Threaded headset replacement

[Teuchter]

There's a slight notchiness in the steering of my 89 Peugeot road bike so I think it's about time to replace the headset (old 1" threaded variety with caged ball bearings).

So... how hard a job should I expect this to be? I've replaced motorcycle wheel bearings and fork seals a few times in the past which press / hammer into place in a similar way so think I've got the mechanical ability to do this without breaking anything and I've checked out Sheldon's advice on the job here. Would it be worth investing in a couple of specific tools to help with this? Not forking out for Park Tools but there are relatively (or very) cheap cup removers and presses on eBay which could help keep everything straight.

Removing and refitting the fork crown race is more of a concern however.

Any advice welcome (apart from take it to a shop... I would really prefer to do this myself if possible).

 

[sidevalve]

With a bit of care I can't see you having any problems. The "press" is just a piece of threaded rod with big washers on, ok at the price but easy enough to make. The cup remover might be usefull but it's possible without it.

 

[compo]

I have done this job many times over the years on different bikes. You don't need a cup remover, especially if you are not re-using the cups. Just tap them out with a hammer and drift. Note I say tap and not go silly with a lump hammer. The one that is sometimes a bit tight is the bit on the fork crown. Again gentle tapping all around it to try and keep it squareish with a hammer and fairly sharp drift will move it. Once started you will possibly even be able to slide it up the steerer tube by hand. You can replace the cups by using a lump of wood to protect the cup and tapping them home with a hammer. Otherwise a lump of studding and a couple of large coach washers and nuts will do the job.

 

[Teuchter]

Thanks. I'll maybe leave the cup remover and see how I get on just drifting the cups out. The cheap press I linked to is indeed just a couple of large metal and plastic washers, some nuts and a long bolt but at the price, it's probably no more expensive than going to B&Q to source the parts myself and I think a better option than hammering them in and hoping they stay relatively straight.

 

[mrandmrspoves]

You're quite right, the cheap press tools are easier than trying to whack the headsets in with a hammer and not much to be saved by making your own unless you already have the bits to hand. You can make your own headset removal tool from a length of piping by hacksawing a cross into the end and bending spines outwards....but in my experience you can often get away with just replacing the bearings and 're-greasing. Certainly saves a lot of hassle if you can avoid a full headset replacement so just check if the races are pitted and if not, try bearings only first.

 

[Teuchter]

but in my experience you can often get away with just replacing the bearings and 're-greasing. Certainly saves a lot of hassle if you can avoid a full headset replacement so just check if the races are pitted and if not, try bearings only first.

I gave that a shot at the weekend, admittedly reusing the old caged bearings which seemed in ok condition. Sheldon suggests using loose bearings may solve the problem but I think I'd rather just do a proper job of it and replace the entire headset.

 

[tyred]

I'm not sure if you have an entry level Peugeot or one of the higher end models but in my experience, the cheaper headsets fitted to mass produced bikes are often poor quality even when new and an upgrade to a quality headset will transform the steering of the bike. No need to go mad, a Stronglight A9 won't break the bank and will be a huge improvement on whatever was fitted in the first place.

 

[mrandmrspoves]

I gave that a shot at the weekend, admittedly reusing the old caged bearings which seemed in ok condition. Sheldon suggests using loose bearings may solve the problem but I think I'd rather just do a proper job of it and replace the entire headset.

Well if you're up for it, why not? ( I would still just try replacing the bearings 1st as easier and cheaper and no harm done if it doesn't work)
As standard bearings are so cheap, I always work on the basis that if they feel worn they are worn - so I would always replace them.

 

[Teuchter]

I'm not sure if you have an entry level Peugeot or one of the higher end models but in my experience, the cheaper headsets fitted to mass produced bikes are often poor quality even when new and an upgrade to a quality headset will transform the steering of the bike. No need to go mad, a Stronglight A9 won't break the bank and will be a huge improvement on whatever was fitted in the first place.

Funnily enough I was looking at these on Spa Cycles website earlier and my next question was going to be asking for recommendations for a replacement headset.

 

[PpPete]

I've done a lot of these over time (always drifting out the cups with a length of curtain rod), but on just one occasion I couldn't shift the fork crown race.
LBS had a big mother of a tool that did it in heart beat though. Didn't charge me as I took just the fork (all nicely cleaned of grease).... I always buy something else when they do this kind of thing for me.

Stronglight A9 ? Go for the steel one. The ally version is made of cheese IMO.

 

[tyred]

It is true that some crown races give very little to hit/grip.

 

[fossyant]

Replaced the caged bearing Dura Ace 7400 headset on my best bike with a new Dura Ace 7410 headset (not cheap). Knocked the cups out with a cup tool - about £10, and the lower race was tapped out.

Fitting the new cups, I used some big lumps of wood and carefully tapped the cups down keeping them square. Heart in mouth job on an expensive frame. Worked fine, and as they are cartridge bearings, I won't need to replace the cups. I also have an additional 'spare' 7410 headset due to the first order being cocked up by the supplier, and then I spoke to SJS Cycles who sorted me out, then the original order arrived. Expensive that was.

 

[Teuchter]

Well I rebuilt it last night with loose bearings (adding half a dozen in top and bottom) and that seems to have cured the problem for now. No notchiness and the ride in this morning was much better. I still intend to fit a completely new headset but It's bought me some time (other projects I'm meant to be focussing on right now!).

Stronglight A9 ? Go for the steel one. The ally version is made of cheese IMO.

Looking at this headset, there appear to be two versions... alloy with sealed bearings and steel with caged ball bearings. Are you suggesting the latter is the better choice or would you go with something different altogether?

Replaced the caged bearing Dura Ace 7400 headset on my best bike with a new Dura Ace 7410 headset (not cheap).

The range of prices you CAN pay is (as with most things I suppose) amazing. This is my knockabout commuter bike so I'm definitely aiming for the lower end of the price range... that Dura Ace headset costs about 2/3 the vaue of the entire bike!

 

[PpPete]

Looking at this headset, there appear to be two versions... alloy with sealed bearings and steel with caged ball bearings. Are you suggesting the latter is the better choice or would you go with something different altogether?

Didn't realise there was a difference in the bearings between steel and aluminium versions TBH.
I certainly was unimpressed with apparent fragility of the only aluminium one I fitted....very easy to fubar the cups during installation. But having said that, that one hasn't given trouble since. But then I've had no problems with caged bearings on a lot of other bikes. The only one that really sucked was one that had a weird conical arrangement of caged roller bearings instead of traditional balls.

 

[lpretro1]

You wont damage the headset cups if you use a proper headset tool rather than trying to 'bodge' them. It also helps to install one cup at at time to ensure you don't get the cup off-centre