the setup of clipliss pedals

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I have ordered my first pair of clipless pedals shimano a530 and the shimano m088 wide shoes.
do you have to do anything special fitting wise, except remove old pedals, attach new pedals and screw cleat on shoe.

I ask because I have seen internet site and videos saying you have to make sure they are fitted properly by aligning things up or it can cause a lot of pain.

thanks
 

rb58

Enigma
Location
Bexley, Kent
Sit on your kitchen table and let your legs dangle. Then try to match the natural angle of your feet to the angle of the cleat on the shoe.
 

Shut Up Legs

Down Under Member
You may have to adjust the following:
  • spring tension on the pedals - there will be a bolt, probably with a hex-shaped end, that you'll need to adjust to loosen or tighten the pedals. Too loose, and the cleats move around when you're clipped in. Too tight, and clipping in and unclipping takes more force.
  • cleat front/rear position on the bottom of the shoe, which determines how far forward your feet are on the pedals. Optimum position is generally with the front balls of your feet just over the pedals.
  • cleat angle - this is the deviation from straight forward. If the front of your cleats are pointing slightly inwards towards the bike, then your feet (and also knees) will point slightly outwards away from the bike. And vice versa. As @rb58 said, use the cleat angle that matches the natural angle of your feet (and it may not be the same for both feet).
Just play with the above combinations until you find one that's the most comfortable :smile:.

I don't know if I missed anything, but no doubt the real experts will come along soon and correct me if I did.
 
THIS might help, or of course, AASHTA

FWIW I've never messed with the tension setting on any pedals, they've always been OK straight out of the box.

If you do fettle with it though I'd suggest fettling in 1/4 turns and remembering exactly how much you've fettled and which way you fettled it, that way you can easily unfettle if need be.

Happy fettling ^_^

[EDIT] if you have a turbo trainer they are ideal for practicing on without the fear of an impending FACEPLANT ;)
 
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Octet

Veteran
Don't forget to take them for a quick spin before you go out on a commute or a long distance ride. Going up and down the road, or for a short couple of mile loop should suffice. When doing this, take a multi-tool or stick a hex key in your back pocket.

This has two objected, firstly you can get used to clipping and unclipping (very important).

The second is so that you can make minor adjustments easily at the road side, just to get the cleats into the correct position for your riding style. It wouldn't be unusual for you to get them lined up perfectly at home but find that it just isn't working out when you actually start pedalling. Simply take your shoe off, make the change you think you might need and then try it again.
Alternatively, rollers or a turbo trainer would do the same thing.
 

rb58

Enigma
Location
Bexley, Kent
And I'd suggest a drop of thread lock (or nail varnish if you don't have any thread lock) on the cleat bolts. It's not funny if the bolts come loose when you're riding - you'll remember to unclip, but will find you can't. Don't ask me how I know this.
 
And I'd suggest a drop of thread lock (or nail varnish if you don't have any thread lock) on the cleat bolts. It's not funny if the bolts come loose when you're riding - you'll remember to unclip, but will find you can't. Don't ask me how I know this.
Never had a cleat bolt come undone TBH, in fact they are usually a right pig to get undone IME.

If you do have a problem though and want to try a fixing liquid, I'd maybe suggest superglue, at least it will break away under low pressure when you need it to, maybe nail varnish does the same IDK, but I'd certainly not use thread lock TBH.
 

Octet

Veteran
And I'd suggest a drop of thread lock (or nail varnish if you don't have any thread lock) on the cleat bolts. It's not funny if the bolts come loose when you're riding - you'll remember to unclip, but will find you can't. Don't ask me how I know this.

Never had a cleat bolt come undone TBH, in fact they are usually a right pig to get undone IME.

If you do have a problem though and want to try a fixing liquid, I'd maybe suggest superglue, at least it will break away under low pressure when you need it to, maybe nail varnish does the same IDK, but I'd certainly not use thread lock TBH.

I agree, a dab of Lithium Grease shall prevent any bolts from seizing. Providing they are done up tightly enough to begin with you shouldn't have an issue with them coming undone. (You might want to check them every couple of months, however personally I haven't ever had a problem).
 

Matthames

Über Member
Location
East Sussex
And I'd suggest a drop of thread lock (or nail varnish if you don't have any thread lock) on the cleat bolts. It's not funny if the bolts come loose when you're riding - you'll remember to unclip, but will find you can't. Don't ask me how I know this.

Also it is a good idea if possible to get some spare cleat bolts so that if you do suffer the miss fortune of loosing a cleat bolt you don't end up getting stranded after suffering the ignominy of a moment in front of people, especially if the place that you have that moment is called Centre Parcs :whistle:
 
Remember your clipped in before you stop or your be letting the side down, plus all the above and a hex key to tighten said cleat bolts with.
 

Cold

Guest
I didn't change anything on mine but it is worth putting some kind of lube on the cleat bolts as I didn't and really struggled to get them off my shoes recently.
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
Yes, do those bolts up very effing tight indeed. Last month I had to rescue Gti Junior who was riding round and round a car park in distress because both cleats (which he fitted) had rotated and he couldn't unclip! I had to grab him and hold the bike while he undid the shoes and slipped out of them!
 

oldroadman

Veteran
Location
Ubique
When clipless came in, I applied the same technique to bolt fixing as to all others - get a spec sheet which shows the correct torque and stick to it. Alternatvely, nick some of the other halfs nail polish and dab on the thread. It will set well, and if it needs undoing, just tap a (strong) allen key witth a small hammer to crack the seal. Often tapping gently in the tightening direction does it. It sounds wrong, but works. Just unscrew afterwards.
The comment about "front balls" of your feet mystified me - where are the "rear balls"?
Essentially it's right, the ball of the foot should be above the pedal axle as an initial setting, then play around from there. It won't be more than a mm or two different either way to feel right.
Leave the tension loose at first so you can settle into a position, then slowly increase for best results and well protected knees!
Hope this all helps...:thumbsup:
 
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