Triple to Double Conversion and Chainline Adjustment

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mvnchi

New Member
First and foremost hello!

This topic probably has been seen and talked over and over. At least that's what it appeared to me when searching.
Sadly i couldn't really find any answer to my questions really from reading the dialogues.

SO.. on my old Gazelle V3.0 Roadbike i got a SRAM Elita Triple 50/39/30T 10-speed currently with a 12-28 casette and was planning to convert it to a double because unless i would approach really steep and especially longs climbs i would almost never use the granny gear.
My idea was to turn it into a 50/38T with a 12-30 casette which would give me a transmission ratio low enough to still be able to climb most hills here. Also the gear steps would fit me better.

Using a online gear calculator i was looking at the following:
  • Green Numbers are suggesting no chain skew/rub, yellow numbers are duplicates and red numbers are forbidden sprockets.
  • With the 50/38 12-30 i would (theoretically) get almost down to the same transmission ratio of my 30T granny gear.
  • They are calculating with a wheel circumference of 211cm
1756067832223.png

But since i was planning on keeping the triple crankset the chainline would remain unchanged.
Meaning that the 38/30 Gear for example would be "forbidden" unfortunately.
1756068618386.png


Another idea was to do it the other way around. A 50/36.
So dropping the outside 50T and getting a 50T as inside/middle chainring and replacing the granny 30T gear for a bigger 36T. Then in theory i would get "lower" ratios and down to the largest cog.
But in return i would sacrifice the 50/12 which i don't really want to as i tend to spin out quite often going downhill already.

So sticking to the initial idea of going with a 50/38 12-30 and the triple crankset - is there anyway to still be able to use the 38/30 and get the chainline somewhere so it is like the mid table?
Would i need smaller bottom brackets? Is it anyways always going to case chain skew/rub due to cross chaining? Or am i completely wrong here?

Anyone willing to sacrifice some time for my nonsense.. thanks in advance!
 
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mvnchi

mvnchi

New Member
Additionally a picture of the crank

1000005381.png
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
.My idea was to turn it into a 50/38T with a 12-30 cassette which would give me a transmission ratio low enough to still be able to climb most hills here. Also the gear steps would fit me better.. . idea of going with a 50/38 12-30 and the triple crankset - is there anyway to still be able to use the 38/30 and get the chainline somewhere so it is like the mid table?
Just do it. Going middle to large sprocket is fine. Very little power is lost cross-chaining (science available). And you have trim on the FD cable/shifter to avoid any cage plate rub.
The exclusion of largest and smallest sprockets in whatever app your using depends on the setting of the limit of chain angle eg 2.5%.
Have a look at this.
https://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR...24,27,30&UF=2150&TF=90&SL=2.4&UN=KMH&DV=teeth
But ask yourself: isn't this fiddling for the sake of it? If you think having the 30t inner gives you too short a gear for your needs, get a 11-25 cassette: the "gear steps " will be closer and you can press the 30t into action.
As an aside, the (triple) FD spec is for the optimum large to middle ring difference to be 10t.
Make the effort to be super clear about the 'problem'.
 
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