Trouble shifting after upgrade.

[adamfoul]

Hi, I’d like to start by saying I’m pretty new to road bikes, but have used a MTB for commuting, and I’m used to doing the basics such as cable changes, indexing and adjustment.
I’ve recently picked up a 2nd hand Specialized Allez sport, I think the 2011 version. I decided switch the shifters from the sora 3400 to 3500, as I didn’t like the thumb levers. Grabbed some 3500 shifters off eBay, and I’m having trouble with the front shifting.
Going up, it clicks once and the mech moves a little to the right, but not changing the gear, if I push it in again, the mech moves enough to shift into the top ring, but there is no click, and letting go of the lever the mech moves back again and it drops into the lower ring. I’m confident it’s not too much cable tension, as it won’t ‘click’ even with very low, or no tension at all on the cable.
Is there something I’m missing? Or is it likely a problem with the shifter itself?
Any help much appreciated.

Video showing problem. (I know the shift is clunky, derailleur cage needs adjusting slightly)

 

[Shearwater Missile]

In my experience it could possibly be just cable tension. If you push the lever to the large chainwheel position and then pull on the cable manually( assuming exposed cables) you should see it move further, from what you are saying. All you need to do is adjust the barrel adjuster on the down cable on the frame. If you can`t get enough adjustment with that then you will need to pull more cable through at the clamp on the FD. If it was OK with the old shifters then I would say it is unlikely to be stop adjustment. Hope this helps.

 

[boydj]

Having just replaced the 105 front mech on my bike, what I have found is :
1. The height of the mech need to be as low as possible while allowing it to clear the big ring on the upshift.
2. The angle of the mech should be roughly parallel with the large ring. It can be set slightly off the parallel to fine-tune the shifting
3. the adjustment screw for the low setting should just low enough to move the chain off the big ring.
4. cable tension should be good and tight when the chain is on the small ring.

3 and 4 are aimed at maximising the movement of the mech when shifting. There can be a bit of trial and error before the best result is achieved.

 

[Spiderweb]

The first click will be the ‘trim’ function but it then should click into place on the second movement of the lever. Too much cable tension was my first thought but you have explored this too. It could be the limit screw not allowing the mech to move fully over and hold its position?
My only other thought is that if the shifter isn’t new then it could be faulty?

 

[adamfoul]

Thanks for the replies guys. After fiddling for a bit longer I think it must be the shifter that’s faulty. There is definitely enough movement in the mech, as it was fine before, and also can be manually pulled. I’ve been watching Park Tool videos, and even bought a cable puller tool to help play around with different tensions. Whatever I do, the lever makes the shift when held in, but never clicks into place. I’ve put the old one back on and got it working no problem. Guess I’ll have to get onto eBay for a refund.

 

[Shearwater Missile]

Thanks for the replies guys. After fiddling for a bit longer I think it must be the shifter that’s faulty. There is definitely enough movement in the mech, as it was fine before, and also can be manually pulled. I’ve been watching Park Tool videos, and even bought a cable puller tool to help play around with different tensions. Whatever I do, the lever makes the shift when held in, but never clicks into place. I’ve put the old one back on and got it working no problem. Guess I’ll have to get onto eBay for a refund.

Glad you found out what it was. Of course we were assuming that the replacement was working !