Tools needed for ultegra hydraulic disc brakes

[Mr. Cow]

Hi All,
My new bike come with ultegra hydralic disc brakes (non Di2 levers). All my old bikes were rim brakes so this is new stuff for me to learn. I like to do most of my own fettling and leave the big jobs to the LBS. But in preparation for when I get the inevitable brake squeal/binding/excess lever travel, what tools and spares can I add to the ol' took kit to keep them running in tip top shape and not get caught short? It looks like I'm going to need stuff like bleed kits/syringes, rubbing alcohol, spare pads, fluids etc.
Also, is the fluid safe if it gets on your hands, or worse still the paint

THanks !

 

[13 rider]

The main thing you will need is some sort of alcohol based cleaner to clean any contamination of the pads and rotors all other stuff is basic tools . If you going down your own brake bleeding you will need a kit available on eBay make sure you get the little adapter to fit the funnel to the sti lever . For what it's worth I had hydraulic drakes for 3.5 years and I've never needed to bleed them only maintenance needed other than cleaning has been pad swaps
Edit the brake fluid is safe just wipe up on spills and DO NOT get any on the rotor or pads

 

[Ming the Merciless]

The brake fluid for Shimano is mineral oil

 

[13 rider]

One tip the bolt that secures the pads is made of cheese . Every so often I do it when I clean my bike I just loosen and retighten it so it doesn't seize . Mine did messy getting the bolt out

 

[Juan Kog]

Thanks for asking this . I’m in the same position, new bike with hydraulic disc’s and I prefer to do my own fettling .So will follow this thread with interest.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

One tip the bolt that secures the pads is made of cheese . Every so often I do it when I clean my bike I just loosen and retighten it so it doesn't seize . Mine did messy getting the bolt out

I prefer using split pins to retain pads after a bolt dropped out with one pad mid ride.

 

[Alex321]

You really aren't going to need much you haven't already got if you are used t doing your own fettling.

You may need to bleed them occasionally (every year or two maybe), and that is easier with a bleed kit, but not impossible without. You don't need to keep spare pads any more than you do with rim brakes - it isn't hard to check wear and see they are getting close to needing replacement.
And otherwise, they are pretty well maintenance free.

 

[Alex321]

I prefer using split pins to retain pads after a bolt dropped out with one pad mid ride.

The Shimano 105 (R7020) are belt and braces that way, and I suspect Ultegra will be similar. A threaded bolt, but also a spring pin to prevent the bolt coming out.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

As for bleed kits these guys do a decent selection. Once you have the bleed kit, it’s a case of mineral oil (some comes in bleed kit) when it runs out. Generally you will get through 50mL of fluid per brake if bleeding brand new brakes with no current fluid in them. Any fluid left in syringe you can just pour back into mineral fluid bottle.

https://epicbleedsolutions.com/collections/bleed-kits

I’ve got mineral oil that’s 14 years old now and it’s still good. Originally bought for mtn bike. I’ll generally bleed brakes once a year or couple of years.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Here’s what a bleed kit looks like (minus mineral oil), spanner is 7/8mm with 7mm for calliper bleed port.

 

[Jenkins]

The Shimano 105 (R7020) are belt and braces that way, and I suspect Ultegra will be similar. A threaded bolt, but also a spring pin to prevent the bolt coming out.

Which is all very well until the bolt seizes in place (OK, my fault for not copperslipping it when I replaced the pads)

 

[Alex321]

Which is all very well until the bolt seizes in place (OK, my fault for not copperslipping it when I replaced the pads)

Yeah, the first time I had to replace the rear pads it was a pig to get it undone. The front doesn't suffer from the same amount of road gunk being thrown at it, and so hadn't seized the same way.

 

[Cycleops]

In reality you probably won't need them for a long time, unless something goes seriously wrong. I've had a hydraulic brakes on one bike which I bought secondhand which was about three years old when I got it and I've had it for another three and haven't had to touch them for pads or hydraulic problems.

 

[Alex321]

In reality you probably won't need them for a long time, unless something goes seriously wrong. I've had a hydraulic brakes on one bike which I bought secondhand which was about three years old when I got it and I've had it for another three and haven't had to touch them for pads or hydraulic problems.

My experience is that pads tend to last between 1200 and 2000 miles, depending on weather and the difference between front/rear (rear wear faster, presumably again because of more road gunk getting between pads & rotors). And of course, it will be affected by how much braking you tend to do.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

The Shimano 105 (R7020) are belt and braces that way, and I suspect Ultegra will be similar. A threaded bolt, but also a spring pin to prevent the bolt coming out.

Not really as bolt can still seize. Not chance of seizing with split pin.