5km! All hope is not lost! The only problem was that I wasn't averaging anything close to even 500 meters an hour.

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 855 Sunday, January 16, 2022 Jericó to Wild Camp* 6.61 km Total KM 15939
Min meters 1469, Max Meters 2081,
Total Climb 171 Total Descent 659
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28


*Google: 5.8176654, -75.7547034
*Osmand: 5.81810° N, 75.75501° W


An easy day. Ha! Dumbass! Part Three

This is not getting any easier

Water now became an issue. Not expecting this I was pretty light and began rationing. This was going to be a long, long day. The sun was out and blasting but I spent a lot of time in the dark, damp shade. Good for regulating temperature but it meant sticky, slippy mud.

But the view!!! The road and river are what I have to reach

And then I met someone! A young fella on a horse coming the opposite direction. Nonplussed he was waiting patiently for me to round a corner.
"I think I'm a little lost!".
He smiled.
"I want to go to Bolomboló. Can I go this way?".
He smiled.
"Does it get easier?"
He smiled.

Well, at least someone knew where I was!

Steep, muddy, slippy

Checking Osmand for progress was very disillusioning. Hours of sweat and effort and not a full km covered. It was dawning on me that I wasn't going to be seeing civilisation anytime today. I had food all I needed was water.

But that view!!!!

A man, walking, carrying a bunch of sticks came up behind me and he too didn't seem to think the sight of a loaded bike tourist struggling on a horse path was anything unusual. He told me I'd reach the road. A little later I came upon a house and he was watching me go by. Something told me not to ask for water and he made no offer just watched me go by. I was a little uneasy for a while.

Imagine living there! (I have a different perspective on that now)

Going by another house I set off a load of dogs barking. No-one came out to investigate but I tripped on a rock, fell down and had the bike fall on top of me! If the dogs were more than yappers I was in trouble.

There are mountain bikes and gravel bikes and road bikes and cross bikes and hybrid bikes. I've spotted a gap in the market - Jungle bikes!

A way off in the distance I could hear the sound of rushing water. I know I've commented on the musical quality of mountain water before but this was a whole new level of aural pleasure. This was Handel's Messiah full blast in the Colombian jungle. I could only hope that my path would take me there.

This was an easy part!

Eventually it did. Not big but moving fast enough that I could quickly collect water. Out with my filter and a refreshing drink! Bliss.

An hour later..... Wedged!

There was no real thought process to the decision to make camp near here. I looked around and of course there was no flat area. I set up on a slope, orienting the tent so my head would be up high. On muddy ground I tied the fly off to a couple of trees. I got organised and thought that I'd be alright as long as it didn't rain.

And another fall.

​

Then the thunder and lightning started.

Home

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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 856 Monday, January 17, 2022 Wild Camp to Bolomboló 33km Total KM 15972
Min meters 932, Max Meters 1422,
Total Climb 580* Total Descent 903
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 29

* Gizmo was in my pocket and recorded all my traipsing up and down ferrying all my gear.


Whoever sang "Mommas don't let your sons grow up to be Cowboys" has obviously never been to Colombia

There had been the odd roar of thunder in the previous hour but with the patches of blue that I could see I had dismissed it. In fairness, thunder and even lightning can be a daily event and doesn't necessarily mean I'm in for a storm. This evening though? There was a storm.

On a ridiculous slope with rain pouring down I skipped eating and fell asleep. Tomorrow will be better was my mantra.

My kitchen!

I slept ok given the circumstances. I did have a recurring dream - of a neat little pueblo, houses of pink and red brick and little streets. Oh what streets! Cobbled and lined with flowers of all different kinds and colours it looked idyllic. Sometimes our minds can be cruel to us.
Of course I kept sliding down, more when on my side than on my back. My mat slid too, the foot of it riding up the wall of the inner. Comfortable it wasn't but not bad considering.

Setting off from the tent. Around the bend there's a sheer drop of 10 meters or more to the left down to the río. Not likely to be fatal but possibly injurious and a hell to get back up again if carrying something like a bike.

​

Sunlight took a while to penetrate and when it woke me I repeated my mantra that today would be better.
That didn't last beyond opening up and looking out.
The vestibule was swarming with ants. And I'm using the word "swarm" appropriately not dramatically.
Remember all the times I've commented on the industry of ants carrying their loads in an organised and determined way, letting no obstacle slow them down?
Well, the little (and very big!) buggers had gone to town on my gear! The plastic bags that my food lives in had been attacked and holes hacked out leaving the bags unusable.
It'll seem silly but I've been using those bags for years - Albert Heijn and Jumbo - and they're a part of my system. I had to bin one some time back but I had a spare!
One advantage of the Pandemic is always having spray alcohol on hand. A good spraying and the ants started decamping. That's when I saw the next level of damage - the footprint(s). Holes picked out and carted off. Not the start I wanted.

The first staging point. This was my system for most of the day. It was hard work but seemed safer and had the advantage that I was constantly moving (as opposed to getting stuck) and the completion of each stage was a definite sign of progress.

Packing everything up inside was complicated but finally I was out and the tent, surprisingly dry and clean*, was packed away.
*It was neither dry nor clean but under the circumstances it's not surprising that my mind was searching for good news anywhere it could find it.

I wasn't hungry but knew I needed food and the río was as good as anywhere I'd get. I set up my Trangia and made coffee and oatmeal. In my tired state I made the coffee too strong and the oatmeal way too salty.
I filtered water for the day ahead and got ready to set off. Getting up, organised and breakfasted took about three hours and somewhere along the line the wallet for my phone fell into the río. It could have been worse - the phone could have been in it. Without that, though, the phone is much harder to use in humid or damp weather.

Mud and rocks. Slippy and unstable.

Today I needed to change my strategy. The path along the river was high and single file only. After the rain it was muddy and slippy as ice. I carried two panniers about 300 or 400 meters to a "staging point", deposited them and returned for two more. Then returned for the last two bags. Then the bike.
This was the hard part and frankly, scary.
Being right handed I walked on the left of the bike on the edge of a stiff drop. Slow and slippy. Progress was very, very slow. The walking over and back had made the path slippier for the most awkward load. Lesson learned.

The next stage the bike went first but the same pattern was followed. It felt like progress was faster because I was always moving but it was hard work. Fully loaded downhill, slipping and sliding back up to repeat the process. I was not a good advertisement for the joys of bike touring!

This was where a hummingbird came over to check out the Feckin' eejit

The landscape kept changing from wild vegetation and mud, the occasional steep drop to gullies between rocks or carved out of mud. It was exhausting. A light rain had started when I did and while it kept me cool it wasn't appreciated very much.

I'd check Osmand every now and then to see my progress towards where there might be some kind of road. It was slow enough that I started to think of another night on the mountain.

This doesn't look too bad but trying to drag and carry everything through was not easy​

It wasn't all doom, gloom, mud and blood. There was some incredible, wild beauty around me. I developed my "system" so that when every stage was completed I'd sit and rest. Did you know that two Ortlieb panniers make an excellent seat? On one such occasion, surrounded by what can only be described as jungle I was treated to a wonderful choir of birdsong. I know I've mentioned birds chattering and twittering as I go past but this felt different. This was singing. A chorus. Joyful and happy all the more precious because the source was invisible and seemed to be spread over a wide area. I couldn't help but feel that this was for me.

On another such break, sitting, resting and silent I became aware of a rhythmic thumping in the air. A humming bird came over to investigate me. Close enough to touch it hovered, bouncing around, satisfying its curiousity. Lacking sunlight it seemed almost totally black. A special moment.

Oh how my heart leapt for joy when I saw this fine example of road engineering

About noon the landscape changed and opened up. This created its own difficulties as now the path was difficult to follow. Sure, I had my gps but it regularly went a different way to the path I was on (with no option to go off course) only to match up again a little later. Seeing a fence further down I decided to explore a little.

While the land was now open it was very boggy. I could see deep hoof prints in the mud under the grass that pointed to where I should go. A house appeared, a large bungalow, not new but extended and to my joy I saw a couple of people.
I called out and they looked at me.
I explained I was a little lost and they looked at me.
I explained I was looking for the main road and they looked at me.
I asked if I could get there by pointing down the hill and the man said yes. And nothing more.
I asked if the road was far away and got "yes" as an answer.
I have to say that it was a very disappointing and disillusioning experience. I got the impression from the house and the people that they weren't farmers (as I'd expect up here) so it was quite possible that they enjoyed their privacy and didn't like to see it interrupted. All told, I was more than 90 minutes getting my stuff down through the boggy field beside their house. It was pretty clear that I was an inept tourist judging by what I was trying to carry and the number of times I slipped and fell. They had no reason to be wary - no-one could have mistaken me for anything but hapless.

I've commented a few times about how hard life must be in these parts with all work in the fields done by hand. This experience was teaching me another lesson: just how isolated life is. No cars. No public transport. Only a horse to get you and anything you need home.

It wasn't all bad though. At the bottom of that field and on the other side of a fence (with a gate) was paradise! A road, of sorts. The kind of small, cobbled road that would appall me on another day was a joy to behold today! I may not be able to ride it but I could load the bike up and walk. A steady pace! Wahoooooooo!

That's what I did; I got everything through the muddy gate and loaded up the bike and set off pushing. In my exuberance I'd missed a couple of details. The "road" was also a water course and the cobbles were lethally slippy for me as well as the bike. Remember, I'm constantly going downhill. Squeezing the brakes too tight and the front wheel locks then wanders where it will with the momentum of all my gear. Stopping my feet was no guarantee that they'd stop moving. My hoped for steady pace was barely a crawl. That delayed me noticing the second detail I'd missed - the "road" only ran about 150 meters and then it was back into a waterlogged field. That in turn returned to the closed in landscape I had been struggling through since yesterday.

And how my heart sank when it returned to this (via a boggy field). Definitely the lowest point of the last couple of days

This was the lowest moment of the past couple of days. Already a bit out of sorts from the cool reception at the house (a couple of hours ago but only a couple of hundred meters away) this was like the last straw. Up to this point I'd been calm, stoic and not letting my emotions run away with me. Now I could feel them gathering strength and preparing to break out. That wasn't what I wanted. There was no place to stop and lean the bike so I picked a rock in the field and told myself to stay calm until there. I heaved and dragged and slipped to the rock and had a smoke and a chat with myself.

My hope of a bit of a road was closer (but still very far away timewise) and I hadn't been expecting anything before that. I told myself that I was no worse off than expected, even if it didn't *feel* that way. I told myself to have a good look around and appreciate where I was and what I was seeing. The sun was out and I had great views of rolling farmland in the foreground and huge mountains in the heat haze in the distance. Then I unloaded the bike and got my system going again.

The countryside opening up again and views returning.....

​

It was hot. And hard. As steep as it was going down it was brutally hard going back up. The bike went first with a bottle of water and a bottle remained with the bags - water at each end. I'd need to be careful again. There were a few cattle troughs filled with runoff water that I could use in emergency with a tab but I'd prefer not to. It was head down and grind.

The path wasn't always so easy or clear to follow. Most of the land was soft and boggy. I was still using my staging system

​

To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 856 Monday, January 17, 2022 Wild Camp to Bolomboló 33km Total KM 15972
Min meters 932, Max Meters 1422,
Total Climb 580* Total Descent 903
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 29

* Gizmo was in my pocket and recorded all my traipsing up and down ferrying all my gear.


Whoever sang "Mommas don't let your sons grow up to be Cowboys" has obviously never been to Colombia Part Two


The path weaved over and back, ever downwards through different fields normally with an open gate. Cattle disappeared after studying me for a while. It was on about the third stage that I met two cowboys.
I was heading up to pick up the last two panniers and they were heading down. You'd swear that seeing a dumbass covered in mud traipsing through a field in the middle of nowhere was a common sight. We exchanged greetings and nothing more.
I picked up the panniers and headed back down to where the bike waited beside an open gate.
They waited and we had a short chat started by me saying that I was a little lost.
They pointed to the panniers and offered to take them down for me. A little house on the right when I met the little road would have my bags. Gleefully I handed over two bags to each man and saw them hooked on to the horn of the saddle. Off they went.

My heroes! Two Cowboys. I mean no disrespect when I describe them as typical country folk. They were quiet, barely using any unnecessary words, they were practical and totally calm. Just being in their presence was a balm.

With a more manageable bike I could just make one trip. Now that I had scouts to follow it was interesting to see how the path moved around taking the easiest line. Many times in the grass I'd have wandered off the "path" but now I had a fresh one to follow.
I don't know if they slowed down for my benefit or if this was a normal pace for them but I could keep up relatively well. It seemed like my luck had turned and I was feeling great. I was thirsty and hungry but I was making progress.

Osmand was right - the place I'd picked out was the start of a rough road. And this one wasn't going to disappear on me! But first the house. The two men turned in and left my panniers on the wall where I stopped and was packing up. My heart was filled with gratitude.

Osmand was right about something! This would lead me down to tge main road. I'd been travelling 6.5 hours to get here, a distance of less than 4km.

I went over to them and explained how grateful I was and that I'd like to buy them a few beers. My money was refused gently with a smile. There was no need. I was offered a cold soft drink which I couldn't accept but did ask for some fresh water. He filled my bottle for me.

The main man spoke very little and very gently. The other chap was even quieter. Maybe they encounter feckin' eejits every other day but there was something so "normal" about the whole interaction. Something "good" in the air.

Never has such a big road looked so welcome!!

I set off, on the bike (!) down the bumpy, gravelly, rocky road. It wasn't easy but it felt so good. Before I knew it there was a big, perfect, empty four lane highway in front of me with a big wide generous shoulder! Where to go?

I was exhausted. It was about 3pm and the sun was blasting down. My original plan was Bolombolo more than 25 km north. I didn't care. Google Maps told me there was a smaller village on the way there closer. South there was another town but that was further away. Go closer. I set off.

In fairness to the road it is very pretty in its own right!
Also, compare Ortliebs. The front absorbed lots of mud, the back none.

Damn but it was hard. There was a headwind, there were rolling hills that killed me - I had no energy. The road was empty. But it was beautiful in the sunshine. I struggled.
Then I had another chat with myself and told myself my head was on wrong. I shouldn't be looking for what was wrong, what was hard, I should be looking at what I'd done. That's when I realised that I hadn't expressed any gratitude for getting out of a sticky mess. I had a look around, thought about where I had been, thought about where I'd be without those two, kind men and I whooped once in gratitude, once for joy. (I had no more energy!)

What I had done was remarkably dumb. I was well aware of that from very early on.
There are not many days when not breaking a leg is considered a success and I had two of them in a row. An injury, a fall and I was in trouble.
My encounter with a snake the other day was a timely reminder that I know sod all about the dangers from animals in these parts. I can't count the number of spiders in webs that I avoided. A snakebite I figured would mean me trying to photo the thing then dropping everything to get down to civilisation as quickly as possible.
Then there's the security situation. What if I stumble into someone's coca patch or poppy field?
Surprisingly in the tent I had a weak phone signal (not a few meters away at the river). I'd thought about sending my location to someone, a copy of the gpx track and to request help if they hadn't heard from me in 24 hours. I figured it was insurance in case of accident or some dodgy people.
But who to send it to? That's a pretty big ask. Someone who is not going to panic. Someone calm and logical. And most importantly someone who will not mock me relentlessly for the rest of my days about getting lost in the mountains. The problem is that all my friends would mock me relentlessly - the message remained unsent.

Relief turns to despair! Of all the villages to be "Privado" it has to be this one, today!

​

With joy I pulled off the road to the small town of Cauca Viejo. According to Google it had lots of hotels! At last! A rest! Unfortunately it also had a gate and a guard. It's a private village. Yep. I don't understand either. A strategically placed store outside the gate was the source of a refreshing coke and I did a bit more digging. Sure, I could make a reservation but it was the kind of rate you'd expect in a private village. Thinking this day would never end I set off again. Another 20 odd kms.

Seriously flagging, a fire truck pulled up beside me as I cycled along. The usual questions. I told them I was going to Bolomboló and the driver told me of a tunnel prohibited for bikes. Oh no!!!! Then he told me how I could avoid it. (As it turned out Osmand was already avoiding it). I explained about my tough couple of days and how grateful I was for them warning me of the tunnel. One of the guys asked me where I was going tomorrow. I looked at him and said "Tomorrow? I have no idea! I'll think about tomorrow, tomorrow". He really liked that answer and almost caused a crash trying to scramble across the driver to give me a fist bump.

In fairness, Mother Nature was trying to ease the despair

Near death experience aside the encounter lifted my spirits for the last stretch. I took the turnoff and left the highway behind now on a simple two laner alongside the Río Cauca. I passed some nurseries and basked in the aroma of fresh oregano. It put me in mind of a good pizza and made me hungry, though.

Down low it's hot! The shade is deliciously soothing. The view's not bad either!

Bolomboló is a compressed, congested little place along the road. Chaotic and steep. Lots of small, cheap hotels but every single one had a horrible stairs. I couldn't face them. I stopped for a coffee and empanada. iOverlander had a hotel, swimming pool and campground outside of town. That'll do. I set off. I was nearly put off by a steep road down but committed.

A río I could have jumped into but I was so tired I might never come out again

​

No camping (probably just as well) no hot water (a loss - my muscles ached terribly) but friendly people.
I checked in, showered and got permission to do my laundry (handwashing) in their facilities. My clothes were manky.

The simple church in Bolomboló. Dumbassery is over for a while......

So was I. In the shower busy washing myself I found a bug on me (nothing unusual these days) but this one wasn't budging. A feckin' tick! A fat little fecker too! Why is it that everything wants to bite me in Colombia?
First aid kit out, tick tweesers and I finally got the bugger off. Alcohol and lots of it on the wound - no stinging and finally my day was over.
I could relax.

A pretty impressive shot (If I say so myself) of the Río Cauca. For most of yesterday and a lot of today it looked so far away...... Not anymore​

Chat? Yes Please!
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[HobbesOnTour]

Day 857 Tuesday, January 18, 2022 Bolomboló to La Pintada 48km Total KM 16020
Min meters 535, Max Meters 633,
Total Climb 484 Total Descent 410
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 33

Sometimes there's a lot to be said for the familiar!

I wandered up town for a bite to eat more out of a sense of duty to get some food into me rather than a desire. I was exhausted, sore and stiff. I got home and fell asleep with no problem at all in the oppressive heat - I'm down low again.

I slept late by my standards and struggled outside into bright sunshine. I was offered a tinto, gratefully accepted and sat down and thought......

I really wasn't feeling good. Two days struggling on a mountain will do that. My muscles ached. My arms were sore no doubt from hefting all those panniers down all those meters. I had bruises from the falls all over. And I was tired. I also had no destination in mind!

The entrance/exit to the hotel. Damn near killed me!

I've tried making contact with coffee farms through the Workaway organisation where travellers exchange labour for accommodation but I've been getting no responses. My figary to Jardín and then Jericó was partly to give time for responses. So far none.

I thought about staying another day to rest up but while there was a pool it wasn't the cleanest and there was no decent WiFi to keep me amused. The town, unusually for me, had little appeal. The Plaza, below the church was cut off from town and not populated and there was nowhere else to soak up the chaos of the town.
I decided to move on, but to where?
Venecia sounded good but there was a serious climb to get there. I decided to give my body a break. In fact, anywhere involved some hefty climbing. In the end I settled on La Pintada, back the way I had come because it was reasonably flat and had a chance to camp. The tent could do with a drying. Besides, after the last couple of days taking a familiar road was not a bad thing at all!

Heading back along the Río Cauca. Familiar, yes, boring not at all. After the last few days a bit of familiarity was no bad thing!

Getting out of the hotel was job one - up a massively steep road. I nearly lost my footing a couple of times and would have been smarter to have unloaded and used my staging system from yesterday!

I hit the town and stopped for a surprisingly good breakfast. Then, in baking heat I set off.

Pleasant, easy cycling.

Back along the Río Cauca then onto the deserted highway and onwards. It was all familiar territory but pleasant. I was a little less tired than yesterday and better able to enjoy the sights. The highway, like yesterday was very, very quiet. The heat made the rolling hills tough work.

The highway. They do like to build separate bridges

I only had about 50km to go, not a huge distance by any means but about as far as I felt like going. The thought of tackling a big climb in this heat was not appealing at all.

An almost empty road, a fine shoulder and interesting views. Almost perfect. The rolling hills were a struggle though.

My excitement for the day was supplied by a huge (to me) iguana that I disturbed sunbathing along the road.

If every day was like this I'd probably go a little crazier than I am but for today? Just about perfect!

There's a loopy approach to La Pintada from the highway and I actually looped around (and over) the campground I was hoping to use. It wasn't what I was expecting being a waterpark as well with dozens of their own tents set up and waiting. To make matters worse it looked closed.


I entered the town from the opposite side and saw no shortage of hotels so I wouldn't be stuck. I pulled in for a coffee and ordering a chocolate donut to go with it got an almighty sugar kick as it was filled with arequipe - that sweet caramel filling. I lazed over another coffee then set off to check out the camping option.

Osmand directed me to the wrong side past the hospital so I turned around and found the gate - open! That was the good news. The bad news was that it wasn't cheap and I had to book at least a breakfast as well. I thought a hotel might actually be cheaper but they all had horrible stairs and besides, I needed to dry out the tent and survey the damage to the floor.

No matter what direction I go there are mountains! For the first time in a long, long time I wasn't looking forward to them!

​

I paid up, found a place to pitch then went for a swim. My arms ached, my shoulders ached and I thought a good swim would help loosen everything up. Afterwards, I wandered uptown for dinner overwhelmed again with tiredness, got back to the tent and quickly fell asleep.


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Days 858-860 Wednsday, January 18 - Friday January 20, 2022, La Pintada

When I'd selected my pitch I was looking for privacy and shade from the sun - I hadn't thought about the lights in the grounds. It was almost as bright as day in the tent from floodlights but that didn't stop me from sleeping.

I awoke before the sun as the parrots who live here make quite a morning racket but then fell asleep again. When I did drag my ass out of the scratcher at about 8am I was still exhausted and sore. I had a cold shower and headed up for a pretty poor breakfast then, since chocolate was served instead of coffee I made my own and tried to think about where to go. I was still feeling very, very tired and any kind of thought process leading to a decision was hard work. I decided to take another day.

Not a bad place to be resting up. Very, very quiet during the week with lots and lots of these types of tents. Supplying a tent to campers is common here

Once that was settled I patched up some holes in the mesh of the inner - I was lucky that few ants seemed to get through - I'd have been eaten alive! - and washed my front Ortliebs. They're a different material to the traditional Ortliebs, are not waterproof to my way of thinking - they absorb water that will work its way inside - and they had attracted a lot of mud.

Ant attack!

That had me exhausted so I took my kindle to the shade to read but fell asleep. I woke up feeling worse. It would be reasonable to have some aches and pains after the exertions on the mountain but not like this. I have some bruising from all the falls but even so, my body wasn't feeling right. I took myself off to a pharmacy, explained the situation as best I could and was given some paracetamol and anti-inflammatories.

An early night and a deep sleep.

The "new" groundsheet is blue!

The next morning it was time to do something. Most tick bites can be harmless but not all. Still feeling terrible I went to the hospital. A man at the gate listened to my story and flipped from casual to serious in a moment. I was told to take a seat.
Within ten minutes I was seeing a doctor. With some symptoms similar to Covid I was a bit worried but I had no fever. A bit of a cough, yes, a bit of a blocked nose, yes but nothing else other than sore muscles and aches and pains.

Mesh attack!

Given a prescription I had to go to the inhouse pharmacy to get my drugs (€1) then return for two injections.
The nurse was no nonsense personified, slapping a bench for me to lie on and giving me a shot in each ass cheek with another patient sitting beside me.

Then I'd to pay the bill (less than €5) and answer a whole load of questions from a pretty nurse whose colleagues kept telling me to ask her out. It's a sign of how poorly I was feeling that I couldn't even muster up any enthusiasm for that!

They really went to town on the new groundsheet too!

Job done I returned to the campground and booked in for another day. I wasn't going anywhere today. I had a swim and having been unable to track down a wifi signal I finally succeeded and got to update this.

The defendant

As I was sitting down the sun changed and since it's so powerful I was inching back into the shade limited by my need to have the phone plugged in. Guillermo came over to warn me about the sun and then set me up in the shade with my own chair! Responsible for the pool (and having been a bit snotty with me in the morning over not having a swimming cap) he was now very pleasant and chatty asking me about Ireland and my trip. When he returned to the pool the music playing changed from Latin to U2, the Cranberries and some traditional Irish stuff. That'll help on a poorly day!

I was starting to feel better as the day progressed. From what I can make out the shots I got are to treat the symptoms I'm currently feeling. I'll need to be aware of any recurrence and keep an eye out for any rashes in case of potential Lyme disease. The thing is that both Lyme disease and rabies have a lot of commonality! Indeed as does Covid! If I become unwell further down the road it's going to be fun trying to get a diagnosis!

The tent took quite a battering from the ants! I've heard of people spraying the inner with bug repellent but not the footprints. In one vestibule they ate through the piece that connects the footprint to the fly as well as lots of holes in the footprint itself.
They attacked the mesh creating several holes (nearly all in one vestibule) and really went to town on some mesh in the airvent of the fly. That's relatively harmless, though.
My idea that the tent was relatively clean and dry was a total illusion revealed when I set it up!
At this stage I'm ready to give up on the tent. I've never liked it and don't trust it. It's interesting now with the extra groundsheet I put under it. There has always been a problem with a damp or wet floor despite using the official footprint. Because my new groundsheet is in a diagonal shape I can see in the morning that that area is dry but the original floor is wet where the new groundsheet doesn't cover.
I don't think the tent will be coming back to Europe with me and I'll hit the first Decathlon I see.

Not the greatest photo in the world but it shows how moisture comes in from the ground through the tent floor and footprint - the new footprint blocks it. Reimpregnate the material? Possibly, but this has been an issue from day one.

The bike suffered too in the mountain adventure.
One of the prongs for the front mudguard came out of its socket but it's an SKS mudguard and designed to do that for safety. I wedged it back in and it seems to be in place ok.
My bottle cage for my Trangia fuel got a little bent but I think I can fix that easily enough. The rear gears are a bit slippy but I think all that is needed is a clean - there was a lot of mud in the cassette. A light I had strapped to the seatpost broke off. I have the light and only carry it on tbe seatpost so no harm there. The big loss is my mirror! It came off somewhere on the last day. In fairness it has been bodged and McGyvered so much it was on its very last leg. Other than all that Roccado seems to have endured the adventure better than myself!

Ditto. Damp floor.

I took yet another day at the campsite. I still wasn't feeling great, although improved, and I figured spending time in the fresh air was preferable to sleeping in a hotel - there's no camping options for a while. I also needed to figure out where I'm going.
I had my heart set on a few weeks at a coffee finca but I'm getting no responses which is frustrating. Medellín is just up the road. Maybe I should give a big Colombian city another chance? It's the second most livable city in South America.

In any case, my mind was made up for me when I set about giving the bike a good clean. My rear rim is failing! There's a nasty crack running about a third of the way around the rim. It's possible that something got embedded in the rubber of the brakeblock and created the crack but the most likely reason is that the rim is coming to the end of its life.
That's now a priority to get a new rim, at least, or possibly a whole new wheel, although the hub is newer.
I can't complain. That rim has travelled the Rhine, to Italy over the Alps, from NL to Ireland and back, all of this trip and lots of smaller trips in NL. All pretty heavily loaded. There must be 25000km on that rim, at least.
I remember when thinking that a rim brake rim would eventually wear out just how hypothetical that was. Here I am, down the road and it's finally happening - what an absolutely amazing complaint to have! I've worn out the rim on my bike having adventures!
I don't think I'd have it any other way!

Proof of adventure!

​

I also found more holes in the floor of the tent. Four of them, three quarters ovals in the floor area of the inner. The buggers were closer to me than I thought!

There's a casa de ciclista outside of Medellín and they operate a bike shop too. That's my next target.


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Day 861 Saturday, January 22, 2022, La Pintada to Santa Barbara 26km Total KM 16046
Min meters 612, Max Meters 1836,
Total Climb 1330 Total Descent 119
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 25

Back on the road

I wasn't feeling it this morning at all. It wasn't that I was staying in a fantastic location - it was pleasant - it's just that there was a severe lack of enthusiasm. And I still wasn't feeling 100%.

I brewed coffee, started getting organised then broke off for breakfast. At breakfast I decided to stay another day..... But changed my mind. The day was shaping up to be cloudy and cooler - I may as well make the most of that. There was a lot of climbing to do, cooler temperatures can only help.

Setting off...... After dithering and changing my mind about leaving I decided it was better to take advantage of the gloomy and cooler weather

I was very late leaving which was kind of dumb considering all the climbing I had to do. Osmand had a gentle introduction then a 1000 meter climb.
In reality, "gentle" was relative. I was climbing from the get go. The gentleness came from regular descents.

There was a time when I'd curse and swear at descents on a ling climb...... But low clouds hugging mountains take the sting out of them

It was good to be back on the bike though. The road was a simple, good two laner with a narrow shoulder that had the unfortunate habit of slimming down to nothing on bends. Traffic was light, or at least tended to bunch up leaving long gaps of peace and quiet.
It was constantly twisting and turning with the gradient on some of the bends pretty steep. With no traffic it was fine, with traffic it was unpleasant. I'd often just pull off the road to let the traffic by. Less stressful.

The climbing was relentless though. Hard work. I was effectively travelling along a ridge with potential views to one side or another but mist and cloud cut down what I could see.

I'm no photographer and can't do justice to scenes like these but these were a highpoint of the day. Lots of hairpin bends (very, very steep) with amazing views

I stopped at a roadside restaurant for some scrambled eggs and coffee but other than that there were few pleasant places to stop and rest.

Forgive the roadshot but look at that view!

With about 7km to go Osmand did it again! It directed me off the road and between two houses onto another horse path! No way! I don't know what underlying data OSM has but it needs updating! There's a lot of things that can be said about me but I do learn from *some* of my cock ups!

Always climbing!

Then I hit traffic! A mammoth tailback (that ran all the way to Santa Barbara) caused by a simple accident, a truck (probably well over on the wrong side of the road to make a bend) had removed the front wing of an SUV. Nothing serious but traffic was stopped in both directions.

With all that climbing there are some great views

This meant that I could continue in relative comfort although I was the only interesting thing for a lot of people! Lots of smiles, waves and even a few conversations (I wasn't climbing fast!). I was nearly at the top when tre traffic started moving again so I waited for gaps in the traffic to finish the climb.

Clear up close but fading to mystery 8n the distance. Can I ever go back to NL after this?

Santa Barbara was not like I was expecting it to be. For some reason (I've no idea why) I expected it to be a little touristy. Not a bit of it. It's a "working" town and incredibly steep.
I laboured up to the Plaza and with no coffee vendors managed to get one from a surly lady operating out of one of several huts on the perimeter.

Mist might limit the views but I do like the mood it creates

I could see a small hotel as I sipped my coffee. I could also see its stairs - a horrible, steep dogleg. I could see another on a far corner. On closer inspection that was over a bar. Not a peaceful spot on a Saturday night. I finished my coffee and wandered. Two more hotels, more incredibly steep stairs with doglegs. I continued on.
Another street, another hotel. Stairs, yes, but only about a dozen. No internet and the promised hot water was ice cold. When I plugged in my phone to charge the light went out!

The church in Santa Barbra. Probably the most elegant building in the whole town

Home!

The busy Plaza. There was a real "working" vibe to the town, tough as old boots but comfortable once "broken in".

​

Chat? Yes Please!
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