Through Hub Disassembly (Oval Concepts)

[MSF23]

Does anyone know how to easily remove this Through Hub and the associated Freehub Body please?

I have a standard Shimano Lock Ring tool (not a copy from another manufacturer); no issue removing the cassette, however the tool is not long enough (deep enough) to lock onto the disc brake rotor lock ring on the other side because the hub protrudes too much!





Watched various videos through You Tube. Not one appears to show my hub configuration. The hub has NO visible Allen Key socket anywhere. Flats only on the drive side, and the non-drive side does not pull off (bearing in mind the brake disc is still on the non-drive side).

I'm somewhat perplexed!

 

[Yellow Saddle]

What happens when you turn the bit that says loosen in the direction that the loosen arrow shows?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

For a start, remove the brake disc.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Get your 14mm allen key ready.

 

[I like Skol]

My Kona rear through hub just pulls apart. It requires a good tug though because there is an o ring between axle and endcap that resists disassembly.

 

[MSF23]

What happens when you turn the bit that says loosen in the direction that the loosen arrow shows?

The entire outside of the hub remaining in-situ rotates (the inside being the removable [removed] quick release axle).

 

[MSF23]

For a start, remove the brake disc.

That's part of the problem. My Shimano splined lock ring tool will fit the brake disc lock ring, but doesn't reach the brake disc lock ring because the hub on that side (opposite side to the one that states "LOOSEN" with the arrow) protrudes too much.

I don't want to damage this part of the hub, however does it pull off? There's nothing to grip! How do you pull off that round part that rotates?

 

[MSF23]

My Kona rear through hub just pulls apart. It requires a good tug though because there is an o ring between axle and endcap that resists disassembly.

How do you grip this without damaging it? I've tried that (yesterday). It wouldn't budge.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

That's part of the problem. My Shimano splined lock ring tool will fit the brake disc lock ring, but doesn't reach the brake disc lock ring because the hub on that side (opposite side to the one that states "LOOSEN" with the arrow) protrudes too much.

I don't want to damage this part of the hub, however does it pull off? There's nothing to grip! How do you pull off that round part that rotates?

You have the wrong tool. You get hollow ones.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

How do you grip this without damaging it? I've tried that (yesterday). It wouldn't budge.

You do the following. However, you have one chance.

You put a good longnose plier inside the hole, grip hard and pull. If you don't grip hard it will slip and leave a mark. If you are skilled, it comes out without any gouges. If not...

 

[MSF23]

You do the following. However, you have one chance.

You put a good longnose plier inside the hole, grip hard and pull. If you don't grip hard it will slip and leave a mark. If you are skilled, it comes out without any gouges. If not...

That's really helpful. Thank you.

With a background in engineering, I can't understand why this part is designed and manufactured in such a way! Why do that?
Just to be difficult?

 

[fossyant]

My rear end cap was was to get off, a pedal axel helped lever it out. Once the end cap is off you can get the hex key in and then a cone spanner on the drive side.

 

[MSF23]

I'm waiting for an additional lock-ring tool that I ordered in the hope I can disassemble the hub and check the freehub body out. It definitely appears to be the freehub body that's slowing the bike down which is more than disappointing to say the least. Shouldn't be like that at all, however these things are sent to test us!

We mustn't forget either that most cycles sold are mass produced items, and for all but a very few, will require significant tweaking of components simply to make things perform as they should do so. I know this to be true, having worked in the cycle retail industry many years ago (independent dealer). Sometimes we had total nightmares setting bikes for customers, and it wasn't always low end/cheap bikes that caused us grief!

I'll provide an update here when the tool arrives, and additional progress has been made, for the benefit of others.

In the meantime, it's getting light now, and my Fuji is calling me for a spin...

 

[MSF23]

Well, it's a while since I posted here. Been out and about cycling when I'm able to; last time yesterday.

Despite having the correct tool now to remove the brake disc (which I easily), there is still no way I can remove this (supposedly) pushed-on bearing cap. Been to two separate bike shops to ask; one yesterday afternoon, the other this afternoon. Both said "it just pulls off". Yeah, right. I can't get it off without the grip from a hydraulic puller! There is nothing to grip. The last bike shop said they have had difficulty with these type of through hubs, and also said they could do it but it may end up wrecking the entire hub.

Personally, find the design of this appalling. If a component is meant to be disassembled, there should be a straightforward means disassemble it! So, why the heck have the designers gone with this? Did they not try disassemble a prototype first? Obviously not.

Someone out there must have experienced the same problem with the same hub.

If I clamp the brake disc rotor side in a vice with protective jaws (clamping the "pull off cap" that fails to budge), turning the other side with the flats (left hand thread to loosen: cassette side) simply causes the entire axle to rotate.

I like to (and can) work on most things bike-related, but this one has stumped me entirely...

My final thought is to drill two holes in line with the existing holes on the inner part of the axle, right through this cap. That way a lever/screwdriver/Allen key could be used to hold the axle while the other side is undone. Not something I'm keen on doing.

 

[Nigelnightmare]

Did you manage to get it sorted?