Tourney v Altus

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roubaixtuesday

self serving virtue signaller
That was the water in your shoe when you limped back on one leg.

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raleighnut

Legendary Member
That's CLUuuuunnnnnngggggggg... not "CLUNK".
Energy of vibration (=sound) is absorbed by springs and at joints that can move relative to eachother alike those in derailer and shifter.
A short "clunk", here marked as occasional, points more to something that lagged something else, then catched up in a short time, with the occasional cause of that lagging being the question - remember the mentioned "or it clonks after the change is made".
Abit like Al Bundy eyeing another woman aWHILE then Peg "AAAaall!" - you obviously never watched. :

Nah I would say the LOUD clunk was the chain hitting the sprocket, like I say the change is very positive but lacks the take up ramps etc that make Shimano drivetrains change with an hardly audible 'snick'
Good job you can hear it really as it is a semi 'corncob' rear cassette (11, 12, 13, 14. 15, 16, 17. 19, 21, 23)
 

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
Nah I would say the LOUD clunk was the chain hitting the sprocket, like I say the change is very positive but lacks the take up ramps etc that make Shimano drivetrains change with an hardly audible 'snick'
Good job you can hear it really as it is a semi 'corncob' rear cassette (11, 12, 13, 14. 15, 16, 17. 19, 21, 23)
I didn't give any projectile names, just that a clunk usually is something whatever that lagged something else then catched up in one time. The loudness is a function of mass and speed of what catched up. Since the chain has the by far largest inertia of the drivetrain and its race-cheating parts, it's likely that first something, that somehow started to lag to its gear change command.
Abit like Corporal Blutch, Chesterfield often has to repeat in order to get 'm moving. ;)
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Since the chain has the by far largest inertia of the drivetrain and its race-cheating parts

No idea what you mean by a "race-cheating" part [of a drivetrain], however.
A chain weighing <300g will surely not have the largest inertia as if the bike is rolling along at (say) 25kph (or whatever speed actually) the chainset will have larger inertia as its mass is two or three times that.
A "clunk" sound is usually something that lagged a while, to then catch up in a moment.
The OP clearly said it was a clonk: don't know where you got clunk from.
That's clink (hit sound on massive object) not clunk (on hollow object).
Which is the "hollow object" you suggest is causing the "clunk" in this thread's Miami Vice scenario : the tooth of a sprocket?
 
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silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
No idea what you mean by a "race-cheating" part [of a drivetrain], however.
A chain weighing <300g will surely not have the largest inertia as if the bike is rolling along at (say) 25kph (or whatever speed actually) the chainset will have larger inertia as its mass is two or three times that.
The OP clearly said it was a clonk: don't know where you got clunk from.
Which is the "hollow object" you suggest is causing the "clunk" in this thread's Miami Vice scenario : the tooth of a sprocket?
Since that PickPeck is your Interest I serve you answer, not relevant to discuss here: all racers having 1 gear (singlespeed), then some start to cheat with 3 gears, until all have 3 and the cheat ceases to work, then some 7, until all 7, and so on, those parts I referred.

The masses of parts of chainset are all fixed into position, their distances to the center of rotation stay, unlike a chain that goes wherever it is allowed to, that is, deviate from the intended route for a variety of reasons, and thus is a candidate cause for a clunk or clonk, why do you bother TO ME the difference while in your OWN post:
These two RDs are interchangeable (as indeed is @Drago's Alivio, which is the best in that bracket) and can be used with all shifters (and speed) up to road 10sp (except ST-4700s) but NB not MTB 10sp.
Your clunking and stuff is maladjustment.
Recommend Relja's article to enhance knowledge.
Rear-derailleur-compatibility
6 to 10 speed
"Rear shift ratio is 1.7, that is for 1 mm of cable pull/release, RD is moved left/right by 1.7 mm. Any 6 to 9 speed RD will work perfectly with either 6, 7, 8 or 9 speed shifter, regardless whether it’s a MTB, or road shifter, or RD. They are also compatible with Shimano 10 speed road shifters, except the Tiagra 4700 series."
@raleighnut might delete his rushed (3 minutes!) comment.
... NOT?
Because your G.I. Number 1 is to discuss, with the rest lagging at a Safe Social 150 cm Distance?

A chain is not a series of steel balls, it's a series of hollow structures:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roller_chain
A picture to help you Get It:


500px-Kettenvergleich.jpg


Below is the chain you have on your bicycle (above is mine).

You started talking about Miami Vice but if I were you, I'd hide from Castillo.
 
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