Tour De West Coast of Scotland

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the_c00ler_king

New Member
Location
Aberdeen


So Iain and I decided that in order to beat the credit crunch and to stay fit at the same time we were going to have an active holiday this summer in the wilds of the West coast of Scotland.


Introductions:

Iain is from Cupar and likes swimming, surfing, looking good and watching gash American dramas.

Bill is from Birmingham and likes pies, walking, looking bad (more like "bad" in a hobo rubbish way rather than "bad" in a Michael Jackson good way) and watching good American dramas.

So those are the introductions done. Here was the plan:

Plan:

We would begin in Ardrossan and work our way up the West coast via the highlands and various islands. Utilising a hop-on hop-off ferry ticket from Caledonian MacBrayne we hoped to do around about 350 miles in just over 10 relaxed days of riding. We planned to camp along the way, with the only real target of reaching Ullapool by the 11th August so that Iain could make a flight the next day. I had planned a rough route but I we ended up keeping a flexible outlook on our plans if and when the wind is gusting as there is nothing more depressing than cycling into a headwind.

Initially I had thought that this was a slightly unrealistic target for me, but that was before I realised that a young lad of around 7 years old, who lived with cystic fibrosis cycled the John O Groats – Lands End trail in 3 weeks. I had no excuse now.

My father did exactly the same trip a while back in reverse as he started off in the North so I suppose I am falling into the emotional trap of following in his tire treads. Whatever the case, I am sure that it is going to be an amazing experience.

Islands we hope to reach: Islay, Mull, Skye, Harris and Lewis.


Training: not much.


Kit:

Bill – Specialized Sirrus (eventually after ordering from Rutland Cycles that was the only place who stocked it. Thanks to John Ponting on the website to point me in the right direction.). I was using a 40 litre triple pannier set and a Deuter day sack.

Iain – Refurbished racing bike with a 15 litre pannier set and a large rucksack.


Here is what happened:


Day 1: Glasgow to Port Ellon (Islay).

Generally nice weather, the roads were fast on Arran and the people really friendly. This was our first day of riding and two things were apparent.

1. Iain was pretty fast at cycling. We decided that from here onwards we would decide upon a place to meet up for lunch and then I would meet him there a wee while later.

2. My estimation of 9 mph was a bit out. I think over the trip I would have averaged 12mph while Iain was closer to 18mph.

We camped on Islay on a really nice but exposed campsite.

Day 2: Explore Islay.

Really windy today. We went to Ardbeg to go for a tour, which was fascinating, and you get a couple of drams as well. I stencilled the number on a whisky cask which will be stored for at least 10 years. I am going to get that number tattooed on my arm so I never forget!

We cycled with the wind for 10 miles in about 25 minutes, which was fecking fast. However, coming back was a mission and I think I averaged 4mph into the gusts!

Islay was quite bleak, but had a remote feel for an island relatively close to the mainland.

Day 3: Port Ellon (Islay) to Oban.

This was our longest days cycle, which was about 65miles. It also had our hardest and highest ascent. We ended up crashing in a Hostel in Oban and having fish and chips with a beer overlooking the bay that was beautiful. It had been raining earlier on but was a lovely evening.



Day 4: Oban to Tobermory (Mull).

This was our easiest days cycle as the roads were fast, the weather was awesome and we only had a short distance to cover. We found out what the story was in Tobermory as well - There is a SPAR outlet in a church on the main street!



Day 5: Tobermory (Mull) to near Arasiag.

This was my hardest days cycle. We had prepared to do only 35 miles to the campsite and we got there easily after the second best descent on our trip. Although the setting of the campsite was amazing, the facilities were pretty dire so we headed up the road on our way to Mallaig. The problem was that this was unexpected and I had not prepared mentally for this extra mileage and so I had reached the 3/4 point quite despondent after two large climbs. Iain pushed me on and we made the town in good speed. All the campsites were fully booked so in the end we camped on a beach in one of the most beautiful serene locations that you could imagine. There were about 10 other families there as well, and with the warm weather in the eveing and a fire to kill the midges all my pains went away.



Day 6: Near Arasiag to Isle of Raasay (Skye).This was a classy day. We covered more ground than expected and the roads were so fast. The weather was bright and sunny with no wind. We also had our longest ascent - which I ripped it up and the best descent over about 3 miles in which I was taking over cars on the hill! We ended up camping on the Isle of Raasay, just off Skye. This was another highlight with an amazing setting watching the sun go down over a mirror flat bay. We also saw dolphins on the crossing between Mallaig and Armadale!


Day 7: Isle of Raasay (Skye) to Tarbet (Harris).
Another classy day where we covered more ground than expected and the roads were so fast. The weather was in contrast to the day before with ripping rain but that just seemed to make us more determined. We stopped in Portree for a pie and then headed to Uig in an amazing time. I think we did 15 miles in less than 50 minutes! Quality downhill into town where Iain reached 47mph before deciding to brake! We caught the ferry to Tarbet, which was a bit run down and ended up crashing in a cell like hostel after food and a pint.

Day 8: Tarbet (Harris) to Aberdeen.This day was supposed to be split into two, but because we were pretty fast (40 miles in under 3 hours) we managed to get to Stornoway in time to catch the ferry to Ullapool. This was a Sunday sailing so all the shops in Stornoway were closed and we were not really feeling it so just decided to head home. We got a bike bus from Ullapool to Inverness, and then the last train to Aberdeen arriving just after 11pm.



Review:

I really enjoyed myself over the 8 days. I was initially a bit nervous about the undertaking – but in the end found myself more than capable. For my next tour I would definitely invest in some padded cycle shorts.

It gave me a newfound taste of adventure, so next year I think we are going to tackle Land End to John O Groats.


Bill.
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
No padding? How's your bum feeling? Very well done anyway.

And at least it stayed windy so you weren't too bothered by midges. I have given up on Scottish camping trips and gone home thanks to these little swines.
 
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the_c00ler_king

New Member
Location
Aberdeen
These photos are presented in reverse order:

1 - Me working out the route of the next day over a pint on the Isle of Raasay.

2 - Iain posing on the Isle of Raasay with Skye behind.

3 - Our pitch on a beach near Arasaig.

4 - Tobermory.

5 - View up the hill of Bowmore with the fantastic "Round Church" in the background.
 
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the_c00ler_king

New Member
Location
Aberdeen
6 - Standard "hand holding something pose".

7 - Ardbeg distillery on Islay.

8 - Kildaton Celtic Cross on Islay.

9 - View of pitch with bikes beside tent on Islay.

10 - Home-made "cairn" with the sun going down on the Isle of Raasay.
 
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the_c00ler_king

New Member
Location
Aberdeen
11 - View of Arran from ferry.

12 - "Bumblebee" and "Alyssia" on the train to Ardrossan.

Rigid,

My ass was only sore on one day, and that was the one day that I wasn't really prepared for mentally. Apart from that I think I got used to it. Also I did end up getting eaten alive by midges on both legs.
 

Coco

Well-Known Member
Location
Glasgow
Very nice.

Avon Skin So Soft is the answer to midges. You can get it in Tiso etc. Beware though, you'll end up smelling like a tarts hanky.


cheers
 
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