Touring bike to Commute

[Magna]

hello

I bought a Dawes SuperGalaxy for touring but loved it so much I commuted daily on it. After 18months and approximately 50miles/week I have had to replace the entire chain set at a cost of £150.

Has anyone experienced similar wear? Should I be commuting on such an expensive bike?

 

[iacula]

I use an expensive bike for commuting too; 100 miles a week. I don't understand this thing of keeping a bike for best, if you spend a lot of time using it perhaps it should be good.
No idea whether chain should have lasted longer, if you kept it well oiled that's how long it lasts I guess. Either way cheaper than a car by far.....

 

[chris667]

You would save more money if you learned to fix your bike, and you'd be more confident for touring. The only reason I'd say not to use your expensive bike is if you think it'll get pinched. Plus, look at how much cheaper it's worked out than driving!

 

[andym]

It's worth investing in a Park Tool Chainchecker - a worn chain will accelerate the wear on the cassette and chainrings so it's better to change the chain before it reaches that point. Oh and obviously take the time to oil the chain regularly. If you can do, make more use of the inner and middle ring - they are relatively cheap to replace.

That said, I think there is a bit of a myth (or at least in my opinion it's a myth) that if you have to replace one element of the transmission you have to replace all of the others. I can see the logic for saying that if you're going to change the chainrings and/or cassette then it doesn't make sense not to change the chain at the same time - but if the chainrings and cassette are still in good condition then in my view there's no need to change them simply because you're changing the chain.

Oh and if you really want a high mileage resilient transmission, and you live somewhere relatively flat, then it's worth taking a look at a singlespeed or fixed gear bike with a 1/8" chain. (Or maybe a hubgear - but go for one of the simpler more robust ones).

 

[Yellow7]

ermm!! Changing derailleur’s, chains & chainrings....I know how you feel, especially this time of year with grit & muck thrown in for extra excitement.

I bought the 8 speed Sturmey Archer hub ~6 weeks back, certainly a god-send as far as maintenance, & minimum chain-wear as it’s runs in-line (as a chain should do!) The spread of gears doesn’t match the Rholoff hub but for commuting to work & around MK it’s the ticket. I used a Surly 36 tooth steel chainring, which gives aproximate same range as a 44 tooth with an 11 – 32 cassette (7 speed)

Worth looking at maybe?

 

[jay clock]

you said chainset - that would suggest the crankset and chainrings? Unless there is some massive fault, they should last decades and the rings are easily replaceable. By chainset do you mean something else?

Personally I would replace the chain (I use Wipperman with a removable link) every 1000 miles - the rear cassette should then last a lot longer. If you tend to use one front chainring more than another that might need changing every few thousand miles

 

[andym]

you said chainset - that would suggest the crankset and chainrings? Unless there is some massive fault, they should last decades and the rings are easily replaceable. By chainset do you mean something else?

Unfortunately it's often (OK, at least with Shimano) cheaper to buy a new chainset rather than buy the rings individually. In any event, it sounds to me like the LBS weren't too concerned about keeping the costs down.

 

[amaferanga]

Probably only really needed a new chain....

 

[Arch]

It works out at nearly 4000 miles, so some wear and tear must be expected....

And having just rebuilt my old Galaxy on a budget, I'm amazed at the enormous variety in prices for bits. I suppose if you really must save every gramme, it's worth it, but I can't believe a 'hundreds of pounds' chainset with last 10 ties as long as the 'tens of pounds' one I fitted....

Good maintenance is the key, as others have said. One day I'll get round to doing some...

 

[geocycle]

A new chain and probably cassette after 4000 miles sounds about right to me. Chain rings derailleurs etc should last much longer IME. £150 sounds very excessive unless you really need the whole lot. I'd change the chain first and then see how it beds down before changing any other parts but the cassette will almost certainly be worn.

I also only have one bike which is used for everything partly due to storage issues but also because I wanted to get my money's worth from it (guess which county I'm from!) so I don't think you are wrong in commuting on your Dawes. I currently run a hub geared bike on which I've had two chains after 10,000 miles and will soon replace the rear sprocket and cables after 12,000 , oh and I change the oil annually. I don't pretend this low maintenance cost has yet offset the initial outlay but it does save my time, especially in winter when I am leaving and returning in darkness.

 

[Brains]

I also use an expensive touring bike for commuting, and a similar milage to you.

I go through about two chains a year and replace the rear cassette about once every 18 months and maybe a bit longer on the front rings.

So I'd say your replacement was bang on time.

As others have said, I but the bits on line or in the LBS and do the replacement myself, the investment in the tools and the bike stand was probably paid off in two replacements and it also means you learn how to do the job yourself as it may need to be done whilst you are on tour

Even if you are not a spanner monkey, get yourself a chain measuring tool, it will tell you when you need to change the chain which will then double the life of your rear cassette and front rings

 

[Magna]

Thanks for all of the advice. Lots to think about for the new year.

 

[willem]

Cassettes and chains are easy to replace yourself. Buy Wippermann Connex for a chain. They are very good and easy to open and close. Crankset is a different story, and potentially much more expensive. Changing a crankset is rather harder if you have not done it before. Cheap cranksets do indeed not last very long, and do not allow you to change an individual chainring. So next time, buy something like a Sugino XD where you can change the rings individually, and that uses a traditional square taper bottom bracket. Shimano rings are often not very good. Specialites TA are much better, but not cheap. If you want to keep costs down, use quality steel middle and small rings (th ebiog one is heavy but does noe get much wear, soi here alluminium is preferable).
Willem

 

[TheDoctor]

Sounds like they saw you coming IMHO.
Chainrings cost from £10-20 each, cassettes about £20 and a tenner or so for a chain. Or (as others have said) a cheapo chainset, which won't have replaceable rings, but will only cost about £25. Cheaper because it's heavier.

 

[mercurykev]

In my experience it's quite common for bike shops to suggest that a full chainset, chain and cassette need changing when all that is needed is a chain and cassette. It's like when they suggest a new rear derailleur is needed when all that's worn is a jockey wheel.