Tools needed for ultegra hydraulic disc brakes

[fossyant]

As recommended above, Epic kits are great, and come with good instructions.

 

[Alex321]

Not really as bolt can still seize. Not chance of seizing with split pin.

True. I just meant it was belt-and-braces for stopping it falling out. As noted in my other post, I have had one seize on the rear, and it was a real pig to get out.

 

[Mr. Cow]

Thanks all, I went for one of the epic kits and some other bits

In reality you probably won't need them for a long time, unless something goes seriously wrong. I've had a hydraulic brakes on one bike which I bought secondhand which was about three years old when I got it and I've had it for another three and haven't had to touch them for pads or hydraulic problems.

You're probably right, but sod's law and all that..

 

[I like Skol]

I've got Ultegra hyd disc brakes on a bike bought mid 2018.

I'm a maint/repair freak, people generally come to me to fix their bikes because they know I don't mess about and my bikes work reliably.

Other than pad changes I haven't touched these brakes, they just work. Please leave well alone because you will probably f'em up! they don't need any attention unless they stop working.

 

[ColinJ]

Rather than starting another thread on the subject...

I am about to bleed the rear brake on my MTB. I bought a cheap kit which looks like it will do the job. I have also watched a few videos demonstrating the technique, so I think that I should be okay.

Just one question... The instructions with the kit suggest draining all the old oil and refilling with new. Is that really necessary? I will watch the videos again, but I think that they just got the air out of the system by topping up with new fluid until the bubbles stopped coming through. (It's mineral oil. Don't know if that makes any difference to the replace vs top-up question...?)

 

[richardfm]

Rather than starting another thread on the subject...

I am about to bleed the rear brake on my MTB. I bought a cheap kit which looks like it will do the job. I have also watched a few videos demonstrating the technique, so I think that I should be okay.

Just one question... The instructions with the kit suggest draining all the old oil and refilling with new. Is that really necessary? I will watch the videos again, but I think that they just got the air out of the system by topping up with new fluid until the bubbles stopped coming through. (It's mineral oil. Don't know if that makes any difference to the replace vs top-up question...?)

Force some new fluid in and see what colour comes out. If the fluid is very old it could be black. Keep going with new fluid until the stuff coming out looks like what is going in

 

[ColinJ]

Force some new fluid in and see what colour comes out. If the fluid is very old it could be black. Keep going with new fluid until the stuff coming out looks like what is going in

Good thinking - that makes sense!

Thinking about it - that is what they said in one of the videos that I watched last week. They had some dirty fluid coming through and kept going until it was all pink. I had better watch the videos again to refresh my memory...

 

[Supersuperleeds]

I’m bloody useless at fettling, but I managed to bleed the brakes on my hybrid using the kit mentioned up thread and following videos on YouTube.

 

[youngoldbloke]

The disc brake pistons move closer together as the pads wear and you may find the gap is too small for a new pad. You can use all sorts of tools to push the pistons apart but the press makes the job easy.

 

[Elybazza61]

You can most of the time get away with just this when bleeding and changing pads;

https://www.bike24.com/p2400126.html

Can be a lot easier than faffing with syringes and you can bleed with the pads out and pistons pushed in with one of these in place of the pads;

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/shimano-deore-brm575-bleeding-spacer-y8fz05000/

Then use one like this (there are different shaped ones for different calipers) with pads in to fine tune;

https://www.biketart.com/products/shimano-spares-br-rs505-pad-spacer?variant=40809770942643

To centre the calliper once bled just undo the bolts, press lever and then do up the bolts (with the spacer above)95% of the time this centres the pads(unless you have a sticky piston),then pop wheels back in.

 

[Deleted member 26715]

In reality you probably won't need them for a long time, unless something goes seriously wrong. I've had a hydraulic brakes on one bike which I bought secondhand which was about three years old when I got it and I've had it for another three and haven't had to touch them for pads or hydraulic problems.

Just checked & I've done 6,400 miles on my MTB in which times I've never had to touch the brakes, it's still on the original pads.