Touring bikes at the Cycle show today

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beatts

Active Member
Location
Leeds
Hi,

I was at the NEC Cycle show today with the specific task of hunting down my 40th birthday present, namely a good tourer / Adventure bike.

Ridgeback weren't there unfortunately as I quite fancied a gander at their Panorama but I did get to see the Dawes Galaxy on their stand, which I must say, really isn't a good looking bike imo.

Looking at a couple of other tourers such as Condor and Pearson I have decided I am not big on their looks, even though I know I will be shot down in flames due to the strength of the bike being its 'other' qualities.

My question therefore is this, can you purchase a Hardtail mountain bike that will come with the required fastening points for mudguards and a rear rack? If it was a 29er it would be even more of a bonus I suppose.


thanks
 
OP
OP
B

beatts

Active Member
Location
Leeds
I am not really bothered about the bars, but I suppose drops do offer more hand positions.

I have thought about CX bikes and quite fancied a Bianchi that I saw today :tongue:
 

doog

....
I am not really bothered about the bars, but I suppose drops do offer more hand positions.

I have thought about CX bikes and quite fancied a Bianchi that I saw today :tongue:

You like a CX
wave.gif


Look at my touring biiiiitch . Will upgrade the wheels next year and stick with it. Would love a LHT but funding doesnt allow at the moment.


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MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
Depending on your price bracket I'd look at Decathlon/Edinburgh Cycles as the cheaper end of the scale, Surly LHT or Ridgeback Panorama at the upper mid point or I'd go custom if I was spending more. Treat it like a checklist, so make a note of:-

what you want to spend
preferences on frame materials
preferences on types of handlebar
what frame fittings it should have
disc brakes or not
how much clearance you want for tyres
and any other details that matter to you, then see what OTP options come closest

I have had a Surly Crosscheck followed by a Salsa Vaya both of which fall into that sort of 'adventure' category that seems to be getting used instead of tourer at times now. 700c wheels, clearance for up to about a 700x44 tyre, mudguard and rack fittings and geometry somewhere between road and touring. The Xcheck was a great frame but didn't take disc brakes and so I moved to the Vaya, which I've since replaced with a custom Ti frame, but again with discs. I kept the big clearance ability though and initially had setup with drop bars and STI shifters, I've since moved to an alternate style flat bar. I also have a Ti 29er frame, from the same builder, and again with rack and guard mounts, just awaiting the Rohloff to complete the build.

If you're not set on drop bars then there are quite a few other options around now, Europe and Germany in particular tend to have a bigger range in this respect. Thorn now offer the Mercury which falls into the same sort of category as well, available with flat or drop bars. If you went custom it's perfectly possible to size the top tube so that you could run drop or flat bars. Particularly if you use bar ends with the flat bars or any of the alternate flat bars that extend forward of the clamp area like the hoods position of drop bars does. Getting a fit for drop bars based around a 90mm stem would allow you to easily add 30-40mm via a longer stem if need be.

It depends on what sort of riding you want to prioritise and how versatile you want the bike to be. Both of my bikes have the same Mavic TN719 29er disc rims, which are rated from 700x25 up to 700x60 tyres, personally I don't have smaller than 700x32. The roadier bike would be good for commuting, lightish touring on roads and stripped down for faster weekend rides. The 29er has a temporary wheelset on at present and has the rigid On-One carbon forks, I've ridden it with 700x56 knobblies and 700x40 slicks. I have to say it's pretty darn nippy with the 700x40s on it, its intended use is for offroad or mixed surface but it's nice to know it can do other duties as well. It would make a great tourer if you wanted to do serious 'any surface' type touring, like one of these across America offroad things. The 29er could also be setup with suspension forks if I ever feel the need.

I know things keep changing but my general impression has been:-

classical tourer - canti brakes, clearance up to about 700x32, drop bars, fully rigid
adventure tourer - a mix of canti/v/disc brakes, clearances up to about 700x44, drop or flat bars, fully rigid
offroad tourer - disc brakes, clearances up to about a 2.2" tyre, generally flat/sweep bars, front suspension an option at least, 29ers becoming more prevalent than 26"
 

mcshroom

Bionic Subsonic
I'm not sure i get many more positions on my butterfly bars than I do on my drops really, but being able to use flat bar shifters/brakes does mean there's a lot more (and cheaper) options for the bike.
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
I'm not sure i get many more positions on my butterfly bars than I do on my drops really, but being able to use flat bar shifters/brakes does mean there's a lot more (and cheaper) options for the bike.

I'd agree, I just find them all slightly different in what they offer:-

drop bars - they should offer the most options, especially if you have cross top brake levers and STIs as well. That gives you 3 hand positions with access to braking and two with access to gear changes. In reality I only really used the hoods, corners and flats, the drops saw some action on downhills but I didn't like them for extended use, even into the wind. I tried them higher up but found this left the hoods less than optimal, so it was just a case of a tradeoff.

butterfly bars - I really liked the side position on these but never managed to get controls accessible from there in a manner I was happy with. This left the bars with only one position from which braking and gears were accessible, and that position was my least favourite.

big sweep risers - have tried a few but found the On-One Mary bars to be the best of the bunch and, as they sweep forward then back, they don't mess up reach considerations. They suit me anglewise, I can do a fair distance on them with no discomfort and find they have two useable hand positions from which I can still brake.

Alternate bars - my current favourites, hopefully my final favourites!!!, are the Jones H-Bars Loop version. There are 9 distinct hand positions which is a couple more than drop bars or 5 more if you aren't using the drops themselves. 5 of these have access to the brakes and 3 or 4 have access to the gears on my setup. Again, like the Mary Bars, these sweep forward first so you don't get the negative reach impact you would with a Northroad style. In fact a similar offering can be created by using a Mary Bar and some stubby inboard bar ends, but it's a bit ugly. By having them angled down towards you I find they give a similar main ride position to a set of Dirt Drop Bars(off road flared drop bars) which are meant to be run high up. But with the Dirt Drops this makes the flats/corners/hoods less useful though.
 

mcshroom

Bionic Subsonic
Do you find the Mary bars leave you feeling very sat up when riding? I've got some big sweep risers (loop forward and up, then back, about 30[sup]o [/sup]lay back) and I felt they made the bike feel very 'sit up and beg', which I didn't get on with. I might give them another go though.
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
Do you find the Mary bars leave you feeling very sat up when riding? I've got some big sweep risers (loop forward and up, then back, about 30[sup]o [/sup]lay back) and I felt they made the bike feel very 'sit up and beg', which I didn't get on with. I might give them another go though.

I lowered the stem slightly for the Marys, but still had a touch of what you describe, so was contemplating moving it back but running them flipped. They have 37mm of rise/drop so it's quite a bit to accomodate. But then I decided on the H-Bars which have only 13mm of rise/drop so it became a moot point. I do actually run these flipped, so dropping rather than rising, as I find that makes the 'flats' position better suited for me. I also ran my butterfly bars flipped as I found this improved the angles at the sides and corners.

The height is important but so is the angle, I start with the end of the bars, whether Mary or H-Bar, pointing down at the rear hub and then tweak from there. There are lots of pics showing hand positions and comparisons across Mary/H/Drop bars on my flikr account here:-

http://www.flickr.com/photos/37729119@N08/

You can see where I've messed about with some barends inboard on the Marys and how that compares to the more natural forward continuation of the H-Bars. With the latter I've got the setup almost right now and have prioritised the forward positions, or the equivalents of the hoods and corners. Plus the bonus of the position immediately behind the crossbar, so in my pics that would be Jones Loop H-Bar 3, 4, 5 and 6. All 4 of these give access to brakes and gears, you can see the gear shifters in pics 18-21, pic 20 gives a fair idea of the downward angle of the bars as well. I find the full hoods position to be just like the hoods on drops but angled inwards giving me, and more importantly my left elbow, an angle I'm comfier with for longer.

This means that as I move forward on the bars my hands come closer together and higher and vice versa. The additional dith and lower height of the rearward part go a long way to offsetting a feeling of being in a sit up and beg position. There's actually nothing to stop these bars being run with as much saddle to bar drop as you would for drop bars, or more, as you're not also trying to reach a lower 'drop' position. By my reckoning the lower I ran them then the less I'd want them angled towards me and vice versa, and I'd guess the same would be true for Mary Bars.
 

jackthelad

Well-Known Member
Doog after looking at the pic of your bike loaded I guess it is a tricross.I am wondering where did you get the bracket for the pump,also how is the clearance with the lower water bottle

jackthelad
 

doog

....
Doog after looking at the pic of your bike loaded I guess it is a tricross.I am wondering where did you get the bracket for the pump,also how is the clearance with the lower water bottle

jackthelad

the pump is a Topeak mountain morph and the bracket came with the pump (secured with zip ties). Clearance on the lower bottle was fine even with the sks mud guards.
 
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