Poacher
Gravitationally challenged member
- Location
- Nottingham
Loved the White Stork, but that Treecreeper on the bird table looks more like a Nuthatch! 
The Netherlands and Belgium revisited
- Thread starter totallyfixed
- Start date
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OP
OP
totallyfixed
Veteran
- Location
- The only county without a McDonalds
You are of course correct, however Wieb was insistent that it was a treecreeper and I didn't want to contradict him, I should have altered the scrip but forgot. The Marsh Harrier was terrific though, not the first time we had seen them over there.Loved the White Stork, but that Treecreeper on the bird table looks more like a Nuthatch!
OP
OP
totallyfixed
Veteran
- Location
- The only county without a McDonalds
If you are going to get someone on a bike for more than 5 minutes, you cannot improve on the Netherlands.
U
User169
Guest
This is the house we stayed in, we had our own apartment on the upper floor, absolutely beautiful.
Interesting building - "Azijn Fabriek" - "vinegar factory"!
OP
OP
totallyfixed
Veteran
- Location
- The only county without a McDonalds
Amersfoort to Hoorn
So that was another place ticked off we had not visited before and definitely recommended for a return visit. As with so many of the towns and cities we cycled to there was often a feeling we would one day return to explore a bit more, the problem of course is having the time to do so, already we have had to miss 2 families we stayed with in year 1 and 2, in fact we got an email from one of them asking if we were coming. Clearly it is going to be impossible to see everyone we like when we come back in the future. Today was another goodbye to yet another nice family, I hope we can return one day.
Tonight there was another new place not visited before although 2 years previously our very first stay with Vrienden op de Fiets had been at Alkmaar, just 9 miles from Hoorn, today's destination. The obvious route would be to go via Amsterdam but we rarely do obvious, that would be too easy, instead I had decided in my infinite wisdom that it might be fun to ride across the Houtribdijk, a 27km dyke that runs from Lelystad to Enkhuizen. Two years ago we had ridden from Alkmaar to Leeuwarden across the Afsluitdijk so we had some experience in what to expect. Did I consider the wind direction in my plans, er no.
Up until now the weather had been the best we had ever experienced touring, really exceptional and although we are racking up the miles the wind on the whole been very kind to us. No great surprise then that today it was blowing from the north west, a bit more effort was going to be required, oh well. As we cycled off the sun was again shining and once more we were heading north, first however there was the little matter of stopping at the first supermarket to stock up for the day.
We usually took it in turns each day to go in and select what to eat, luckily we have the same tastes so Vla is always a must, plus something sweet and bread with spreadable cheese of some sort..
Back on the road Flevoland was not too distant, a very unique place, it was once the bottom of the sea! First we picked up a cycle track that ran alongside the stretch of water that separates Flevoland from the mainland. Cycle paths here are almost always silky smooth and wide enough to accommodate several bikes side by side, we managed to find one that was decidedly narrow, so narrow in fact that passing other cyclists coming from the opposite direction when everyone had panniers required skill and nerve, naturally the dutch never batted an eyelid, it did however restrict us to a very slow pootle when we got behind a traffic jam of bikes.
From here we crossed to Zeewolde and had our elevenses by a harbour. At some point we would cross last years route but today it was to be directly into the wind, north west to Lelystad. Long straight paths that made it difficult to get lost, just crossing an occasional road, but these were few and far between. Ahead we could see a roadie, the only other cyclist we had seen for a while going the same way as us. The temperature was probably in the high twenties and the speedometer was reading 18.2 mph into the wind, I gathered this might be a bit of training thrown in to the touring holiday, it certainly felt that way when we overtook the roadie who must have got the fright of his life, I just smiled and shrugged at him apologetically while at the same time trying to project a look that said 'nothing to do with me, I'm just following". He did try to stay with us but the gap gradually grew until he was a distant red speck behind us.
A big chunk of Flevoland is forest, so it was with some relief that we entered the shade of this huge tract of woodland criss crossed by cycle paths.
Not far now to Lelystad, but not advisable to ride through the centre unless you knew it well, we had done this last year with an unwell dr_pink and got thoroughly lost [I need to finish that diary off]. Sensibly we headed for the coast and at one point cycled up a stretch of road we had ridden last year when we had stayed here. Staying on the coast we stopped for a sorely needed lunch stop opposite an unusual ship.
I think I ate more than usual as I knew what was coming, 27km into a headwind on just about the most exposed road you could find anywhere, this is a picture from Google
and another
The start of the dyke was only a few hundred metres from where we were sat so it was with some interest to see how many other cyclists were riding up on to the bridge that marked the start of the dyke. The answer was none in the time we were sat eating. Quite disappointing and a bit worrying.
Our typical lunch.
From the bridge and the start of the dyke we couldn't see the far side, just a ribbon of road disappearing across the sea into the distance, quite surreal.
And this amazing giant sculpture.
Not a lot to say about the ride across because it was head down and give it everything, watching the speedometer tick off the miles on mine and the kms on dr_pink's. I think I would have preferred kms! Only saw one other cyclist going in the other direction with a tailwind, grrr. A very brief 2 min stop at halfway just to see what was there really.
We didn't even climb off the bikes, just kept going. Eventually after what seemed like hours a smudge of land appeared in the distance and the town of Enkhuizen began to materialise, resplendent with hundreds of yachts moored in front. I think we may have set a record for touring bikes with panniers into a head wind for the crossing, 56 mins!
What a relief to now have a side wind as we cycled along the N506. When we saw a sign for a cafe at Broekerhaven we turned off into a delightful small harbour area where a restaurant / cafe looked out over the boats. It was too hot to sit outside but the huge glass of sorbet ice cream and fruit washed down by a beer [coffee for dr_pink] made the heat bearable.
The last 15km to Horn was a relative pootle as unsurprisingly we had made good time to this point, it was only mid afternoon.
A bit of a faff finding the address as the street of that name was a very long meandering one, but eventually we found our address in a very nice residential area.
After showering and washing clothes which were hung out on a small balcony we walked into Horn. Unfortunately a huge fairground had taken over a huge area of the town which prevented us from seeing many of the historic streets and buildings.
Some pictures of the town.
Don't ask, no idea what this was about
Many of the buildings were leaning alarmingly
Ship boys
We ate as usual el fresco, in fact every evening it had been warm enough to eat outside, tonight was slightly different in that only 20 metres in front of where we sat were the flashing lights and noise of fairground rides, completely obscuring the lovely old square. After the meal our routine was to explore a bit on foot, the city maps on the phone helped enormously in this respect, enabling us to find our way back without getting too lost.
Total mileage
So, 66 miles for the day with only one more full day of cycling left in our adopted country.
So that was another place ticked off we had not visited before and definitely recommended for a return visit. As with so many of the towns and cities we cycled to there was often a feeling we would one day return to explore a bit more, the problem of course is having the time to do so, already we have had to miss 2 families we stayed with in year 1 and 2, in fact we got an email from one of them asking if we were coming. Clearly it is going to be impossible to see everyone we like when we come back in the future. Today was another goodbye to yet another nice family, I hope we can return one day.
Tonight there was another new place not visited before although 2 years previously our very first stay with Vrienden op de Fiets had been at Alkmaar, just 9 miles from Hoorn, today's destination. The obvious route would be to go via Amsterdam but we rarely do obvious, that would be too easy, instead I had decided in my infinite wisdom that it might be fun to ride across the Houtribdijk, a 27km dyke that runs from Lelystad to Enkhuizen. Two years ago we had ridden from Alkmaar to Leeuwarden across the Afsluitdijk so we had some experience in what to expect. Did I consider the wind direction in my plans, er no.
Up until now the weather had been the best we had ever experienced touring, really exceptional and although we are racking up the miles the wind on the whole been very kind to us. No great surprise then that today it was blowing from the north west, a bit more effort was going to be required, oh well. As we cycled off the sun was again shining and once more we were heading north, first however there was the little matter of stopping at the first supermarket to stock up for the day.
We usually took it in turns each day to go in and select what to eat, luckily we have the same tastes so Vla is always a must, plus something sweet and bread with spreadable cheese of some sort..
Back on the road Flevoland was not too distant, a very unique place, it was once the bottom of the sea! First we picked up a cycle track that ran alongside the stretch of water that separates Flevoland from the mainland. Cycle paths here are almost always silky smooth and wide enough to accommodate several bikes side by side, we managed to find one that was decidedly narrow, so narrow in fact that passing other cyclists coming from the opposite direction when everyone had panniers required skill and nerve, naturally the dutch never batted an eyelid, it did however restrict us to a very slow pootle when we got behind a traffic jam of bikes.
From here we crossed to Zeewolde and had our elevenses by a harbour. At some point we would cross last years route but today it was to be directly into the wind, north west to Lelystad. Long straight paths that made it difficult to get lost, just crossing an occasional road, but these were few and far between. Ahead we could see a roadie, the only other cyclist we had seen for a while going the same way as us. The temperature was probably in the high twenties and the speedometer was reading 18.2 mph into the wind, I gathered this might be a bit of training thrown in to the touring holiday, it certainly felt that way when we overtook the roadie who must have got the fright of his life, I just smiled and shrugged at him apologetically while at the same time trying to project a look that said 'nothing to do with me, I'm just following". He did try to stay with us but the gap gradually grew until he was a distant red speck behind us.
A big chunk of Flevoland is forest, so it was with some relief that we entered the shade of this huge tract of woodland criss crossed by cycle paths.
Not far now to Lelystad, but not advisable to ride through the centre unless you knew it well, we had done this last year with an unwell dr_pink and got thoroughly lost [I need to finish that diary off]. Sensibly we headed for the coast and at one point cycled up a stretch of road we had ridden last year when we had stayed here. Staying on the coast we stopped for a sorely needed lunch stop opposite an unusual ship.
I think I ate more than usual as I knew what was coming, 27km into a headwind on just about the most exposed road you could find anywhere, this is a picture from Google
and another
The start of the dyke was only a few hundred metres from where we were sat so it was with some interest to see how many other cyclists were riding up on to the bridge that marked the start of the dyke. The answer was none in the time we were sat eating. Quite disappointing and a bit worrying.
Our typical lunch.
From the bridge and the start of the dyke we couldn't see the far side, just a ribbon of road disappearing across the sea into the distance, quite surreal.
And this amazing giant sculpture.
Not a lot to say about the ride across because it was head down and give it everything, watching the speedometer tick off the miles on mine and the kms on dr_pink's. I think I would have preferred kms! Only saw one other cyclist going in the other direction with a tailwind, grrr. A very brief 2 min stop at halfway just to see what was there really.
We didn't even climb off the bikes, just kept going. Eventually after what seemed like hours a smudge of land appeared in the distance and the town of Enkhuizen began to materialise, resplendent with hundreds of yachts moored in front. I think we may have set a record for touring bikes with panniers into a head wind for the crossing, 56 mins!
What a relief to now have a side wind as we cycled along the N506. When we saw a sign for a cafe at Broekerhaven we turned off into a delightful small harbour area where a restaurant / cafe looked out over the boats. It was too hot to sit outside but the huge glass of sorbet ice cream and fruit washed down by a beer [coffee for dr_pink] made the heat bearable.
The last 15km to Horn was a relative pootle as unsurprisingly we had made good time to this point, it was only mid afternoon.
A bit of a faff finding the address as the street of that name was a very long meandering one, but eventually we found our address in a very nice residential area.
After showering and washing clothes which were hung out on a small balcony we walked into Horn. Unfortunately a huge fairground had taken over a huge area of the town which prevented us from seeing many of the historic streets and buildings.
Some pictures of the town.
Don't ask, no idea what this was about
Many of the buildings were leaning alarmingly
Ship boys
We ate as usual el fresco, in fact every evening it had been warm enough to eat outside, tonight was slightly different in that only 20 metres in front of where we sat were the flashing lights and noise of fairground rides, completely obscuring the lovely old square. After the meal our routine was to explore a bit on foot, the city maps on the phone helped enormously in this respect, enabling us to find our way back without getting too lost.
Total mileage
So, 66 miles for the day with only one more full day of cycling left in our adopted country.
jiberjaber
Veteran
- Location
- Essex
loving this, reminding me a lot of last week!...
OP
OP
totallyfixed
Veteran
- Location
- The only county without a McDonalds
Hoorn to Delft
Day 10 since we left home, the weather continues to favour us, we are now going south and unbelievably there is a tailwind. This makes us decide to take a direct route to Amsterdam which we have to cross. It has been a very long time since I was last in Amsterdam, so long that my memories of it are quite vague, dr_pink has been there more recently but still a few years ago so we are looking forward to seeing it again. albeit with a certain amount of trepidation because we are not there to sightsee, rather to navigate across the city as efficiently as possible without too many wrong turns.
After the usual stop at the supermarket we followed the road out to Edam where we ate cheese, no, not really. The cycle path as usual was great and for a few miles we passed trees decorated with coloured blankets around the trunks. Not sure they are easy to see on this photo but considering we were often moving at 20mph plus I am surprised this even came out
Perfect cycling weather, for once the sun was not beating down on us and we made it to Amsterdam in 1hr 20mins including the stop at the supermarket. This was good, it meant we now had a bit more time to get lost, not that we were ever lost, just temporarily misplaced. Funny how when things are going almost too well something happens to even out the score.
Just after arriving at the ferry [free] to cross to Amsterdam Central Station and a minute or two after this was taken dr_pink somehow contrived to catch her foot on her pannier getting off the bike and fell bringing the bike down with her. This could have occurred at any time during the tour, but no let's do it front of a substantial crowd. Very embarrassing.
Central station is in the background
On board, is that a dog?
Disembarking [pun intended], yes it is
The reality of finding our way through Amsterdam was easier than anticipated, we stopped for elevenses in Jordaan, a district of the city close to the centre. Must return for a look around when time allows, in fact since writing this we have taken advantage of a Stena Line offer and will be returning for a long weekend in a few weeks time. I might buy a Dutch bike to go shopping on.
The remainder of the ride through the city was actually quite fun, we cycled through a park next to where dr_pink last stayed. I managed to get a photo that showed the variety of activities here. At the entrance to the park there were 2 cyclists with touring panniers on that stood out from everyone else, they were wearing helmets, it looked very odd. They were English.
The next major town was Leiden, rain was threatening from behind so we tried to outrun it. As in Brussels we had planned our route so we followed the signs to Schiphol airport, thinking that this would get us out of Amsterdam reasonably easily, which it did. Schiphol was massive, we cycled with it to our right for miles. Lunch was taken at Aalsmeer, then full steam ahead for Leiden where it rained and we got temporarily misplaced. The rain only lasted 15 mins or so but when you are trying to find the route out towards Delft it seemed a lot worse. Canals everywhere and very convoluted cycle paths making it difficult to work out which one to follow. Eventually I asked someone on a bike, a very nice chap who actually lived in Delft and was on his way there now. We rode with him for a while before stopping briefly for a comfort break and another snack. There was the odd hold up on the way
By the time we reached Delft the sun was shining again and the temp was rising, a nice welcome back to a town we were getting know quite well, this was our third visit. Again we had arrived too early and our host was just going out so we cycled the short distance to our friends Katinka and Lauren . So wonderful to see them again,we had kept them updated on our progress so we were expected. After tea and chatter we returned to our host address, showered, changed and then returned to our friends house
for dinner and a small amount of alcohol. A really excellent evening.
Mileage so far
70 miles for the day.
Day 10 since we left home, the weather continues to favour us, we are now going south and unbelievably there is a tailwind. This makes us decide to take a direct route to Amsterdam which we have to cross. It has been a very long time since I was last in Amsterdam, so long that my memories of it are quite vague, dr_pink has been there more recently but still a few years ago so we are looking forward to seeing it again. albeit with a certain amount of trepidation because we are not there to sightsee, rather to navigate across the city as efficiently as possible without too many wrong turns.
After the usual stop at the supermarket we followed the road out to Edam where we ate cheese, no, not really. The cycle path as usual was great and for a few miles we passed trees decorated with coloured blankets around the trunks. Not sure they are easy to see on this photo but considering we were often moving at 20mph plus I am surprised this even came out
Perfect cycling weather, for once the sun was not beating down on us and we made it to Amsterdam in 1hr 20mins including the stop at the supermarket. This was good, it meant we now had a bit more time to get lost, not that we were ever lost, just temporarily misplaced. Funny how when things are going almost too well something happens to even out the score.
Just after arriving at the ferry [free] to cross to Amsterdam Central Station and a minute or two after this was taken dr_pink somehow contrived to catch her foot on her pannier getting off the bike and fell bringing the bike down with her. This could have occurred at any time during the tour, but no let's do it front of a substantial crowd. Very embarrassing.
Central station is in the background
On board, is that a dog?
Disembarking [pun intended], yes it is
The reality of finding our way through Amsterdam was easier than anticipated, we stopped for elevenses in Jordaan, a district of the city close to the centre. Must return for a look around when time allows, in fact since writing this we have taken advantage of a Stena Line offer and will be returning for a long weekend in a few weeks time. I might buy a Dutch bike to go shopping on.
The remainder of the ride through the city was actually quite fun, we cycled through a park next to where dr_pink last stayed. I managed to get a photo that showed the variety of activities here. At the entrance to the park there were 2 cyclists with touring panniers on that stood out from everyone else, they were wearing helmets, it looked very odd. They were English.
The next major town was Leiden, rain was threatening from behind so we tried to outrun it. As in Brussels we had planned our route so we followed the signs to Schiphol airport, thinking that this would get us out of Amsterdam reasonably easily, which it did. Schiphol was massive, we cycled with it to our right for miles. Lunch was taken at Aalsmeer, then full steam ahead for Leiden where it rained and we got temporarily misplaced. The rain only lasted 15 mins or so but when you are trying to find the route out towards Delft it seemed a lot worse. Canals everywhere and very convoluted cycle paths making it difficult to work out which one to follow. Eventually I asked someone on a bike, a very nice chap who actually lived in Delft and was on his way there now. We rode with him for a while before stopping briefly for a comfort break and another snack. There was the odd hold up on the way
By the time we reached Delft the sun was shining again and the temp was rising, a nice welcome back to a town we were getting know quite well, this was our third visit. Again we had arrived too early and our host was just going out so we cycled the short distance to our friends Katinka and Lauren . So wonderful to see them again,we had kept them updated on our progress so we were expected. After tea and chatter we returned to our host address, showered, changed and then returned to our friends house
for dinner and a small amount of alcohol. A really excellent evening.
Mileage so far
70 miles for the day.
OP
OP
totallyfixed
Veteran
- Location
- The only county without a McDonalds
Delft to Hoek van Holland
Boo hoo, our last day in the Netherlands. At least there was no rush to get to the ship, we weren't sailing until the evening so that left most of the day to look around. We did the same thing last year, so after breakfast we cycled over to our friends and left our bikes with them so we could play at being proper tourists on foot. It was only 10 mins walk into the centre, today the market was on so plenty to look at. The walk in was different to last year in that the railway station where we had met Katinka last year was no longer there, it had gone underground and is actually floating! Only the Dutch...
This is the view from the first bridge you walk over just before walking into the centre.
I am going to revert to a few stock photos from Google because the market obscured many of the scenic buildings. This is the main square where the market was.
This is typical Delft and where we spent much of the morning wandering around
What's not to like?
There was a stall on the market that sold all manner of bakery items which we had noted on first inspection, so after a coffee and snack while being entertained by a large group of Dutch children singing and dancing who were on a holiday camp, we headed back to the stall we had noted earlier. It was very busy and the more I looked at the food there, the more I wanted. We had told our friends that we would buy lunch [they were working from home], it was actually quite hilarious to an onlooker, every time the woman who was serving asked if that was all, one of us saw something else that looked yummy. We bought a lot, some of which I was still eating several days after we got home in the UK.
This is very close to our friend's house. [back to my photos]
Our farewell lunch was taken in their tiny back yard, it was baking hot, everyone was trying to sit in the shade with not much success. We talked for ages, cognisant of the fact that we would have to leave soon and for Katinka and Lauren it was a working day. Extremely sad to leave, this was the third time we have done this and each time it gets a little harder, partly because we have no idea when we might return, hopefully they will come and stay with us.
Last year we had taken the direct route to the Hoek and got slightly misplaced, this time given we had oodles of time it was decided we would go out to the coast, maybe have a swim then follow the North Sea route back to the port. Quite fitting really as 2 years previously when we first met Katinka who was returning from a cycling trip to England, we rode with her to Delft, missing out the first part of the coastal path, only returning to it just north of Den Haag, that day we were going to Alkmaar for our very first stay with Vrienden op de Fiets. A lot of water has passed under the bridge [terrible pun] since then, now we consider ourselves experienced navigators in the Netherlands. We got lost. It is only 10km as the crow flies from Delft to the coast. I don't think either of us were concentrating but suffice to say that if you were looking at our tracks from above a drunken spider would have done better. Just like 2 years ago it was a diversion that threw a spanner in the works.
When we eventually reached the coast at Den Haag it was packed with sunbathers and the temp was in the mid thirties.
A decision was made to cycle a little further down the coast where we could access the beach easier and keep an eye on the bikes. Unfortunately the Dutch are far too organised, there were only a few access points to the beach, it was here you left your bike and walked the short distance through the dunes to the sea. Too risky to leave the bikes and no way were we going to lug panniers, bar bag and drink bottles 200m to get to the sea.
This is the superb coastal path and illustrates the problems we faced.
It was actually so hot by now that what fluid was left in our bottles was warm so after a quick consultation with the map we thought the best plan was to go cycle into the nearest town and do a supermarket raid, that place was the superbly named Monster. It also had a superb supermarket where we consumed a great deal of fluid.
Arriving at the docks we were still early so we sat on a bench on the raised cycle path and ate a huge salad with Vla and cakes for desert. A brilliant end to our Netherlands journey. There was not a shred of doubt we would be back.
Fittingly, the weather looked to be changing, as we queued to get on board the storm clouds were gathering out to sea, I only hoped we would get on board before they arrived.
Our journey today should only have been around 16 miles, the reading on my speedometer which again has not uploaded reads 641 miles which means we did 23 miles this afternoon, this equates to 7 extra miles going round in circles. Oh well if you are going to get lost do it when time is not of the essence.
Once on board and first to secure our bikes we used the lift, so much easier, in the past there was always a queue, but we were getting quick at this and knew our way around, it was after all our 6th trip on this ship. After a shower which has to be said is one of the best, changed and refreshed, we settled down to the odd glass of wine in the lounge area, the rain arrived accompanied by thunder and some dramatic lightning, many passengers made their way outside under the covered area to try and get pictures of the forked lightning. It made us feel a tiny bit better about leaving, but not much.
The longest and hardest ride would be tomorrow on home soil, but would we stay dry? It wasn't looking likely.
Boo hoo, our last day in the Netherlands. At least there was no rush to get to the ship, we weren't sailing until the evening so that left most of the day to look around. We did the same thing last year, so after breakfast we cycled over to our friends and left our bikes with them so we could play at being proper tourists on foot. It was only 10 mins walk into the centre, today the market was on so plenty to look at. The walk in was different to last year in that the railway station where we had met Katinka last year was no longer there, it had gone underground and is actually floating! Only the Dutch...
This is the view from the first bridge you walk over just before walking into the centre.
I am going to revert to a few stock photos from Google because the market obscured many of the scenic buildings. This is the main square where the market was.
This is typical Delft and where we spent much of the morning wandering around
What's not to like?
There was a stall on the market that sold all manner of bakery items which we had noted on first inspection, so after a coffee and snack while being entertained by a large group of Dutch children singing and dancing who were on a holiday camp, we headed back to the stall we had noted earlier. It was very busy and the more I looked at the food there, the more I wanted. We had told our friends that we would buy lunch [they were working from home], it was actually quite hilarious to an onlooker, every time the woman who was serving asked if that was all, one of us saw something else that looked yummy. We bought a lot, some of which I was still eating several days after we got home in the UK.
This is very close to our friend's house. [back to my photos]
Our farewell lunch was taken in their tiny back yard, it was baking hot, everyone was trying to sit in the shade with not much success. We talked for ages, cognisant of the fact that we would have to leave soon and for Katinka and Lauren it was a working day. Extremely sad to leave, this was the third time we have done this and each time it gets a little harder, partly because we have no idea when we might return, hopefully they will come and stay with us.
Last year we had taken the direct route to the Hoek and got slightly misplaced, this time given we had oodles of time it was decided we would go out to the coast, maybe have a swim then follow the North Sea route back to the port. Quite fitting really as 2 years previously when we first met Katinka who was returning from a cycling trip to England, we rode with her to Delft, missing out the first part of the coastal path, only returning to it just north of Den Haag, that day we were going to Alkmaar for our very first stay with Vrienden op de Fiets. A lot of water has passed under the bridge [terrible pun] since then, now we consider ourselves experienced navigators in the Netherlands. We got lost. It is only 10km as the crow flies from Delft to the coast. I don't think either of us were concentrating but suffice to say that if you were looking at our tracks from above a drunken spider would have done better. Just like 2 years ago it was a diversion that threw a spanner in the works.
When we eventually reached the coast at Den Haag it was packed with sunbathers and the temp was in the mid thirties.
A decision was made to cycle a little further down the coast where we could access the beach easier and keep an eye on the bikes. Unfortunately the Dutch are far too organised, there were only a few access points to the beach, it was here you left your bike and walked the short distance through the dunes to the sea. Too risky to leave the bikes and no way were we going to lug panniers, bar bag and drink bottles 200m to get to the sea.
This is the superb coastal path and illustrates the problems we faced.
It was actually so hot by now that what fluid was left in our bottles was warm so after a quick consultation with the map we thought the best plan was to go cycle into the nearest town and do a supermarket raid, that place was the superbly named Monster. It also had a superb supermarket where we consumed a great deal of fluid.
Arriving at the docks we were still early so we sat on a bench on the raised cycle path and ate a huge salad with Vla and cakes for desert. A brilliant end to our Netherlands journey. There was not a shred of doubt we would be back.
Fittingly, the weather looked to be changing, as we queued to get on board the storm clouds were gathering out to sea, I only hoped we would get on board before they arrived.
Our journey today should only have been around 16 miles, the reading on my speedometer which again has not uploaded reads 641 miles which means we did 23 miles this afternoon, this equates to 7 extra miles going round in circles. Oh well if you are going to get lost do it when time is not of the essence.
Once on board and first to secure our bikes we used the lift, so much easier, in the past there was always a queue, but we were getting quick at this and knew our way around, it was after all our 6th trip on this ship. After a shower which has to be said is one of the best, changed and refreshed, we settled down to the odd glass of wine in the lounge area, the rain arrived accompanied by thunder and some dramatic lightning, many passengers made their way outside under the covered area to try and get pictures of the forked lightning. It made us feel a tiny bit better about leaving, but not much.
The longest and hardest ride would be tomorrow on home soil, but would we stay dry? It wasn't looking likely.
OP
OP
totallyfixed
Veteran
- Location
- The only county without a McDonalds
Harwich to Cambridge
Whilst waiting to board the ship we had got talking to other cyclists, a German couple who were heading for the West Country and an American who was going to
Heathrow to fly back home. Neither had ridden in the UK before so I offered to point out a route that avoided Essex A roads. In the morning we didn't see them until we got down to the vehicle deck to retrieve our bikes. The American woman had decided to get the train to London, along with most of the other cyclists it seemed. The German couple however were happy to follow us some of the way, at least to get out of Harwich. Unfortunately there is no alternative to riding on the A120 for the first couple of miles or so without going a long way round up into Harwich, before turning off right on the B road to Manningtree. Also unfortunately there is more than usual traffic, including trucks that have also disembarked from the same ship.
When we first met this German couple they had not been wearing helmets but had brought them for the UK because they believed it to be more dangerous, they were a little surprised to discover that we did not have helmets. I explained why, and to their credit they listened carefully to our reasons for not wearing them, the upshot being the husband went bare headed and the wife put hers on.
At least it wasn't raining and the sun even came out a bit later but all the time there was the threat of rain and the forecast was for it to rain heavily by midday. I set a gentle pace on the A120 so as not to drop our German friends, it wasn't the most pleasant of rides, being passed constantly by fast moving traffic. Ten minutes later we were on the quiet back road to Manningtree, our German friends waved us on saying they would hold us back so we said goodbye and headed for our usual bakery 11 miles down the road in Manningtree.
The route back was the same one we had used 11 days previously but in reverse. It really did not feel like we had been away 11 days, covered so much territory and just packed so much in to a relatively short space of time, it felt like yesterday we were travelling these same roads. In Manningtree we had breakfast from the same bakery we first discovered 3 years ago. After fuelling up with coffee and hot rolls, just as we were about to set off the German couple hove into sight, they were very happy to be shown the bakery which is hidden away off the main street. Another goodbye and well wishes to them and we were off. No need for maps, this was well trodden ground. A stop at Hadleigh for toilets, a quick hello to the folk in the cycle shop there who kindly let us use their track pump to top up our tyres.
The miles fairly whizzed by and before long Lavenham was reached.
It is a beautiful village, often used in period filming. A famous author lives here who is a friend of dr_pink's mum, we have never met her but we are always being told to call in and say hello, not done so yet, maybe one day. Next stop is the cafe we had called in at on our way, the manageress couldn't believe where we had been in such a short time. As in previous years we visit our old friends in Cambridge who treat us to dinner before getting on the pre booked train from Cambridge to Oakham. We made such good time that it was only mid afternoon when we rolled into Cambridge in spite of all the stops on the way. Unbelievably it still had not rained and as our friends were still at work it a suitable cafe was found on Mill St [our favourite road in Cambridge], expensive food but nice staff and clientele that did not seem to be in a rush to go anywhere. After carrying a waterproof bike cover all holiday it was finally brought into use. The rain was not bad to begin with and we watched Mill Rd filling up with commuters, many on bikes, making their soggy way home on a Friday afternoon.
During the 2 mile ride to our friend's house we got soaked and for the first and last time a change into dry clothes was needed. A very pleasant evening ensued, so much so that we cut it a bit fine getting to the station.
The last leg, travelling across the fens on the train.
And finally home, just a few minutes ride from the station.
Our final mileage and 81 miles for the day.
Why do we keep returning? As with most things it is a combination of factors, first and foremost has to be if you are a cyclist you feel immediately at home and welcome, secondly it's meeting people and renewing friendships, thirdly, the way of life over there is so much less rushed, aided and abetted by the cafe culture and being able to do just about everything by bike. Add to all that the populations is so much healthier than here in the UK, it is a joy to see the older generation out in groups on their ebikes miles from anywhere. You don't go there for the scenery necessarily, though the coast is beautiful and the architecture can be stunning, after all there are no long vistas to appreciate from elevated positions because there are so few hills.
The way of life is extremely appealing and we will return. In fact since writing this we have booked to go back for a long weekend on a rail and sail deal in November. It is entirely possible one or more Dutch bikes will be making the journey back with us.
Whilst waiting to board the ship we had got talking to other cyclists, a German couple who were heading for the West Country and an American who was going to
Heathrow to fly back home. Neither had ridden in the UK before so I offered to point out a route that avoided Essex A roads. In the morning we didn't see them until we got down to the vehicle deck to retrieve our bikes. The American woman had decided to get the train to London, along with most of the other cyclists it seemed. The German couple however were happy to follow us some of the way, at least to get out of Harwich. Unfortunately there is no alternative to riding on the A120 for the first couple of miles or so without going a long way round up into Harwich, before turning off right on the B road to Manningtree. Also unfortunately there is more than usual traffic, including trucks that have also disembarked from the same ship.
When we first met this German couple they had not been wearing helmets but had brought them for the UK because they believed it to be more dangerous, they were a little surprised to discover that we did not have helmets. I explained why, and to their credit they listened carefully to our reasons for not wearing them, the upshot being the husband went bare headed and the wife put hers on.
At least it wasn't raining and the sun even came out a bit later but all the time there was the threat of rain and the forecast was for it to rain heavily by midday. I set a gentle pace on the A120 so as not to drop our German friends, it wasn't the most pleasant of rides, being passed constantly by fast moving traffic. Ten minutes later we were on the quiet back road to Manningtree, our German friends waved us on saying they would hold us back so we said goodbye and headed for our usual bakery 11 miles down the road in Manningtree.
The route back was the same one we had used 11 days previously but in reverse. It really did not feel like we had been away 11 days, covered so much territory and just packed so much in to a relatively short space of time, it felt like yesterday we were travelling these same roads. In Manningtree we had breakfast from the same bakery we first discovered 3 years ago. After fuelling up with coffee and hot rolls, just as we were about to set off the German couple hove into sight, they were very happy to be shown the bakery which is hidden away off the main street. Another goodbye and well wishes to them and we were off. No need for maps, this was well trodden ground. A stop at Hadleigh for toilets, a quick hello to the folk in the cycle shop there who kindly let us use their track pump to top up our tyres.
The miles fairly whizzed by and before long Lavenham was reached.
It is a beautiful village, often used in period filming. A famous author lives here who is a friend of dr_pink's mum, we have never met her but we are always being told to call in and say hello, not done so yet, maybe one day. Next stop is the cafe we had called in at on our way, the manageress couldn't believe where we had been in such a short time. As in previous years we visit our old friends in Cambridge who treat us to dinner before getting on the pre booked train from Cambridge to Oakham. We made such good time that it was only mid afternoon when we rolled into Cambridge in spite of all the stops on the way. Unbelievably it still had not rained and as our friends were still at work it a suitable cafe was found on Mill St [our favourite road in Cambridge], expensive food but nice staff and clientele that did not seem to be in a rush to go anywhere. After carrying a waterproof bike cover all holiday it was finally brought into use. The rain was not bad to begin with and we watched Mill Rd filling up with commuters, many on bikes, making their soggy way home on a Friday afternoon.
During the 2 mile ride to our friend's house we got soaked and for the first and last time a change into dry clothes was needed. A very pleasant evening ensued, so much so that we cut it a bit fine getting to the station.
The last leg, travelling across the fens on the train.
And finally home, just a few minutes ride from the station.
Our final mileage and 81 miles for the day.
Why do we keep returning? As with most things it is a combination of factors, first and foremost has to be if you are a cyclist you feel immediately at home and welcome, secondly it's meeting people and renewing friendships, thirdly, the way of life over there is so much less rushed, aided and abetted by the cafe culture and being able to do just about everything by bike. Add to all that the populations is so much healthier than here in the UK, it is a joy to see the older generation out in groups on their ebikes miles from anywhere. You don't go there for the scenery necessarily, though the coast is beautiful and the architecture can be stunning, after all there are no long vistas to appreciate from elevated positions because there are so few hills.
The way of life is extremely appealing and we will return. In fact since writing this we have booked to go back for a long weekend on a rail and sail deal in November. It is entirely possible one or more Dutch bikes will be making the journey back with us.
stumpy66
Veteran
- Location
- Lanarkshire
Nice write up, I need to venture further afield than the Highlands and Islands
vigomag
Über Member
- Location
- Chester le Street
Interesting read and some cracking views ,I have been thinking of doing a solo week next year to visit the WW1 memorials. The plan I had was something along the lines of Dunkirk Ypres Ghent Brugge Ostend with possibly Antwerp I would not want to do more than 40mile per day max but any tips appreciated at this early planning stage
OP
OP
totallyfixed
Veteran
- Location
- The only county without a McDonalds
If you are not camping it is possible to travel extremely light, we joined the organisation Vrienden op de Fiets, cannot recommend it highly enough. In some of the places you stay you have your own cooking facilities so that can work out a bit cheaper. Ask away if you have any questions.
derrick
The Glue that binds us together.
- Location
- On the edge of London
Great write up, Lovely pics. That bought back so many memories, We plan to go back again hopefully next year. Fell in love with Delft, and a few parts of Belgium,
Thank you for sharing this. It was great reading about your experience of parts of Holland where I grew up. For those who contemplate something similar, it may be interesting to have the link to the bike route planner for the Netherlands: http://routeplanner.fietsersbond.nl/
It allows you to plan a route according to your preferences (fast, off road, scenic, almost no cars, etc) and either print directions, or download a gps track. It has given me many surprisingly attractive routes, even close to home. Only cycling on the cycle paths next to main roads may be safe, but is really boring. The website's interface is in a few languages, including English.
For Garmin users the open street map for the Benelux may also be useful : http://www.openfietsmap.nl/
It allows you to plan a route according to your preferences (fast, off road, scenic, almost no cars, etc) and either print directions, or download a gps track. It has given me many surprisingly attractive routes, even close to home. Only cycling on the cycle paths next to main roads may be safe, but is really boring. The website's interface is in a few languages, including English.
For Garmin users the open street map for the Benelux may also be useful : http://www.openfietsmap.nl/
